Bobby,
This is coming in instalments as there are a number of natural "phases", and some outcomes/answers might affect subsequent stages.
In your own time, no rush (and I'll be out walking for part of the day).
Early Preparation
- You're going to need your laptop asis for a while, so don't consider switching the HDD/SSD yet.
- Check your current program/application estate with the laptop asis - make a list of what is installed that you want/need on the new install, and think where you're going to get installation media/any product keys from. This will be your last (easy) chance.
- Do another quick check that you've got your data secure for re-installation (though the original HDD in the caddy will be a fallback for as long as it doesn't die)
- Decide whether you're happy with your top-level user folder in the new Windows being set in stone to the first 5 characters of your Microsoft Account ID (you can't safely change it later) - MS account is somewhat quicker/easier, but if you're really not happy there's a workaround to a "local" account required later in the process (which I can add, but only if you let me know now).
- Whatever, make sure you do know your Microsoft Account ID and Password (the one that your digital licence is linked to)
- Hit the Windows key, type "sysinfo" whilst the menu is there, select the "System Information" menu item, and using the resulting screen:
> confirm to yourself which Windows you have (Home vs Pro. You must clean install the same as you currently have)
> expand the "Components" tree, "Storage" then "IDE" and confirm you can see "AHCI" somewhere in the description in the fields there (probably Name and/or Manufacturer fields) It is almost certain to be there, but if not, it isn't best prepared for an SSD, and there is another step (not yet included) before starting Windows install - let me know if it isn't and we'll need a BIOS change before install.
- We need to check you can get into the boot menu. If it's messy or not as expected you might get delayed later.
> Bring the laptop up (if it isn't already) and then restart it using Windows power button options.
> Repeatedly hit F12 (or Fn + F12 if your keyboard requires) as it restarts to (try to) get the boot menu (you'll recognise it if it works!).
> (If that doesn't bring the boot menu, but boots into Windows, try again (restarting) a few times - timing is fairly critical - I hit the key(s) about every second from the moment I power on or the "restarting" message disappears).
> If/when you do get the boot menu, we've confirmed F12 works, and you can "Esc" out.
The next step was going to be to clean the SSD up, but the photo from last night shows it can be left until the installation process.
Once you're happy with the above, we'll download the installation files to a USB stick (next instalment - written but to be posted after we're happy with the above).
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I'm out walking. Whilst there are some answers that would be nice from the above, they don't affect the next phase, so here goes:
Clean Installation Files
We're now going to get the installation files onto a USB stick.
- Minimum 8GB USB Required (and any files already on it will be deleted/lost) - Insert it now
- Go to www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/home
- Choose Windows 10
- Click the "Download Tool Now" link
- Open/Run the downloaded Media Creation Tool
- Accept licence terms
- Select "Create Installation Media....... for another PC" (Yes, really - Another PC even if you're on your laptop)
- Select Language/Edition/Architecture. If you're on your laptop, they should be correctly populated, but check anyway (English (UK) Windows 10 64-bit (X64))
- Select USB Flash Drive
- Select/Confirm the correct USB flash drive letter
- Let it download and verify the installation data (takes time)
- when it confirms it is downloaded and verified, you can exit/finish the process and safely eject the USB
Once the USB is done, we'll move on to installation. It isn't particularly difficult, but it is quite interactive, most of it is fairly straightforward, but there are some key responses/decisions, and I need the answers from phase 1 before we go ahead.
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Cheers for this.
For various work reasons I won’t be able to look at it till this evening.
Will get back to you once I have read everything over etc.
Many thanks again.
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That's fine, Bobby.
It'll give me chance to write up install.
I've also changed my mind (after playing with my Lenovo), and we'll try to tidy the SSD before it gets swapped into the laptop. It increases the chances of automatically booting from USB without intervention when we get to install
I'll script it later, but it's short and only one more click than what you did to get the last screenshot you sent me, so simple.
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So, the one additional task before Install is to attempt to clean up the SSD now.
- USB Caddy with SSD plugged in
- Hit the windows key and type "diskma" whilst the Menu is displayed (no need to position cursor anywhere)
- Select the "Create and format hard disk partitions" menu item that appears.
- Maximise the disk management window that appears
- In the bottom half of the window, for the lower of the two disks (The 931.51GB one with a single 200MB "System_drv" partition and lots of unallocated spaces following) select the System_Drv partition, right click on it, and if it isn't greyed out, click "delete volume".
- Once done, or if it is greyed out, you can exit the window, but let me know if you managed to delete it. (if not, we can try again in install)
If it does work, we have a completely clean drive for install, and it may avoid some install-time boot intervention.
