I put up an 8 x 6 shed on a level slabs base a few years back. I then put two wide shelves on the back wall for my camping gear, which is reasonably heavy but not outrageous.
Over the years the perspex windows had both broken so I popped to the glazier yesterday and he persuaded me that glass was a lot cheaper than perspex (well under half his price, not quite so dramatic on-line).
However it seems that the whole shed is leaning towards the door as the window holes are not square, and I can push the top of the shed a good inch or more into a more upright position.
This obviously gives me a problem replacing the perspex with glass (or even with perspex), and I suppose could have contributed to the perspex breaking in the first place, as it became part of the structure with pressures from two edges. I have managed to get one pane in but it is under stress and could probably hatter. The other is too far out to be able to put it in.
So what recommendations are there?
- I don't think some sort of corner bracket will be able to hold it in place
- I could shave down the window gap to allow me to put the glass in not under pressure
- I could try removing the stuff on the shelves but I think the damage is done (if that's what caused it)
- I could ask a mate who has amateur glass management skills ( and the right tools) to nibble off the offending bits of the glass sheets. This option only occurred to me as I was about to post, and seems the best option.
I can't easily access the side opposite the window or the back wall from the outside.
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Long piece of wood, diagonally corner to corner on the end without a door and on the side without a window.
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No doubt any minute now you'll be saying that you thought of that but don't think it'll work.
Sidekick, me.
Last edited by: No FM2R on Thu 7 May 15 at 14:46
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Hehe yeah I did post that but then removed it with a fuller update...
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Get some 25 x 50 mm battens and screw them to the inside of the side wall(s) as diagonal braces after getting the shed back to square.
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ATROSTBO, you will need (a) bit(s) of wood almost 10 feet long.
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That's sounding a bit costly, going back to the glazier and getting him to cut me some non-square perspex would be cheaper!!! (I think his price was about £30 for two perspex windows).
I'm also in some doubt that the movement is enough that I could pull it back using battens or suchlike. I was thinking more of metal corner joints but I really don't see that working either.
Also there isn't a lot inside the shed to be screwing stuff to - it was only a cheapy from B&Q.
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>>and getting him to cut me some non-square perspex would be cheaper!!!
Getting some industrial strength polythene and sticking it to the wood would probably be even cheaper. And not likely to crack.
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Full diagonals as NoFM says.... or shorter pieces cut to fit between the uprights on the same line as a single length would have taken. The latter is what I do as it is neater and doesn't intrude on shelves.
My usual budget shed ends up at £229 for the shed plus another £125 for a proper 18mm floor, strengthening and decent felt for the roof.
Mrs F always says why not get a better shed in the first place... women eh.. just don't understand.
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>> Also there isn't a lot inside the shed to be screwing stuff to - it
>> was only a cheapy from B&Q.
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Well done mate. You've answered your own question. 99% of 'bought in' sheds are carp. You can double their lifespan with a few mods when new (and erected on a firm and level base) but to be fair most of them are not fit for kindling. Trying to resurrect or to square up a lopsided jobby is futile in the scheme of things. Sorry, but pay cheap pay twice.
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Is it wonky because because some slabs have sunk, or because it has gone weak at the corners and some of the sides have shifted like a jointed parallelogram?
Either lever it up and insert slates etc to re-level the ground, or identify which sides are moving and fit a diagonal to restrain it. Obviously lever it straight plus a bit more before pinning the brace.
Diagonals don't need to be very thick - more like a batten will do. Or you can use a bit of metal like a steel shelf upright.
You obviously get the most rigidity from a corner to corner diagonal, but if there are things in the way, eg a window, then one from bottom corner to halfway up the other upright will do.
Or line a whole side with thin plywood.
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Thanks for the input all, I've been out for another look at it.
I took out all the stuff off the shelves but while it may have caused the problem, doing that didn't rectify it. Cliff, I believe the floor is still sound and the weight I've hung on the far end wall has pulled it out of true.
I think my only real problem is not being able to fit the windows, and while the size is nominally 24 x 24 some if that area is behind wood, so I can get my mate to cut off a 1" strip from each pane which I think could solve the problem.
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If you don't fix it properly by making it square (spirit level square) and then reinforcing it with diagonal braces it will get further out of square and you will have a bigger problem. Your shed, your choice.
Last edited by: Old Navy on Thu 7 May 15 at 16:09
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>>
>> I think my only real problem is not being able to fit the windows, and
>> while the size is nominally 24 x 24 some if that area is behind wood,
>> so I can get my mate to cut off a 1" strip from each pane
>> which I think could solve the problem.
>>
I've just assembled a new shed which is meant to be like that. The glass goes entirely behind the wood. You squirt a generous bead of silicone sealant and press the glass against it, securing with wooden battens. It's crude but seems to work well. It doesn't matter what size the glass is as long as it's bigger than the hole.
Your mistake I think was hanging the shelves on the wall instead of making something like a bookcase where the weight was vertically on the floor, with just a light tie at the top to stop it falling over.
Last edited by: Cliff Pope on Thu 7 May 15 at 21:35
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>> Or line a whole side with thin plywood.
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Not too thin cos it WILL warp.
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Burn it down & put in a claim
Only 6 months to wait
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>> Burn it down & put in a claim
>> Only 6 months to wait
Bobby's neighbour can oblige.
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Shed wonky - No FM2R
