We are going to replace the suite in the downstairs bog cloakroom. I guess once everything is out, you would want to replace the carpet with laminate before re-installing the pan ?
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I would fix the potty directly to the bare floor, whatever that it is.
Putting it on the floor covering could allow it to shift a little, even though the fixings would be straight through.
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Tip:- Don't get your hooter too close to the carpet when taking it out! :-)
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To put it as delicately as I can, depending on the ages and quality of aim of the male users of the facilities, I wouldn't put a carpet in a cloakroom! Roger has noted the problem too!
Last edited by: Meldrew on Mon 6 Feb 12 at 17:39
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Never mind their age and quality. Don't have a carpet in the bog, or the bathroom. Looks stupid and becomes squalid.
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Tiles are the future....!
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Another move, requested in some hotels, is that men should sit for all toilet functions. I still don't think a carpet is a good.
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>> Another move, requested in some hotels, is that men should sit for all toilet functions.
Even that may not solve the problem if the delivery system is lacking in length.
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The OP's question is about putting laminate down before reinstalling the new suite. He's not talking about putting carpet in.
I would think putting in the flooring before the toilet is easier but when you need to replace the laminate you need to take the toilet out again. And eventually the laminate will need replacing... so I'd put in tiles like PU suggests.
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And eventually the laminate will need replacing..
And Laminate will stain in the event of a water leak or worse.
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level the floor with marine ply, and then lay amtico.
You can do that first before you screw the bog down, the amtico will never need replacing.
Last edited by: Zero on Mon 6 Feb 12 at 18:24
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Tiles are the best bet, followed by good quality (thick) vinyl, anything else will absorb moisture. The vinyl can go down before the toilet is fitted and it only takes minutes to remove the toilet bowl if the flooring needs replacement.
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>>ages and quality of aim of the male users of the facilities<<
What aim?
If only they could point their penis as well as they point a dart for a treble twenty, us mere females wouldn't have half the work to do.
Pat
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If you sprinkle when you tinkle, be a sweetie and wipe the seatie ! (and the floor and the wall !)
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Being a Male I can honestly say that although I can identify with the problems mentioned, I dont suffer from them! - however this time of year I do find the bloomin water cold!! ;-)
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>> >>ages and quality of aim of the male users of the facilities<<
>>
>> What aim?
>>
>> If only they could point their penis as well as they point a dart for
>> a treble twenty, us mere females wouldn't have half the work to do.
I find the seat,. when its down, does a good job of channelling the flow
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>> >>ages and quality of aim of the male users of the facilities<<
>>
>> What aim?
>>
>> If only they could point their penis as well as they point a dart for
>> a treble twenty, us mere females wouldn't have half the work to do.
>>
>> Pat
..and the world's population would be rising at an even more frenetic rate!
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I know it doesn't answer your question but, on the subject of WCs ............
We had our WC replaced with a push button WC. When it's finished filling up the flow stops abruptly. This, coupled with the fact that the plumber (?) connected it up with a flexible connector which means that the inlet pipe is no longer rigid, makes the pipework rattle when the flow stops. My fear is that a soldered joint somewhere inaccessible may fail. When the weather gets better we're going to have the WC replaced again (by a different plumber) but this time with a traditional ballcock type. Moreover I shall insist that the inlet pipe is rigid or the plumber doesn't get the job.
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Our toilet fixed to the floor vinyl round it.
No carpet in bog room >:)
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Our toilet is bedded on a thin layer of plaster as per the instructions from the manufacturer. I fitted it over 15 yrs ago and there's been no problem.
Cushionfloor type stuff fitted professionally and sealed at the edges all round the room.
Ted
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>>We had our WC replaced with a push button WC. When it's finished filling up the flow stops abruptly.
>>
I recently replaced ours with a similar WC.
It has a quite complex plastic unit rather than the simple flush.
It also has a different type of unit that shuts off the input flow.
It is a plastic job ( not a Torbec) - I think is a French make. ( B& Q / Casterama)
This is where the problem is. Change that for a Torbeck and I think that will solve the problem.
>>....connected it up with a flexible connector which means that the inlet pipe is no longer rigid, makes the pipework rattle when the flow stops.
>>
As far as I am aware this is the normal /standard way of connecting not just loos but sinks, hand basins et al.
I am not sure you can get old fashioned loos any more due to low volume cisterns water saving etc. now required hence the dual flush
N.B I hope you have all the installation instructions.
On my loo the bezel around the flush button unscrews as you would expect.
I could not however screw it back in. After lots of head scratching and silent cursing.
RTFM !!. I needed to unscrew a plastic inner part prior to refitting the bezel.
So I would say do not blame the plumber but the valve maker.
A new valve is a simpler cheaper option which I too am intending to do.
( My water supply is from the tank not mains and it clonks)
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>> So I would say do not blame the plumber but the valve maker.
The pipes also rattle when the flow into the washing machine stops, so the basic problem is that parts of the pipework are no longer rigid.
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you could of course reduce the mains flow by tweaking the main stopcock down a bit
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>> you could of course reduce the mains flow by tweaking the main stopcock down a
>> bit
I've done that, as well as partially closing the shut-off valve at the inlet to the toilet, and the problem remains. I hate flexible connectors.
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Is there no way of tethering the connector, say with a cable tie or p-clip attached to something nearby?
Last edited by: VxFan on Tue 7 Feb 12 at 10:13
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>>the flow stops abruptly. This, coupled with the fact that the plumber (?) connected it up with a flexible connector which means that the inlet pipe is no longer rigid, makes the pipework rattle when the flow stops.