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...and ( I know this is getting a bit unstructured, but...) the Install instructions are now largely ready. They need some minor tweaking depending on the results of some of the preparatory work already documented.
Frankly, if we get an easy ride on the default boot from the install USB, they're pretty simple.
I'll finally tweak them when we're ready to go.
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Ok folks, apology for delay but this evening’s entertainment has arrived. Traffic was brutal and then the cast entrance at the side was locked and I had to queue with the minions at the public entrance but I’m here now.
Just to brush up on my notes and I’ll be with you shortly.
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- Check your current program/application estate with the laptop asis -
Not really sure what falls under this category but the only program I probably have that isn’t a freebie download is Microsoft Office. Bought about 5 years ago through a work place incentive price. Cant find any details about it. I also have various Atheros programs (Bluetooth, Comms Inc, WLAN Client Installation Prog) showing?
- Do another quick check that you've got your data secure for re-installation (though the original HDD in the caddy will be a fallback for as long as it doesn't die)
I have
- Decide whether you're happy with your top-level user folder in the new Windows being set in stone to the first 5 characters of your Microsoft Account ID (you can't safely change it later) - MS account is somewhat quicker/easier, but if you're really not happy there's a workaround to a "local" account required later in the process (which I can add, but only if you let me know now).
That’s fine
- Whatever, make sure you do know your Microsoft Account ID and Password (the one that your digital licence is linked to)
I have this
- Hit the Windows key, type "sysinfo" whilst the menu is there, select the "System Information" menu item, and using the resulting screen:
> confirm to yourself which Windows you have (Home vs Pro. You must clean install the same as you currently have)
Microsoft Windows 10 Home
> expand the "Components" tree, "Storage" then "IDE" and confirm you can see "AHCI" some
Intel (R) 7 Series Chipset Family SATA AHCI Controller
- We need to check you can get into the boot menu. If it's messy or not as expected you might get delayed later.
> Bring the laptop up (if it isn't already) and then restart it using Windows power button options.
> Repeatedly hit F12 (or Fn + F12 if your keyboard requires) as it restarts to (try to) get the boot menu (you'll recognise it if it works!).
I have a boot menu with 4 options HDD, DVD, USB HDD, PCI LAN
The next step was going to be to clean the SSD up, but the photo from last night shows it can be left until the installation process.
Once you're happy with the above, we'll download the installation files to a USB stick (next instalment - written but to be posted after we're happy with the above).
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Bobby,
if you're going to start now, I suggest we only do (at most) what's currently on the list already, then pause and leave the install for tomorrow (It will be a very late night otherwise).
You can also miss out the step
===
- We need to check you can get into the boot menu. If it's messy or not as expected you might get delayed later.
> Bring the laptop up (if it isn't already) and then restart it using Windows power button options.
> Repeatedly hit F12 (or Fn + F12 if your keyboard requires) as it restarts to (try to) get the boot menu (you'll recognise it if it works!).
> (If that doesn't bring the boot menu, but boots into Windows, try again (restarting) a few times - timing is fairly critical - I hit the key(s) about every second from the moment I power on or the "restarting" message disappears).
> If/when you do get the boot menu, we've confirmed F12 works, and you can "Esc" out.
===
...at this point it just means that, if we need it, we have to do it/test it at install time - but it will be right at the start of that anyway.
If you do want to test it out, do it right at the end - you shouldn't be able to break anything.
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Bobby,
You were too quick with the F12 boot thing ;-)
Everything looks good, with the exception of Office. You'll lose it with the clean install, and if you haven't got install media and keys then it's forget it/buy a new version/install the free LibreOffice (which is a pretty good alternative).
(the Office keys might be on the report from the software Mark recommended? If they are we'll come back to it, but you'll need to know exactly which version of Office - worth looking on the laptop now, as you're going to lose it shortly)
You'll lose the others, but I don't think they're critical.
Are the installation files from the Microsoft site, or from creating a recovery disk? (you mentioned the latter). Please be clear on the answer.
The deletion working is also good news.
That's all simplified things. I'll tweak the install instructions.
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- Once done, or if it is greyed out, you can exit the window, but let me know if you managed to delete it. (if not, we can try again in install)
It deleted and has left me with the 931.51 GB unallocated
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-We're now going to get the installation files onto a USB stick.
I already have this from the other night
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if you're going to start now, I suggest we only do (at most) what's currently on the list already, then pause and leave the install for tomorrow (It will be a very late night otherwise).
Thanks, think that is everything on this thread answered so happy to leave the main entertainment till tomorrow !
