Went there few years back in summer. Fascinating experience - the landscape feels like Mars rather than Earth :-)
Hire a car by all means. Be aware that sometimes you may not see another car for hundreds of miles! So make sure you have full tank of fuel. Outside towns fuel pumps are self-operated where you can pay by card only. In fact I didn't carry any local currency at all. Everywhere paid with cards.
Avoid gravel roads - unless you are hiring 4x4 and confident in driving them. These roads can be dangerous (sometimes your sat nav will guide you over gravel roads but you may find alternative - so always research routes before leaving hotel). If you have to drive over it, then stick below 30 MPH. I have seen cars spun and went to ditch in front of me. I travelled several feet after applying brake. Best avoided at all cost. You can travel to most popular destinations without driving on gravel roads (I most covered South & West - not much on East & North).
It is heaven for driving - miles after miles of empty roads with outstanding landscape. There are potholes in roads - so don't speed too much.
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