Stripping down an ex-chapel bench (now a cracking solid garden bench) for painting. The wood's pine and I intend to Sadolin it back to it's original brown. The legs and back support is cast-iron - originally black painted it needs re-painting. Preparation quick rub down with a wire brush, wash down with white spirit and re-paint with smooth black Hammerite - will that work ?
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Should do.... but Hammerite can react badly with some other paints, so use a small test area first.
Don't forget to treat any rust areas with Kurust.
(Pine won't last very long in your wet Welsh garden BTW.)
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Despite what the Hammerite says I'd still be inclined to use some metal primer/undercoat - final coat always seems to go on better to a primed/undercoated surface.
Don't want fairly naff metal spoiling how good the pine is likely to turn out.
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I find normal Hammerite gives a longer lasting harder and sparklier finish than Smoothrite., on cast iron it should still like the proverbial.
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The Pine will be sealed in Sadolin....The wood must be nigh on a 100 years old and is solid, despite living out the last few winters and summers. I reckon it'll be OK. I may keep it in this winter anyway. Thanks. Go down the primer route I think. I had considered spraying it with Auto paint. Any views on that ?
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>>Despite what the Hammerite says I'd still be inclined to use some metal primer/undercoat - final coat always seems to go on better to a primed/undercoated surface.<<
Likewise, but i think i`d give it a goodly burning first with a blowlamp, back to clean metal, then prime and paint.
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If the metal bits can be separated from the wood have you considered professional bead blasting and powder coating, (similar to alloy wheels)?
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I have ON - I may in fact go down that road - I know a very good professional motorcycle painter - might be worth getting a price. It's a nice piece of furniture that deserves to be looked after, despite destined to live in the garden.
Coincidentally, just fitted cylinder guards to the GS - these protect the cylinders in case of a fall - they are fabricated in Aluminium and are self coloured - The bike is know as a Triple Black as it comes in three shades of black, the guards would look rather good in a flat black.....an unnecessary expense though.
Last edited by: R.P. on Thu 17 Nov 11 at 14:59
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Pine was used in Victorian wash stands and the like because it is resistant to water.
Sealed, it should last a lifetime, even outdoors.
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Hammerite, the original crackly finish looks good on cast iron. Get a blow torch on it, then the wire brush on the end of your power drill, spray with a car under coat, and then finish with crackly hammerite.
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I must say I'd be inclined to use Danish teak oil on the pine - easy to run over it every couple of years or so, without the need for stripping back. Mind you, I'm not sure which Sadolin product you envisage. (They do make a furniture oil.)
However, if the wood's been sealed, painted or varnished before teak oil won't penetrate enough to do the trick.
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Been varnished from new I would suspect. Re-painted it myself with Sadolin exterior wood paint a couple of years ago (maybe more) - Mrs RP has seen the post about the Blow Torch.....hmmmmm !
Run into a new problem - I think I got rid of my old imperial sockets and spanners....whoops !
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>> a couple of years ago (maybe more) - Mrs RP has seen the post about
>> the Blow Torch.....hmmmmm !
Its a man thing, she would never understand.
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She does, all too well.....
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Been there - got the T shirt.
I painted cast-iron bench legs with smooth black Hammerite about 5 years ago. It still looks lovely. About 2 years ago I pained another bench with Lidl's own German made black exterior metal paint. It's cracked up and peeling in less than 2 years. I'll be re-painting with Hammerite soon.
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Wire-brush. I then applied two coats separated by I think about 3 hours as I recall recommended on the tin.
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Thanks, I'll give that a go. Not trusted with a blow torch. :-(
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Get a man in. Usually cheaper in the long run...
:-)
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>> Thanks, I'll give that a go. Not trusted with a blow torch. :-(
Now you see, I do have the perfect marriage. Nicole bought me a superbly designed and made Dremmel blow torch for xmas one year. www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=152685
Came in its own high quality display tin.
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I used to have one of those blow torches on a stick but I've lost it. Great for weeds and things.
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Buried under the shed perhaps? it could extract fiery revenge for such carelessness.
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Used to use Hammerite on cast iron - a coat lasts approx 10 years.
Now use Aldi Metal Paint which is as good - and 1/3rd price.. and lasts - 10 years so far.
Tried out on approx 200 metres of 1800s cast iron railings...
I just wire brush to remove loose moss,rust and dirt and paint.. Mindless hours of work :-(
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I tried with LIDL paint for the same financial reason - disaster ! Shame as I'm usually a big fan of LIDL / Aldi products on the cost vs quality level.
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I've always been a fan of Sikkens paint & woodstain, failing that I'd go for ~
www.blackfriar.co.uk/decorative-paints
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Good tip Dog. I need to paint some galvanized gates before long (currently being made) to match existing, the old dark monk might be what I'm looking for...
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It's gonna have to be a post-curry turd colour - to match original :-)
See post "Painting Galvanized Gates" !
Last edited by: R.P. on Thu 17 Nov 11 at 20:39
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They certainly produce a vast range of coatings, they even do a white matt/silk paint that is totally resistant to mould growth.
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Certainly worth a look tomorrow - when I venture wide eyed and dogless into the big wide world !
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Not sure the hammerite is as good now, as they seem to have changed the solvent in it. It used to contain xylene, hence the 'knock your head off' fumes, the special thinners needed for brush cleaning, and the necessity to recoat within a certain time, otherwise it would all go funny.
Having said that, I used some a few years ago to paint some car wheels. I did a pretty shoddy job of cleaning them up first, and sprayed them. Most of the paint is still on them, and even the overspray on the tyres is still there.
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Another vote for using Hammerite instead of Smoothrite. The former seems more durable and lasts one hell of a lot longer.
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R.P.
I suggest you go to a proper builders' merchant paint counter and tell them what you want to do, as opposed to a DIY shed. You'll be amazed at the range of paints and their knowledge.
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I bet the wife wont trust you with paint either. Buy a new bench.
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Bet you only use it for your creme brulee!!! ;-)
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Pot of Hammerite smooth bought from an old fashioned Ironmongers...that wouldn't take debit cards !
Plan is to diassemble the bench (already partly done) bolts left with penetrating spray (not WD40 !) for the last couple of days - just need time in there now without having to supervise juniour - next week I fear as Mrs RP is on lates now and days next week. Will post before and after photos.
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Did you get the thinners/brush cleaner? It flows a bit better with a drop of the thinners in it.
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Ah, no I didn't - I was working on using single use brushes only - may need to pop to the shop again then...I saw some there though. Clean the leg stanchions up first - should be pleasant enough job.
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It was used on Tuesday on a small plumbing job, and used on Friday to char the peppers....
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"Did you get the thinners/brush cleaner? It flows a bit better with a drop of the thinners in it."
In an emergency I think nail varnish remover will do.
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Good Morning Rob,
Clean with meths. It doesn't leave a 'film', white spirit does. Don't know much about hammerite. Treat the wood with Osmo oil, there is nothing finer.
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Here's some snaps of the before - nowhere near the after yet though !
www.flickr.com/photos/67389469@N02/sets/72157628177546873/
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Finally got round to it. It was a pain in the backside sitting in the garage awaiting attention - Did the woodwork over the weekend, dried very quickly in the sun. The cast iron bits have been seen to and dried nicely, might give it a second coat though. Job number 410 sorted. Thanks all.
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