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You were moving faster than I expected, but I still think that's sensible, because the next move is mechanical (swapping the SSD in) and it's best not to rush it.
I'll post the tweaked install details later tonight, but (with the possible exception of the mechanical switch) I'd suggest you wait for me to be on the other end of the forum for the install, just in case.
I think you'll find the install easier than much of what's gone on to date.
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I'll post the tweaked install details later tonight, but (with the possible exception of the mechanical switch) I'd suggest you wait for me to be on the other end of the forum for the install, just in case.
I think you'll find the install easier than much of what's gone on to date
I have watched YouTube videos of switching the hard drive for my exact model and the physical mechanics side of it seems straight forward if that saves you some hassle?
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verything looks good, with the exception of Office. You'll lose it with the clean install, and if you haven't got install media and keys then it's forget it/buy a new version/install the free LibreOffice (which is a pretty good alternative.
I can live with that
(the Office keys might be on the report from the software Mark recommended? If they are we'll come back to it, but you'll need to know exactly which version of Office - worth looking on the laptop now, as you're going to lose it shortly)
Can you explain where I see that? I seem to have Word 2013 and Excel 2013
-Are the installation files from the Microsoft site, or from creating a recovery disk? (you mentioned the latter). Please be clear on the answer.
I downloaded files from Microsoft website as linked previously onto a USB. I also have recovery download from my laptop to another USB
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>>I have watched YouTube videos of switching the hard drive for my exact model and the physical >>mechanics side of it seems straight forward if that saves you some hassle?
I'm only going to link to the Lenovo manual for that (and still will). It provides straightforward advice, and I agree, it looks fairly simple, but shouldn't be rushed.
If you don't use Word and Excel at an expert level, then the current LibreOffice (with only a slight learning curve) is a good, free, full function package worth an initial try.
The fact you've got Word/Excel 2013 is probably enough knowledge - I don't know what keys Mark's recommended package revealed, or their location. If you've got the report, save it off somewhere just in case we need to come back to it. (I rather think LibreOffice should be the first resort, and particularly if you have no keys).
Yup, I went back and noted you had the Microsoft USB download - make sure that's the one you use for install (it is guaranteed to be very up-to-date).
I know you were a bit worried about drivers; you really shouldn't be. Win10 install is very good at resolving most, and I've no doubt that, in the unlikely event it has a few issues, they will be resolvable. Remember, you've been through an upgrade to Win10 on that machine, with (I hope) no problems.
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Yip Marks report shows I have Microsoft Office Professional Plus 2013 and the appropriate security key.
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We may or may not be able to find install media somewhere, but it isn't worth worrying about now. (We either will or won't, and there's nowt we can do about it).
Keep the report.
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Installation
I'm relaxed about you doing the SSD swap without me being "on-call", but would suggest the Install process is started when I'm available on the forum - I only need to fit that round the daily exercise.
Remember, your laptop is going to be unusable during this process, so have another device (or phone?) ready for reading the instructions/ taking you through the steps (or print them).
- Turn off the laptop
- Swap the HDD and SSD over (SSD to end up in the laptop - put the HDD on one side - in the caddy would be safe)
> Full instructions as per the Lenovo Manual link here www.mrmemory.co.uk/downloads/memory-configurations/114961.pdf (page 37 and on) to be carefully followed - as above, read it on your phone (or print it now) as you won't be able to use the laptop.
- With the laptop off, plug the Windows install USB in
- Put it on mains power
- Power up - if you're anything but unlucky it will boot to Windows installation USB automatically (give it a minute). If it does, skip the next bounded (====) section
====
- If instead it boots to a boot device menu, choose the USB device (should be obvious from the name) and skip the rest of this bounded section
- If it seems to hang, (give it a minute or two) we'll use the boot menu method you tested in the preparation phase.
- Power off and back on (laptop power button) whilst, as it powers, up repeatedly hitting F12 (or Fn + F12 if your keyboard requires). I hit the key(s) about every second from the moment I power on. You'll recognise the boot menu it if it works!.
- (If that doesn't bring the boot menu, turn off and try again a few times - timing is fairly critical)
- If/when it ultimately boots to a boot device menu, choose the USB device (should be obvious from the name).
====
The install process from here has varied over the years - I think this maps (pretty well) to the latest.
- At the first (currently displayed) Windows Install screen, check and confirm your language settings.
- Next Screen "Install Now"
- Accept the licence terms
- For the Activation Screen, click "I don't have a Product Key" (We'll activate later)
- Choose Windows 10 Home (it has to be the version that was previously installed for licence reasons, and, on the offchance it offers x64 or x32, you want x64)
- Click on "Custom Install Windows Only....."
