The scenario is, the light switch in the kitchen is a PITA for a disabled person I know to easily switch on/off.
Yes, with a lot of work it could be moved, but I thought an easier and cheaper solution would be just to fit a smart switch and ask Alexa to operate it instead.
There is no neutral feed to the switch, just live and earth. I have seen however that some smart switches don't need a neutral feed.
I've seen some on eBay for around £11, but are they a fire waiting to happen by dodgy Chinese build quality?
What are you guys/gals out there using, and are they reliable?
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I sold one a few weeks back as the back was too large to fit in a standard pattress. That was a Sonoff, which a lot of my automation equipment is. They are a massive outfit and their stuff is moderately priced (though positively cheap compared to some like Hue) and although there are always some scare stories around I've never had a bad experience with them. I have some unbranded stuff which if it works has been OK too but I've had compatibility problems with one or two bits.
Depending on the light type, why not just get a smart bulb? TP-Link ones seem pretty good, and my first ones were LIFX which are pricey but very good. Either way, easier to fit than a switch. If you don't need 16m colours the white TP-Link is £7 at the moment on Amazon. tinyurl.com/mt6m2rf2 . Coloured are a couple of quid more tinyurl.com/4w95f75v
Lastly I was clearing out the garage yesterday and found three motion sensor switches which replace and ordinary light switch unused. I did put them up on Freegle but then withdrew them as I suddenly thought of at least one and maybe all three myself (2 x loft and 1 x shed) - but if you fancy one of them send me your address. I don't really need all three. But they might switch off after 6 minutes, though maybe continued motion will keep them alive. Not unlike this one but the only one I'd taken fromthe box was a little yellowed tinyurl.com/4rprzthf
Last edited by: smokie on Sun 30 Jul 23 at 23:33
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Thanks, but the light in question is a fluorescent tube, so a smart bulb wouldn't be suitable.
There are long periods of non movement as well (eg, sat reading a magazine or newspaper, or just napping), so a motion sensor also wouldn't be suitable.
Perhaps I should have posted this in non motoring, as it appears not many people view this part of the forum, or simply don't have smart switches.
Last edited by: VxFan on Mon 31 Jul 23 at 11:08
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You can buy smart T8 LED tubes to replace a fluorescent starting from about £30. Alternatively you could replace the fluorescent fittings with LED battens and an IR remote which is what I've done in my garage.
Not all smart switches will work or are approved for fluorescent tube lighting because of the ballast so you'd need to be careful if you went down that route.
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I'm switching some under-cupboard fluorescent tubes with an old Sonoff Basic. I just cut the wiring and stuck it in inline. tinyurl.com/2x6k6bh7 But that needs live and neutral.
Being fluorescents they don't cost a lot to run so I have them on a schedule to come on at dusk and off again about 01:00am. Can use voice to switch the outside that time.
Sonoff also have small switches which don't need neutral but they are ZigBee not WiFi so you' need another controller for them.
I thought the replacement wall switches were rather expensive for my tinkering projects but it's probably exactly what you need, if they are not too deep to fit the pattress.
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The easiest and most convenient thing to do would be to replace the fluorescent tube fitting with a remote control led batten fitting. Available in lots of styles and prices up to about 50 quid.
Edit, and saving over 50% in electricity costs.
Last edited by: Zero on Mon 31 Jul 23 at 15:53
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>> replace the fluorescent tube fitting with a remote control led batten fitting.
Unfortunately the disabled person needs a zimmer frame to move around the bungalow. The existing light switch is ideally suited when entering the kitchen from outside, but not once inside the bungalow and then needs to go through to the hallway to other rooms. She has to first go into another room to put a light on, then come back to turn off the kitchen light. I thought the simplest solution was a voice activated light switch via Alexa. Mind you, saying that, I'm having trouble getting her to use Alexa at all. Originally purchased as another way of contacting someone should she fall when no one else is at home. This is a typical elderly person who won't wear their panic button pendant / wrist watch, despite having previous falls. Refuses to have CCTV indoors too, although reluctantly has accepted the one outside.
I suppose the other solution is to fix a bicycle light to the zimmer frame, but then she probably wouldn't use it to save flattening the batteries :)
Last edited by: VxFan on Tue 1 Aug 23 at 10:40
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What you want is one of these, as I'm sure alluded to above somewhere
tinyurl.com/mr3m2256
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It's a bungalow? So you can get to the wiring in the loft OK?
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>> What you want is one of these, as I'm sure alluded to above somewhere
>> tinyurl.com/mr3m2256
That is one possibility, but the light switch in question is right in the corner of the kitchen, and I'm not sure if a PIR would detect reliably. eg, coming into the kitchen from the hallway, the light switch is on the RH wall and might not detect movement early enough to put the light on.
>> It's a bungalow? So you can get to the wiring in the loft OK?
Yes and no. Loft is partially boarded, and also full of junk, like most lofts. Many years ago I tried dropping another 1.5mm twin and earth wire down the inner wall to the light switch so that I could fit a 2 gang switch. One switch for the kitchen light, and another switch for an outside light. Whoever channelled the wall out for the existing wiring didn't leave provision for further wiring to be added. That's why I thought of using a smart light switch that doesn't need a neutral feed.
I could put another switch by the hallway door, and run some trunking down the wall to it and then connect to the other switch via the strapper method, but have to be very careful not to upset the landlord with "unauthorised" modifications. Too costly to ask the landlord to get a sparky in to do it. Not to mention the tenancy agreement says that the tenant isn't even supposed to change a light bulb!
Last edited by: VxFan on Tue 1 Aug 23 at 13:37
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I guess that you might be better off with a 'delay-off' relay tucked into the fluorescent fitting.
Switch the light on at the switch and it stays on. Switch the light off and it waits x minutes before automatically switching the light off. A quick on and off again and it's lit for enough time to get wherever she wants to go.
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Recommendations for a smart light switch via Alexa - smokie