Finally had our kitchen done. Local firm(s) (Mrs B taught half of the blokes!) and now just finishing off. Couple of minor glitches, both plumbing related.
First of all the washer wouldn't work - no fill. DIY assessment concluded that anti siphon valve (to stop washing water being drawn back into mains) was u/s. Removed it and all OK since. Googling suggests it's a water regs requirement to have one but replacement isolaters on offer in B&Q don't include one. Modern washer that fills at top with electrically operated inlet valves that appear to default to shut.
Should I bother seeking out a replacement with anti syphon valve?
Other was radiator related. Had to drain down CH to fit new rad in kitchen. Obviously system needed bleeding with air trapped in 'usual suspect' upstairs rads. However one downstairs rad stayed cool. No air and while tepid at top cool at bottom. It's now gradually returned to normal.
I wasn't there at time and Mrs B didn't see but rad concerned is near patio door and has drain port so possible that's where they drained from. I'm thinking there's some sludge in the system that trapped in that rad during drain and has now returned to a suspension distributed around whole system.
Is that plausible?
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>> Should I bother seeking out a replacement with anti syphon valve?
Rebuilt my kitchen 10 years ago, plumbed and fitted the dishwasher myself, never had an anti syphon valve.
>> Other was radiator related.
>> Is that plausible?
Unlikely, sludge doesn't go into suspension, it settles out. what is likely is airlock in the pipework which has now cleared. Go round the house with another radiator bleeding.
Good way to kick an errant rad into life is to turn all the isolators off on the other, fire up the central heating, and the pressure to the errant rad will be increased, usually sorting it out pronto.
I have one of them lazy rads.
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If it's warm at the top, then it's not air in the rad.
Only getting a bit warm at the top means not enough hot water is getting into it.
Suggests a valve sticking almost closed, or a blockage - could be either incoming or outgoing.
Or it could be an airlock in that leg,
Shutting down all the other radiators may move an air lock - puts all of the pump pressure on to that leg.
Thermostatic valves sometimes stick. Remove the head and manipulate the little plunger until it frees off.
My advice is free, and worth what you paid for it!
8o)
Last edited by: neiltoo on Tue 11 Dec 18 at 14:15
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>>Remove the head and
clonk it gently with a hammer.
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is new rad an addition or bigger, then pump might struggle
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>> is new rad an addition or bigger, then pump might struggle
New rad is more of a heated towel rail. Old one was conventional double panel.
Given that cool rad is now warm, nay bloomin hot, I'm inclined to follow airlock theory.
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It is usually an airlock when a radiator is cold.
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Plumbing Question - Zero