- In "Where do you want to Install Windows?"
>Check all the disk space is shown as "unallocated" (after the deletion you did it should be so)
>But ....If there is/are partitions there, select and delete each one
>Click "New"
>It should default to presenting a size that is the full disk space, quick check of that, then "Apply"
> You should have two or more partitions created. Select the really big one (c930GB) if it isn't already selected by default, and click "next"
- It will churn away doing its final setup and personalisation - the prompts are good, but individual preferences make it impossible for me to script. Just follow the on-screen instructions BUT in advance note the few specific bits just below. It may reboot again several times.
=====
- It will want/need to connect to your network, so you will need your WiFi SSID & password
- The "Sign in With Microsoft" should use your Microsoft Account ID that is associated with your existing WIN10 licence
- I answer no to (or decline) any and all of the nags to share data in some way with Microsoft - your choice (and they can be adjusted later anyway).
====
Ultimately, after you've responded to all the prompts, and maybe an odd extra reboot, it should take you to your new home screen, and you have Windows back!
There are a few obvious post-installation checks to do (Activation Status, Driver Status, etc), but these aren't difficult, and I'll post those next after we've got here.
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Ok well tomorrow is Saturday so will involve a longish dog walk and then lunch so probably early afternoon at earliest but I can post once I have done the swap and await further instructions until you are available.
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Sounds good to me.
Morning (weather permitting) is my preferred exercise time at the moment.
If we get the install going, with a following wind you won't need (much) help.
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>> We may or may not be able to find install media somewhere, but it isn't
>> worth worrying about now. (We either will or won't, and there's nowt we can do
>> about it).
>>
>> Keep the report.
Fwiw you can. Though I'd still think about LibreOffice.
Last edited by: No FM2R on Fri 5 Mar 21 at 22:35
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Unless you are a power user with complicated macros, Libre Office is the way to go specially now Office has become so attached to cloud type function
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I'm running Windows 10 and still have and daily use Office 97, which doesn't have any cloudy bits. It's always done everything I've needed, and if/when this machine goes kaput and I have to start again, I'm hoping the CD of it I found the other day will reinstall.
I also see on eBay you can still pick up the CDs and (allegedly) a product key for buttons.
I did try Libre on a different machine a year or two ago and it didn't take long to fall over on a document that had been produced in Word. So I moved on. Maybe it's improved.
Last edited by: Crankcase on Sat 6 Mar 21 at 09:00
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Like you my office suite used to be Office 97 right up till about 2015, Used libre office (or its other forks) ever since but unlike you its fallen over nothing I threw at it since. I fully admit it might if it comes over some long arcane specialist document embedded with obscure tags, but on the other hand I know office 97 wont handle certain document formats, and never will.
Last edited by: Zero on Sat 6 Mar 21 at 09:09
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I'm trying to remember the Libre thing. I know it was on my sister in law's pc. And i remember it was to do with a piece for the local parish magazine, so probably pretty undemanding.
But I can't recall whether it came from someone with Word, and Libre rendered it wrong, or whether she wrote it in Libre and Word rendered it wrong.
Dunno, bit vague, and could have been finger trouble perhaps. But she's not complained since i swapped it out for Office, so that's a plus for me.
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I use Office365 (since the licence allows me to install on all machines in the family, it is rather better value than if it were on a single machine).
Having said that, I've put Libreoffice on a few machines in the family, tweaked the settings to make it more Microsoftish, (largely the saved file formats) and there have been no reported problems.
As Z says, there are some potential reported issues with more arcane use (particularly "Excel" I understand) but it should cope with even semi-professional use for 99.9% of users. (I made that number up!)
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Ah, that's 99.9% in Office, but 99.98999% in Libre...
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>> Ah, that's 99.9% in Office, but 99.98999% in Libre...
>>
...given Excel's past performance, a real 99.9% is more likely to be 99.98999% in Excel.
;-)
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Still using a copy of Office 2010 I acquired around 2011 when we still had kids at school so it's an Education version with some facilities, including Outlook, stripped out.
Been OK since I started WFH though there's little use other than saving transcripts of webchats and a couple of lists of 'snippets' for cutting pasting to email and useful links.
When I left the Civil Service in 2013 they'd only recently moved from Office 97 to 2007(?). We really struggled where people used later versions with docx format as we couldn't read them.
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>> But I can't recall whether it came from someone with Word, and Libre rendered it
>> wrong, or whether she wrote it in Libre and Word rendered it wrong.
Ah, the only difference of note really. Libre by default saves things in .odf format. Useable by no-one but an open office fork. Its ever so slightly irritating as it does that for all the functions, spreadsheet, words, charts, etc. So I save all my stuff made in open office in formats that mean something - basic ones, like .doc .xls .csv. etc.