I think you'll find it's difficult locating a cistern that's still capable of taking an old-fashioned ball-valve, nearly all now seem to work on the Torbeck principle and that means a full-flow until an instant switch-off. I doubt if the flexible connecting pipe has anything to do with pipe hammer. The noise is likely to be from somewhere else in the system, as demonstrated by your washing machine.
I think Dave has done a recent plumbing course, he may be able to offer up to date advice.
As an aside, SWMBO complained she could hear the lavatory cistern ball-valve drip at night, so I replaced it with a Torbeck type valve. My water pressure's often high enough for a fine spray to be directed directly at the overflow which results in an occasional drip, which in this weather produces a lovely icicle. Looks like I'll have to fit an isolating valve so I can reduce the pressure.
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UK cisterns seem to favour fitting Torbeck but there are others.
All Cistern seem to be ( must be ?) low water content and tend to be taller than old ones so no room for the old simple ball valves.
I am investigating fitting a Varem potable water shock arrestor like this
www.boilerpartscenter.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=183
Lots of "info" on water hammer / shock arrestors on the web.
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>> I doubt if the flexible connecting pipe has anything
>> to do with pipe hammer. The noise is likely to be from somewhere else in
>> the system, as demonstrated by your washing machine.
I realise that the noise doesn't come from the connector itself, but fitting the connectors ~ one on the washbasin cold tap as well ~ in place of the original copper pipe has introduced flexibility into the pipe system which allows movement of the pipework at some point.
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>> Is there no way of tethering the connector, say with a cable tie or p-clip
>> attached to something nearby?
>>
It's not just the flexible connector to the toilet that's the problem ~ there's also a flexible connector on the wash basin taps, the cold one of which is fed from the mains. I've investigated tethering the connectors but there's no obvious way. The inlet pipe to the cold tap is about an inch from the wall. I'm guessing the problem is that the connectors and pipes move vertically, allowing pipes under the floor to vibrate. There was no problem until we had the new bathroom suite. It was fitted by a small company with a really poshly painted van advertising their "multi-trade skills", but I know for a fact that one of the workers doing the plumbing was an electrician.
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>> Get them back to fix it.
>>
Every workman has his standard, and what I got was his/their standard. I want rigid pipe (as I told them at the time) but they wouldn't do it. It was my job at work to supervise mechanical engineering fitters, and asking a shoddy worker to do something a second time invariably didn't result in an improvement. In fact sometimes the original fault was rectified but a second fault appeared. I want a proper plumber who is capable of making soldered joints in copper pipework. Flexible connectors are for DIY purposes and for lazy/unskilled people calling themselves plumbers.
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IMO it is not the flexible connection that is problem but the valve else there would be 10000s and 10000s also complaining as all washing machines and dish washers have flexible hoses.
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>> IMO it is not the flexible connection that is problem but the valve else there
>> would be 10000s and 10000s also complaining as all washing machines and dish washers have
>> flexible hoses.
>>
>>
It all depends on whether the pipework system will satisfactorily tolerate the introduction of a flexible connector, and mine obviously wouldn't. If the pipework isn't rigid then having an abrupt stoppage of the flow will inevitably cause the pipework to vibrate.
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These modern toilets are complicated arn't they?
Ours still have the ballcock system no problems touch wood.
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>> N.B I hope you have all the installation instructions.
There were no instructions with the toilet. I've looked on the lid of the cistern and I can see a screwed thing which has an arrow pointing to it saying "water level adjustment".
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>> As far as I am aware this is the normal /standard way of connecting not
>> just loos but sinks, hand basins et al.
Only by "plumbers" who can't be bothered to bend copper pipe and make soldered joints.
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Actually many new installations are now made in flexible plastic - for cold water, hot water, and heating. But to answer your problem, I think that the flexible is not the immediate cause. I think that the installation has resulted in the end of the rigid pipe becoming insufficiently restrained. The water hammer caused by the valve is allowed to move the pipe. Previously, the pipe was restrained at the connection - and anyway, ball valves are less likely to cause a problem, since they close more slowly.
I think that you merely need to clip the rigid pipe to the wall at the junction with the flexible connection.
hth
Last edited by: neiltoo on Tue 7 Feb 12 at 16:20
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The toilet flush in our recently acquired house came with a really basic device for controlling the egress of water out of the cistern and into the pan.
It is nothing more than a flap which lifts up by means of a chain attached to the handle.
Once the water has gone, the flap falls down onto the drain hole and water pressure keeps it shut.
One does, however, have to remember to move the handle back to the vertical once used, or the flap cannot fall to make the seal.
Simples!
(I may be getting a meerkat for house insurance via comparethemeerkat.com!) SAD, really!
Last edited by: Roger on Tue 7 Feb 12 at 16:40
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>> I think that the installation has resulted in the end of the
>> rigid pipe becoming insufficiently restrained. The water hammer caused by the valve is allowed to
>> move the pipe. Previously, the pipe was restrained at the connection - ..........
That's exactly what I meant, but I just couldn't fnd the right words.
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>> >> As far as I am aware this is the normal /standard way of connecting
>> not
>> >> just loos but sinks, hand basins et al.
>>
>> Only by "plumbers" who can't be bothered to bend copper pipe and make soldered joints.
Nope its an approved method and meets the building code. Nothing to do with cowboy plumbers. Its not their fault the rest of your existing plumbing is poorly installed. All those badly fitting pipe bends and soldered joints no doubt.
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Flexible armoured pipes are the norm in Spain.
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>>Nope its an approved method and meets the building code.
Only because nothing would get built these days if we had to rely on soldered joints...
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Solder joints to taps and valves put too much pressure and strain on the, these days, lightly made sanitary ware,
Last edited by: Zero on Tue 7 Feb 12 at 17:39
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Cloakroom (ha) question - Iffy
