Couple of bits needed for our 10yo/135k miles Berlingo.
Last time we had tyres replaced the security bolt broke rendering the alloy wheel key u/s as there's a chunk of bolt solidly wedged in it. Tyre place sourced/provided ordinary (ie non security) bolts - these are on the front.
We have security bolts at the rear but no key.
Local Cit dealer wants £180 to supply four new security bolts and a key.
Ordered 2 non security bolts and (hopefully) I can get the old ones out - plenty of stuff on you tube etc about how to do this. If somebody actually nicks my 10yo 'well used' alloys I'll have to live with it. Not even in Liverpool where my son lives...
The plip key no longer works as a plip but it's fine in the lock on the door/ignition.
Same dealer quotes £350 to replace and programme plip.
Mrs B ain't happy but accepts we'll do what out father's did and go out in our slippers to check the bloomin thing's locked last thing.
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I think I paid 20 quid or so to take off the security bolt that last rounded. I usually bin them though, when did anyone last see a car up on jacks with wheels robbed?
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Yes, I think security bolts are an annoying legacy from the days when alloys on a car was something special. Now it's rare NOT to have alloys, and I doubt that a stolen alloy is worth much down the pub.
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>> when did anyone last see a car up on jacks with wheels robbed?
Given the price of tyres these days, it's a wonder that wheels aren't stolen much anymore.
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>> Given the price of tyres these days, it's a wonder that wheels aren't stolen much
>> anymore.
Nah, too much variation in wheel styles, fitments and tyre sizes. Not like a joint of meat that can be flogged down the pub.
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>>
>>
>> Given the price of tyres these days, it's a wonder that wheels aren't stolen much
>> anymore.
>>
Used tyres have no value. When we ran a couple of Peugeot 106 motors as tuition vehicles they had the spares in cradles underneath the car. Both were sprung open one night and Mrs O'Reliants unused spare was taken but mine, even with very little wear on it was left on the drive.
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Buy a new keyfob plus gubbins off the bay and I think there's a dance you can go through to get the car to accept it without taking it to a dealer.
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>> I think there's a dance you can go through to get the car to accept it
Hokey cokey?
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A bit of Googling turned up an outfit in MK who can do me a key for £125.
www.thekeylab.co.uk/citroen-car-keys/
That, I can live with.
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A bit of googling reveals that for a 2014 Berlingo all you have to do is turn the ignition on while holding one of the keyfob buttons for 10seconds.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJRmhFw7NnM
£20 for a new keyfob.
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>> A bit of googling reveals that for a 2014 Berlingo all you have to do
>> is turn the ignition on while holding one of the keyfob buttons for 10seconds.
>>
>> www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJRmhFw7NnM
>>
>> £20 for a new keyfob.
Does that work with any fob or is it just to resynch one that's been paired but had a moment - eg loss of battery?
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you can get you key repaired for 30-40 quid - postal service.
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>Does that work with any fob....
Don't know. Isn't there a Berlingo/Citroen forum that you could search?
If it was me. I'd just take the chance and buy a new keyfob from ebay and then try sync'ing it. Looks like they're only about £10 with free postage so must be worth giving it a go. You could have it by Mon/Tues.
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Check out Youtube. You may have to retrieve a chip which is buried in a corner of the inside of the fob.
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Ebay - new casing can solve lots of issues.
A son has bought 3 over the years - IIRC 1 x Lexus & 2 x Toyota.
Transfer the blade & the electronics, new battery and a bit of time worked for him.
In total he spent some £20 in total as against hundreds for a new key.
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>> Don't know. Isn't there a Berlingo/Citroen forum that you could search?
Berlingo forum suggests new keys need to be programmed to the car with all keys for the car present, otherwise the ones not 'rehashed' will stop working.
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Yes, there are 2 separate functions in the key - the locking and the immobiliser. The locking function can be resynched using the press the button whilst the ignition is on method; the immobiliser however needs a diagnostic computer, and the security code from the card that should have come with the car when new - and as you say you need all the keys present, and re-program them all at the same time otherwise any not present keys will be deleted (although they can be re-introduced). Note that you CANNOT re-code a 2nd hand key. Not sure exactly where the chip is in these keys, sometimes they are in the blade, so it might be possible to buy one of the cheap shells, change over just the blade which will keep the immobiliser function, and then synch the locking part of the key. Otherwise as said there may be a small chip glued in somewhere that can be changed over.
Actually it looks like the immobiliser chip is on the board, so if the buttons are broken on the board, you will need a complete key, and have it programmed as above.
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Thanks Richard, that confirms what I'd read elsewhere ;-)
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That's how the system in my Chevy works. The chip for the immobiliser is in the key blade. The keyfob or it's guts can be swapped and re-synced because it only operates the locks, 'Where did I leave it flashers" and Panic alarm. Although I'm not sure how you'd manage to press the right button when you suddenly realize that you're heading into the scenery backwards.