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Yeah, as I said above - I change the save defaults (in the settings) to speak Microsoft.
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I used to like the last iteration of Lotus Symphony. In the blue place at one time we were banned from using MS office. unless we had a business case for external comms, and you had to internally purchase a license and put the cost on the project you were working on.
Of course all of us installed a copy of office using our current clients license, which stayed as was when moving clients and projects.
The one place you cant control an IT estate is in a company full of IT sperts and nerds.
Last edited by: Zero on Sat 6 Mar 21 at 10:06
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>> The one place you cant control an IT estate is in a company full of
>> IT sperts and nerds.
I had the joy and delight once of having to do an investigation into the twenty years worth of mail and documents of my boss, without telling him. There were something like one and a half million items to check for mentions of something, and it took days and days and days. Awkward, especially as I had to hide the process and just lie about what I was doing to his face whilst he was live on the system too. All was well in the end, luckily.
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Are laptop screws made of cheese?
One turn and the screw is rounded. Blast!
Not a good start.
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SSD now in place.
Laptop ready to go with the matinee performance.
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I'm strapped in, go for it.
Install USB plugged in (correct one please), mains power, turn on..... etc.
(wrong-sized screwdriver?)
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Ok will do..
The screwdriver that took the first screw out somehow didn’t want to do the second identical screw!
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>>The screwdriver that took the first screw out somehow didn't want to do the second identical screw!
Like it matters sat this moment, but I suspect that you will find your screwdriver was too pointy.
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Ok windows has done it’s process, WiFi set up, restarted and I now have a laptop back with Windows on it.
I have checked Windows update and security/activation and it is stating Win 10 is activated by a digital license so that sounds good.
I have added my Microsoft account details.
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Yay!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well done that man!
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Post-Installation Checks
Great - it should also be quite responsive off the SSD.
The activation status was going to be the first thing to check - I rather thought (given the existing association ) that it would happen automatically.
Next to check is the status of any drivers:
- Hit the Windows key, type "Device" and select the Device Manager menu item that appears
- Expand every part of the device tree looking for any yellow exclamation marks - they usually mean missing driver. If there are any, make a note of the device details, let us know, and we'll deal with any individually
- Remember that any drivers for peripherals if you have them, will also need to be restored down the line.
======
Once that's done, you're largely on your own now with a basic Windows setup. You'll need to (re-)add any desired applications, and get your data copied back on. (Remember, your User name for your top level folder might now be different, and you shouldn't try to change it).
Unless you use Edge (which in Win10 you now can't delete, but you can remove it from being default), I'd first get your Browser of choice on.
Then, I always add Adobe Reader (it won't be long before you want to read a PDF)
You'll also need to consider whether you want to try an Office 2013 install with your key (I haven't searched for an install file - I'm not sure how successful it will be) or perhaps try the free LibreOffice (which you can download from here www.libreoffice.org/download/download/), but if you do, make sure that you amend the default settings to be "Microsoft Office" oriented - you used to be able to specify during the install process, but it can be done in settings afterwards.
And, finally, as and when, if ever, you miss the ability to play Movie DVDs, there are a number of possible solutions, but downloading the (free) VLC player from here will add that capability (and the ability to play almost anything else!).
That should give you a good starting position, but if there are other issues, post, and I'm sure someone will (try to) help.
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>>You'll also need to consider whether you want to try an Office 2013 install with your key (I haven't searched for an install file - I'm not sure how successful it will be)
Frankly I would recommend you went the LibreOffice route. The only change you need to make is that it saves in a standard format rather than .odp, but that's it.
However, if you do want to go back to Office 2013 then I have managed to find a copy which I can upload if you wish.
Thing is, you'd be installing an outdated, unsupported old-fashioned application onto your nice new whizzy system.
The third option is an Office 365 subscription which comes with a ton of cloud storage as well. About £60 a year I think. This is only really worthwhile though if you use it a lot.
All in all, LibreOffice.
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Cheers.
Already installed Chrome for some familiarity!
Re DVD I previously used VLC as well so would just go down that road.
Re Office etc, I will have a play around later and see if any way of getting it back though I doubt it. Really only use excel and Word (occasionally)
Device manager - only issue seems to be under
Other devices-PCI Simple Communications Controller and Unknown device both have warnings.
Location for this is PCI bus 0, device 22, function 0 with a message saying there are no compatible drivers for this device.
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>>
>> Device manager - only issue seems to be under
>> Other devices-PCI Simple Communications Controller and Unknown device both have warnings.
