Been doing the rounds in a concerted effort to bag a small, auto 4x4 before M's Golf looses all value (basically in 6 months when the ticket runs out!)
What are your must follow tips for a buyers checklist?
Paperwork
Save a copy of the advert to your PC, keep this even after buying. You'll need it to prove any "not as described" claims. Print off a copy, which normally has a handy map and for reference when you view.
If doing an HPI check, done via the RAC saves £5. Follow their paperwork checklist (contains things like v5 watermark etc). Beware there is no protection if the price you pay is 30% under their (inflated in my experience?) market valuation.
The Car
Ask for the car to be moved if there isn't good light.
When the car is being started, stand with a view of the exhaust, but watch the driver as he starts it for any odd routines required (open rear pass door if you have to), then look immediately at the exhaust emissions. Check the ground the car was on once moved for leaks.
The Test Drive
I normally ask the seller to drive out and me to drive back. It's easier to pick things out to investigate once you're driving it.
Beware of being kept talking, distracting you from the job at hand.
On return, park on clean, light coloured ground if possible and before stopping the engine, check the exhaust for steam. Listen under the bonnet for odd noises. Try out all the features you've not had a chance to - don't forget the rear elec windows or the rear window wiper. Check for leaks underneath again and in the engine bay.
The Purchase
Paying by credit card offers extra protection (section 75), even if you clear the balance before your next statement.
After very nearly bagging a Grand Vitara, it looks like a 3 door Rav4 is the new favourite. This is more hassle than moving house :-)
EDIT: been playing with my response to the "so what do you work as?" question. "Training to be a doctor" makes their eyes light up most. "Work in a lawyers office, i really like it" causes problems.
Last edited by: Skoda on Wed 24 Aug 11 at 18:34
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Fundamentally disagree with your routine.
You MUST sit in the driver's seat - before anyone starts it up - and switch on the ignition and check all the warning lights work:
specifically Engine Warning Light
and ABS light.
Then check there is an Oil Warning Light.
THEN start the engine:
All three lights should go out.. the Oil Warning Light at once.
If those three do not come on, the bulbs have been removed to hide problems.. Run Away time . Period. A thieving lying cheating illegitimate seller.
Fiddling the electronic warnings hides £1000s problems...
Last edited by: madf on Wed 24 Aug 11 at 19:08
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I would check the temperature of the bonnet before getting in the car.
Has the engine been warmed up for your visit. If so Why?
Feet OFF before turning starting the engine.
No need for revs at start up.
How do you know what other lights should show pre start up ?
Why cannot life be simple ??
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>> How do you know what other lights should show pre start?
That's a pain, normally something on t'internet no matter what you're after. No help when you get a light you've never seen before though! How do you search for a picture of a man with bad hair? (axle oil temp warning)
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>> If those three do not come on, the bulbs have been removed to hide problems..
>> Run Away time . Period. A thieving lying cheating illegitimate seller.
>>
Sounds like you might be speaking from (bitter) experience?
It was only about a year after I bought my Focus that I noticed from the service book that it didn't even originate from this country :)
Not been a problem so far, fortunately.
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>> You MUST sit in the driver's seat - before anyone starts it up
Hmmm, see I leave that till later. On the test drive when you change seats (check for warm starting problems). Reason is I want to see and hear it started from stone cold.
Say for example the secondary air system's pump is on the way out, you're not going to hear it from the cabin but you'll smell it and maybe hear it from the exhaust. Once the cars been started, it might not need to come on again if it's warmed up. Opportunity to haggle missed.
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I've bought 40+ cars and vans over the years (inc. new) I've also road tested nigh-on 10,000 cars for my work,
Sometimes I can weigh up a car and it's owner without even lifting the bonnet,
What I do like to see is service history, ideally from a pain dealer, vehicle in a cared for condition,
Oh, and a decent set of tyres, all the same make ideally - it shows they care,
And - check to see if the oil is nice and clean.
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>> service history, ideally from a pain dealer,
>>
Freudian Slip?
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>> check to see if the oil is nice and clean.
>>
Not relevant if it's a diesel.
Last edited by: Boxsterboy on Wed 24 Aug 11 at 21:42
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Simples.
Buy off a good friend.
I have done this several times over the past 30+ years and always got a beauty.
They reap the benefits of not having a p/ex so will let you have it at a knockdown price. And you know the history. Several good friends, with nice cars which I would happily have bought, have resolutely refused to sell to me as the car was not 100%.
Maybe I just have jolly nice friends.
Lucky me.
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Buying a car off /selling to friends is a very easy way to loose them.
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Totally disagree Zero.
Truly good friends would never sell me anything that had a hint of going wrong. And if it did, it would be accepted gracefully with no repercussions.
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your friends might be reliable, but unknowingly their car may not be so.
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I must have just been lucky then.
From memory, and in date order, these are a Mk 1 Golf Gti, Audi 80 Sport, G reg Audi UrQuattro, M reg E200 estate, R reg C180 estate, N & T plate Legacy estates, '03 Lexus IS Sportcross.
None of the above ever missed a beat.
Or maybe I just have good taste in cars (firmly TIC)
Oh, and a D reg 520 (from my ex MIL)
Last edited by: legacylad on Wed 24 Aug 11 at 22:37
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>>Not relevant if it's a diesel<<
de acuerdo.
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Buying Checklist - madf
