The Peugeot oil spec is clear enough but I am looking for knowledgeable advice about whether to continue to use 0-30 for our 1.2 Puretech 130 as originally recommended or 0-20 which I have seen recommended recently. Is this because newer engines now have slightly different components or tolerances? Or is this because it is thought to be better for older engines as well? Or another reason?
(PS note to site manager - the Peugeot 'make/model' drop down list does not contain model 2008).
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To be honest it could be either.
Berlingo #1 had a basic IDI diesel engine without a turbo. Last knockings of the XUD design in terms of the head and injection mechanism. At the date of manufacture 100% synthetic oil was a premium product and whatever was recommended was a few steps beyond the multigrades we used in cars in my youth.
Caught out when our local indy closed I took it to an In and Out place for and 'oil and filter' service and they really wanted to use full synthetic.
A forum specialising in PSA products might be a better bet. Is French Car Forum still going?
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>> Or another reason?
Climate. In colder climes like ours the thinner oil offers more protection at startup.
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My Astra has gone through three oil change specs since it left the factory. I use both the Shell and Comma oil checker websites to keep up to date. Stick your registration in and see what they say.
I wouldn't rely on a retailer site. ECP stuck with an out of date spec. for over a year, presumably because they had a warehouse full of it to shift. I guess lots of indies were sticking the old stuff in customers cars because that's what ECP supplied.
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0W-20 is Toyota's recommendation for mine, but from a Toyota forum it was apparent main dealers were using 5w-30 bulk oil and claiming it was recommended, or they were ignorant. Oil sites say 5W-30, but Toyota say it is acceptable, but use 0W-20 at the next oil change.
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>> >> Or another reason?
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>> Climate. In colder climes like ours the thinner oil offers more protection at startup.
Good point. And if the car in question is mainly used locally year round for modest distances, it might be optimal.
They are sometimes even branded 'economy oils' so I'm sure that's the driver, but there should be sufficient tolerance to go heavier or lighter. The MX-5 uses 0W-20 but the manual also shows 5W-30 covering exactly the same full temperature range. It isn't used much in winter but it does do longish distances on European holidays in the summer and gets flogged up Alps etc.,, so I put top quality 5W-30 in it. But I don't think it would really matter that much as long as it gets changed every year (about 6,000 miles). It's usually clean when it comes out.
I seem to remember Ford switching to 5W-30 for hydraulic tappets and people said they wouldn't work so well on 15W-40 etc. Garages seem to default to 5W-30 now. I usually take my own oil so I know what's in them.
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I think part of the reason for the switch to thinner oils is emissions related. Thinner oil means marginally better mpg and therefore a marginal reduction in tailpipe emissions. I do worry how much weight is given to the environmental arguments vs engine longevity.
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Good point Metropolis - thanks to all for comments. I'm far more interested in longevity than mpg, so I think I'll stick to 0-30 unless compelling evidence appears before its 40,000 mile change, which will be at least a year away as only 34k on the clock at present.
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>> I think part of the reason for the switch to thinner oils is emissions related. Thinner oil means marginally better mpg and therefore a marginal reduction in tailpipe emissions. I do worry how much weight is given to the environmental arguments vs engine longevity. >>
I agree, it's probably an attempt to get a very marginal benefit in MPG. On the downside, presumably the thinnest oils drain down the quickest, so after a few days the mating surfaces may be almost dry ?
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>> >> I think part of the reason for the switch to thinner oils is emissions
>> related. Thinner oil means marginally better mpg and therefore a marginal reduction in tailpipe emissions.
>> I do worry how much weight is given to the environmental arguments vs engine longevity.
With cheap mineral only oils then thinner could well create less protection at temperature.
With expensive fully enginered synthetic oils, its not a problem.
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My Swift recently had its first service, recommended oil is 0w16, thinnest I was aware of was 0w18!
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I've just bought some 0W-8 for the Mazda 2 Hybrid.
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>> I've just bought some 0W-8 for the Mazda 2 Hybrid.
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Wow! Pricey? Remember the days when gtx was hi-tech?
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>> Wow! Pricey? Remember the days when gtx was hi-tech?
Ha ha yes. They still don't put the spec on the container do they? The last time I saw some I couldn't even figure out if it was synthetic.
The 0W-8 wasn't very expensive. Motul 0W8 NGEN HYBRID 'FUEL ECONOMY' ENGINE OIL. It was about £40 for 4L. + 1L.
I usually buy Millers. The Outlander gets C3 Trident Professional 5W-30, about £28/5L., the MX-5 also gets C3 5W-30 but EE Nanodrive Performance which is £50/5L. £22 wasted, probably. Both are "synthetic".
The Outlander dilutes its oil with diesel anyway, and it comes out black as night.
Millers Oils is about half a mile from the house where I grew up so I have an irrational attachment to it!
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For another opinion you could try Opie Oils.
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Peugeot - 19 1.2 Puretech 130 - oil viscosity - Bromptonaut