>> Location for this is PCI bus 0, device 22, function 0 with a message saying
>> there are no compatible drivers for this device.
>>
....as you're up and running, it's unlikely to be immediately fatal (if at all).
Can you photo and dropbox it (I may then be a little while......!)
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>>Re Office etc, I will have a play around later and see if any way of getting it back though I doubt it. Really only use excel and Word (occasionally)
If you want it, then I will upload it and send you a link. You simply then download it, install it and enter your original key.
So to have it is no biggie if you want it. I happen to have an idle machine next to me, so if you do want it then I will quickly install it to check the file is ok and it all runs ok.
Which is no hassle, so if you want it just let me know.
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Cheers Mark if that is no hassle then please do that. I am not sure re original key though. The info I got from Belarc includes keys but also suggests it’s not the full key ? But could give it a try.
Failing that happy to go with libre.
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Bobby,
I'll test it now.
If you could email me that Belarc report I will work the key out. EMail address in my profile.
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>>If you could email me that Belarc report I will work the key out. EMail address in my profile.
Done
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>> >>If you could email me that Belarc report I will work the key out. EMail
>> address in my profile.
>>
>> Done
But not received.
Did you read the email address right? No_fm2r, not no-fm2r.
Failing that, could one of the mods please let Bobby know one of my other email addressed please, perhaps that will help.
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Whats a missing "r" between friends....... :)
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All the work you've done this week and you can't type an 'r'? I've got it now, and as I said in reply, I've got to pop out now so I'll get to it in a couple of hours.
M.
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I forgot to add, you should now have one very large C: drive. The rather confusing D: drive having been "disappeared".
Whilst the HDD was in a parlous state, if you're missing data from your other backups, or want to do research on what you had, until/unless it dies it will remain accessible if you put it in the caddy and read it. (I suspect it will prompt you to "take ownership" (you can) at various levels if you try, and if it's a big folder this can hang for a bit. (It's the NTFS security settings that won't initially recognise you as the current owner.)
In addition, you need to consider how much (if any) of the Lenovo "systemware" you want to put back on - the machine is unlikely to critically require any of it - I only re-installed Lenovo System Update on mine, it is little-used, and I don't think it looks like Lenovo are issuing much for your laptop now anyway.
And, if you want to keep abreast of what the SSD is doing, (It's an MX500 isn't it) you might want to download this, and install it:
uk.crucial.com/content/dam/crucial/support/storage-executive-win-64.zip
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I think your driver issue (or at least one if not both) is possibly the Intel Management Engine. (I've had this myself way back).
It won't be an issue (it's generally supporting remote, corporate management) but it is probably fixable and worth getting "clean" - I just need to find a/the driver that will work.
Dropbox photo will help.
Edit :(thanks, post crossed)
Don't worry, a fix isn't (time) critical.
And second edit : Not confirmed, but it looks very likely.
Last edited by: tyrednemotional on Sat 6 Mar 21 at 15:39
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Re C drive, I now have 906/930 GB and only that :)
Whilst it is still dry here I am going to try and get out and do some tidying in the garden - that process went remarkably well and delighted with the outcome!
Tonight when we are watching the Crown I will start to load up my own files from my backups and slowly get the PC customised to what I am used to.
Huge thanks to TnE, Mark and others who contributed (Zero hope you choke on your popcorn :) ).
Seriously, to someone like me who isnt that computer literate, it was very reassuring to have the step by step instructions for dummies. And very humbling that you guys are willing to spend your time on me in this way.
In fact to understand how computer literate I am, I just typed this message on my iphone forgetting that my laptop was sitting in front of my face fully operational now! Just been used to reading and posting on my phone whilst trying to run tests on the laptop!
You guys are stars!
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Happy to help, though TnE did by far and away the lion's share of the work.
>>Zero hope you choke on your popcorn :)
We are aligned in our dreams.
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>> Happy to help, though TnE did by far and away the lion's share of the
>> work.
>>
>> >>Zero hope you choke on your popcorn :)
>>
>> We are aligned in our dreams.
The sequel was, quite frankly, rubbish, seen more drama on gardeners question time.
It all could of course been avoided and as simple as it was then if..........
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>>
>> You guys are stars!
>>
Pleased to help Bobby. I enjoy playing computers, and it all helps to keep the grey matter alive. Doing it by medium of forum isn't the easiest, though ;-).
I know we failed, but I still think trying the clone was not a idea, as it would have got you back roughly how you were (which would have been a slightly better outcome for you). We only wasted a bit of time, proved that it wasn't going to work (rather than being left wondering whether it would have done) and you're in no worse position than if we'd gone straight for the clean install.