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...I've just this afternoon repaired the key/fob for the 'van (Ducato).
The fob had a slight crack in the plastic from new, and it has got worse over time (and been superglued several times).
An eBay plastic 2-button fob allowed me to transfer both the pcb (which operates both the remote transmitter and the immobiliser transponder) and the existing key blade (one was supplied with the replacement, but it was a blank that would have needed cutting).
Though it needed a "lug" (which wasn't on the original) trimming, it all went together very well, and the remote works, whilst the immobiliser doesn't (if you get my drift). Job's a good 'un.
I suspect the Berlingo (3-Button Remote?) has a similar arrangement with the remote electronics and immobiliser transponder on a pcb. (Research indicates the latter is most likely not in the blade)
It seems Bromp's immobiliser bit is working, the question is, is the remote bit alright but "mechanically challenged", in which case it might be fixed by a cheap replacement case. If the pcb is borked, then things are rather more complicated.
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These electronic gizmos are all very well, but what on earth was wrong with the old method of putting the key in the lock and turning it?
Slightly more inconvenient but hardly a game changer and simple and cheap.
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>> These electronic gizmos are all very well, but what on earth was wrong with the
>> old method of putting the key in the lock and turning it?
>>
>> Slightly more inconvenient but hardly a game changer and simple and cheap.
>>
My current rental in Spain has a key you put in the ignition....Base model Corsa.
First rental for a while with the old type ignition. My preferred method of starting the car.
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>> These electronic gizmos are all very well, but what on earth was wrong with the
>> old method of putting the key in the lock and turning it?
>>
>> Slightly more inconvenient but hardly a game changer and simple and cheap.
>>
My Jimny still has this, and it’s a solid key as well, not a push in button, flippy, flick knive thingy.
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>> what on earth was wrong with the old method of putting the key in the lock and turning it?
Ne'er-do-wells would break the switch off the end of the lock barrel and start the car with a screwdriver. Insurance companies took a dim view of cars that allowed this.
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>> It seems Bromp's immobiliser bit is working, the question is, is the remote bit alright
>> but "mechanically challenged", in which case it might be fixed by a cheap replacement case.
>> If the pcb is borked, then things are rather more complicated.
We know the pcb is borked becuase that was the advice when we had it looked at last year - there was a thread here I think.
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Took it to key lab today expecting then to put new 'innards' in the old key and then plug in the do-dah and re-match it along with the other 'dumb' key.
In the end I was handed a new fob which does indeed work the plip. The old one was re-matched along with the dumb one so we've now got 2 keys and a spare again.
£125. I'm happy with that.
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Did it need a gizmo plugging into the car's OBD port? Don't forget to tell the 'lingo forum.
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>> Did it need a gizmo plugging into the car's OBD port? Don't forget to tell
>> the 'lingo forum.
It needed something beyond key in ignition and button pressing.
Which was what the 'lingo forum said.
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Still reasonable cost compared to dealer though.
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Shish.
The 'lingo needs a new resistor pack for the blower fan.
Video on the internet suggests that, other than requiring contortions in the footwell, it's an easy job and within my capability.
Euro Parts say they don't stock the part. Franchised dealer wants £63.26 which is a lot more than man on You Tube suggests....
Bristol Street won't give me the part number as doing so is against company policy!!
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..I've replaced a few in my time on different vehicles.
As long as there's access it's usually a simple job.
Not sure of your vehicle's year, but it's probably 648055.
Frankly, it's the sort of part I use eBay for (being a bit careful on the listings). You should find one much cheaper on there.
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>> Not sure of your vehicle's year, but it's probably 648055.
That's the one the guy on You Tube had and looks like the Valeo part on several spares dealers' websites.
>> Frankly, it's the sort of part I use eBay for (being a bit careful on
>> the listings). You should find one much cheaper on there.
I'm chary of buying stuff on the bay having had my fingers burned with a couple of radios that were not as described.
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>> Bristol Street won't give me the part number as doing so is against company policy!!
I guess the new "right to carry out your own repairs" only covers white goods, mobile phones, and other potential e-waste.
If you're contemplating replacing the part anyway, then remove it to see if it has a part No on it.
Last edited by: VxFan on Tue 23 Apr 24 at 13:23
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>> If you're contemplating replacing the part anyway, then remove it to see if it has
>> a part No on it.
GSF suggest there are several versions of the pack depending on manf date of the car, trim level and H&V fit - aircon etc. They were very good and were able to get into the dealer system where they could ID the part but I think getting the original out so I can say 'one like this' is probably the way to go.
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Thanks Kevin. I've was actually in that site a few minutes ago. The offers and images of the part seem to confirm the possibility of different parts for whatever reason.
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>> Shish.
>>
>> The 'lingo needs a new resistor pack for the blower fan.
>>
>>
>>
Is the entire resistor borked, or is it just the low speed setting that won't work?
If it's the latter then anyone with a bit of electronics know how and a soldering iron should be able to replace that particular resistor.