...and I've learnt how to overcome the problem of resizing intermediate partitions in Macrium (Very early on I alluded to the fact that I thought I'd had such issues before. I'm now convinced I did, cloned asis, and used Aomei Partition Manager to sort out the results after the event).
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Bobby,
As discussed before, There are no drivers published by Lenovo for Win10 for your machine.
That means that, to attempt to fix your driver issue, we need to go back to a Win8.1 driver and try it to see if it sticks.
There are two possible candidates for the G580 (there must have been two variants)
One is for model type 2189, or 20150 The other for 2689, or 20157
Can you check your machine for any evidence of such a number?
The text on my Lenovo is almost unreadable, being dark on dark, but I suspect, if you don't find it on the case, it might be on a label in the battery compartment, requiring removal of the battery.
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>> Bobby,
>>
>> As discussed before, There are no drivers published by Lenovo for Win10 for your machine.
>>
>> That means that, to attempt to fix your driver issue, we need to go back
>> to a Win8.1 driver and try it to see if it sticks.
It will be fine, if windows 10 says it cant find one it means two things 1/ its not vital and 2/ it cant overwrite it with another driver if you use the 8.1 version.
Edit, tho the driver might be in the optional windows updates which dont download and install by default
Last edited by: Zero on Sat 6 Mar 21 at 16:05
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TnE, mines is a G580 Model 2689
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Bobby,
download this
download.lenovo.com/consumer/mobiles/89me02wb.exe
and run it.
It's an 8.1 driver (the latest issued by Lenovo) so it may not install (I think it should).
If I'm right on diagnosis this should remove one, and probably both of your driver errors.
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Cheers - it has removed the first error but not the unknown device one?
Will we just leave and deal with it if I ever encounter a problem?
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clicking deatils of this unknown device, it tells me
Property - Device Instance Path
Value - ACPIVPC2004 if that means anything
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Thought it might be only one fixed.
As I say, Bobby, it won't be fatal. Do me another picture, I'd like to see the detail of what's changed. We're obviously on track and there's a good chance it's fixable.
Don't hang around after the picture, I'll post if/when I find a potential resolution, and we can try it as and when.
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>> clicking deatils of this unknown device, it tells me
>>
>> Property - Device Instance Path
>> Value - ACPIVPC2004 if that means anything
>>
>>
>>
yup, think I know what that is - working on it...... :-)
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Try this one Bobby (win 8.1 Energy/Power Management)
download.lenovo.com/consumer/mobiles/emw8180220.exe
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Thats sorted it!!
All errors gone
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Nipping down to Tesco just now - anyone got any advice on non stick, dishwasher safe oven roasting tins???? :)
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Zero can clone you one......
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No, no, no, buy a clean one.
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>> No, no, no, buy a clean one.
Xacly
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Bobby,
Just reviewing where we are, it all looks very good. Even the install was rather quicker than I expected (the result of it being to SSD I think)
It has struck me that, as the underlying user ID (an internal Windows registry value) on your new install is likely to be different to that on the old machine, restoring any data may throw you the googly already mentioned above.
Put simply, if you used a disk formatted as NTFS to take your backup(s), then the Windows permissions will have gone with them. (With the amount of data you've flagged, NTFS disk is a strong possibility). It therefore protects the data from you, as a "different" user, but users with admin rights (as the installer, you do) can "take ownership" when invited. You should do so if you get a prompt.
If you're working on a folder, it will then adjust the permissions for the folder AND everything underlying, and it can be quite unresponsive for large folders until it is finished - the files are then yours.
May not happen, but a strong possibility, and forewarned is forearmed.
(I've recently seen someone through this in only mildly differing circumstances)
It's a problem you don't often see, as lots of transfer between users happens on FAT32 devices (e.g. USB keys), and FAT32 can't handle, and therefore discards, the permissions.
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Ok I’ll look out for this and report back.
So far it’s been straightforward transferring my music and photos over.
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Well just to give an update and bring this to a close.
Windows loaded successfully and I have managed to transfer over all my files - music, phots documents etc.
Mark kindly offered to get me a download for the Office 2013 which I had on my previous disk. However it is confession time.......
I trailed through all my old emails and found the purchase for my Office 2013. I ocntacted microsoft help and eventuallly got talking to a human who asked me to send him a screenshot of my purchase email which I did.
He then said to me what happens if you click on the download link in the email.......... do'h!!
So thanks to Mark and TnE for all your help, hopefully, one day , this and the previous thread will maybe help someone with siilar issues.
Thanks again, I'm now away to make some spreadsheets for the hell of it!!
(and the SSD is so fast compared to the previous HDD)
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Bobby,
It might have taken some time, but it looks like a good result - glad I was able to help.
Simply to satisfy my curiosity (not to add you much value) can I ask you to quickly check a couple of easy things that will show how that laptop left Lenovo?
As you know, the original diagnosis was that you might have a SATAII 3Gbps controller, that would be entirely compatible, but not work to best advantage, with the SSD. (It is and was what it is, it wouldn't change any approach).
I checked further, and there was quite a bit of confusion on the web, with various opinions, but one seemingly informed person swore that it was a SATAIII 6Gbps controller, but that Lenovo were shipping them with SATAII disks.
That's fairly odd practice, but Lenovo's own specs contain the following for the storage option:
Up to 1TB [SATA II (SATA III compatible)] HDD storage - [320GB/500GB(5400rpm/7500rpm), 750GB(5400rpm)/1TB]
....which frankly doesn't help, as it can be interpreted every which way.
So, for no real reason other than being curious, if I (you) can find the answer, then I'd be grateful.
Absolutely in your own time, and don't bother if you don't want to, there's little advantage to you (except that HWINFO64 is an interesting and useful tool to have installed - for instance, we could have had an immediate second opinion on the status of your failing disk if you had had it).
It shouldn't take long, and doesn't do anything to your machine other than install the (read-only) utility.
=====
Download and install HWINFO64 from here:
www.sac.sk/download/utildiag/hwi_642.exe
Run it and follow the procedure in this write up to determine the controller speed:
www.nextofwindows.com/how-to-tell-the-storage-controller-is-sata-2-or-sata-3-on-windows
Your system values will, of course, be different to those shown in the above.
Do go through to the end, the first bit will immediately tell you your Crucial SSD is 6Gbps capable (which we know) but that is "only one end of the pipe"....
....the later step gives the controller capability at "the other end of the pipe". I think, being Intel, your "Bus" expansion will look quite a bit like the one in the link. The names reflect the chipsets, so you probably won't see "Sandy Bridge" or "Cougar Point", (maybe Ivy Bridge) but you should find one "SATA Controller" or "SATA AHCI Controller" in there (if not, expand each of the collapsed trees under BUS 0 and look again).
We simply need the "Interface Speed Supported" result from the RH pane, as described in the link.
====
I'm beginning to think it will be SATA 6Gbps (which would be nice) and if it is, I'd then like to check if they really were shipping with back-level disks.
So, if you've done the above, to finish off, can you either give me the model type and numbers from the failing(ed) disk: I can check the rated speed. It might actually be easier just to dropbox a photo of the label.
I'd not be entirely surprised to find it's an IBM or Hitachi/HGST Travelstar 750GB 5400rpm SATA 3Gbps (but what do I know?)
(and if you do get here, leave HWINFO64 installed and have a play - it's read-only and doesn't break things)
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TnE, I will have a look at this tonight.
Cheers again
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Thanks, I won't be upset if you don't, I'm just "in search of knowledge".
In the foregoing, I'm not sure if you ever installed Crucial Storage Executive (I gave the direct download link before, but details and download here):
uk.crucial.com/support/storage-executive
HWINFO64 will give a reasonable amount of information on the status of your SSD (in particular remaining life, as a %ge is of interest) but Storage Executive is tailored for your MX500, and will give other capabilities (including performance tweaks and checking for, and installing, firmware updates).
I'd certainly install it, and see what it says - though I'd avoid making any "recommended" changes without checking back ;-)
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TnE, apologies for delay in getting back to you - too much excitement of having my computer working again and being able to update my spreadsheets etc.
And, I have started the hellish task of tracking down my old pensions and trying to get information from various compnaies!
Anyway did this and it has reported
Interface Speed Supported - Gen3 6.0Gbps
Photo of the old disk www.dropbox.com/s/khexhedfzludfj8/IMG_5231.jpg?dl=0
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Thanks Bobby. Good to hear it's still working ;-)
None of it was critical, but I was intrigued by the apparent mismatch (which is now even more apparent).
The controller is indeed SATAIII, which is good news for you as it and your new SSD will play well together.
I was wrong about the hard drive model, but the other info I picked up appears to have been correct. That's down as a (fairly slow) SATAII model, which is rather surprising given the controller capability.
Anyhow, replacing with the SSD has given you at least two extra dimensions of speed - I would think that, in conjunction with a nicey, shiny new Win10 install, that will be noticeably more responsive.
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Very responsive indeed!
And of course, so much quicker to boot up as well!
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Lenovo G580 Clean Install - tyrednemotional