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>> Is the entire resistor borked, or is it just the low speed setting that won't
>> work?
Default as long as we've had it, ten years, is to put the fan on speed 2 which, barring heavy duty demisting, was enough. That stopped working but for a while 1 & 3 were still OK.
Sometime last week it went to only 4 working which I think is diagnostic of the whole thing being borked.
Will know for sure after I've fitted the part I have on order.
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Cracking performance by the part supplier. Order logged at 13:57 yesterday. Delivered by Parcelforce at 10 this morning. Dispatch address is in Glasgow.
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>Delivered by Parcelforce at 10 this morning...
So, already fitted and working then.
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>> So, already fitted and working then.
I wish. I'm working today, currently trying to apply PIP criteria to a man with Schizophrenia. He also has cancer but I don't think the effect of that is where he will score points!!
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Working but not yet fitted.
Disconnected the old one and checked the fan works with the new one; it does.
Problem is getting the old one out. It's held in by a screw with a 5mm (I think) bolt head. Firstly I'd no 5mm socket or similar but got one in Halfords yesterday. Problem now is bringing it to bear on the screw due to latter's being sandwiched between the fan motor and the 'fly by wire' transducer in the accelerator.
I suspect I need a small 3/8 drive screwdriver and possibly slimline UJ. Another trip to Halfords or BQ. POssibly latter as Halfords have all that sort of kit locked up and you can only look at things with a staff member at your shoulder.
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Not get an open ended spanner on it?
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>> Not get an open ended spanner on it?
First thing I tried was a 'mavic' bike spanner but no room to sing it, not oven one nut flat!!
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I don't know what a mavic spanner is.
I guess a picture paints a thousand words. You'll have to take something off for access then?
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Mavic toolkits were a thing of my cycling youth. Various small spanners in light alloy together with tyre levers and sufficient for most running repairs . Sold in a compact rubber slip cover for stowage in the saddlebag's pocket. Precursor to the multi-tool devices of today.
Mrs B and I ended up with two or three between us.
Found a cheap set of small sockets including a 3/8 screwdriver type handle in BQ. Cheaper than anything specifc to the driver role.
Clicked earlier and now off to collect.
The rest of the stuff will be useful too.
Last edited by: Bromptonaut on Sat 27 Apr 24 at 10:21
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And all done.
Once I had the right tool including a suitably petite handle the pesky screw came out ok. Needed to be brutal with a long screwdriver though to get the borked one out. Badly cracked insulation etc; no wonder it gave up.
New one now in and running. Four proper fan speeds again.
Ended up working with my head in the footwell and feet up the back of the seat.
Couple of bits of trim to go back but that should be easy....
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"Ended up working with my head in the footwell and feet up the back of the seat."
Good job. Well done! Hot bath deserved. :)
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>> Good job. Well done! Hot bath deserved. :)
Oddity doing that is that you're upside down so, in relation to your position kneeling by the car and head in footwell, left and right are reversed.
Mrs B, wielding a torch on the passenger side, was heard through my right ear and assumed to be by the drivers door.
I was also trying to fit the resistor pack wrong way round 'cos the fixing screw was on the 'wrong' side.
Last edited by: Bromptonaut on Sat 27 Apr 24 at 17:13
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Head down looking at the clutch reminds me of this song
Warning VERY rude but exceedingly funny.
youtu.be/MXzaVOk_Ydk?si=jdXR5r3YKZ-aWRWD...
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>>Head down looking at the clutch reminds me of this song
I think they're still touring at the moment. Saw them in Northampton a few weeks ago. Don't know if it me or the acoustics of the theatre, but I couldn't follow the lyrics. Pity, because there were some new numbers.
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Indeed they are on their 40th anniversary tour and I have to say I have seen it twice as ,like you , I had trouble hearing the lyrics first time around as we booked late and were back row but one in Crawley.I also wear hearing aids.
Saw them again in Eastbourne in 10th row of stalls and much better sound. I have not laughed so much in a long time....the Congress theatre holds 1500 and was sold out.
You can always watch on You Tube to catch up with the lyrics.
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>> youtu.be/MXzaVOk_Ydk?si=jdXR5r3YKZ-aWRWD...
Thanks a million. You Tube sidebar sent me to a very funny song about the Menopause sung in the style of Bohemian Rhapsody.
Reminded me of a former colleague regaling the office with stories of how hot the place was....
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Post the last 8 digits of the VIN and I'll look it up.
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I'm sure you've found the part number but it might well be on the one you take out.
Autodoc sell them, I use them for service items. Their site is pretty good for finding the right bits and usually gives the manufacturer parts numbers in the detail.
www.autodoc.co.uk/spares-search?keyword=berlingo%20heater%20resistor%20pack&categories%5B%5D=2975
EDIT sorry just seen you've solved this long since.
Last edited by: Manatee on Tue 23 Apr 24 at 14:32
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Parts Cost - sooty123
