I've been putting off "repairing" the sealant between the shower tray and the tiles. One or two small gaps have opened up and it needs a little attention. Any hints & tips before I bodge it would be gratefully received.
Thanks,
JH
|
Cut out all the old sealant with a a sharp craft knife. I use one of those cheap ones that have a very long blade that you can break sections off.
I carefully use it with a lot of blade extended. This allows a better angle of attack and the blade does bend.
Use a caulk gun with the silicone sealant in a cartridge and try not to squirt too much out as you can always add more. A steady hand is needed as you work along the gap.
I have tried various tools to create " the correct profile" but I find a wet figure is ideal to shape the seal. Regular wetting the finger is required. Job done.
Just done a bath and a shower and am well pleased with the result.
The down side is a lot of silicone left and it does not keep for long. It does however make a good glue for some jobs.
|
As henry correctly says
i would only add that if you cut the tube on the end of the caulking gun stick at an angle that you can run along at comfortably then you can get a very nice manufacturers professional look
|
>> The down side is a lot of silicone left and it does not keep for long.
It will keep for a long time if you put a good gob of "car grease" on top of the hole in the cartridge before replacing the cap/nozzle. Clean it off (& squeeze some more sealant out) before using the sealant cartridge again!
|
Get it all out and replace it. When you replace it, use good quality masking tape to run along the edge of the path where you want the sealant to go, apply sealant, and use an implement such as the cleanly-cut end of a plastic pipe to smooth the sealant. The tool should sit on the very edge of the masking on each side (i.e. the tale should just toucg a quadrant of the implement). When you've finished tooling the sealant, remove the tape, pulling it cleanly off in a direction away from the body of the sealant. Practice on something first!
N.B. a great thick layer of sealant won't seal well, ter to use a thin layer if possible, buy packing out the gap if need be.
|
Thanks all, I'll get as much as I can out before I start then.
JH
|
I'll add that I give the cleared out gap a damn good cleaning with bleach or other mould removing product and let it dry thoroughly before applying the new bead.
If you watch a professional apply a new bead you'll see he 'pushes' the gun with the pointy edge of the nozzle leading, no need for masking tape. I've tried this way and once got a very good finish. I usually end up with the wet finger method. ;>)
I use a piece of cling film or plastic over the end of the tube with the nozzle screwed down onto it. The nozzle can be cleaned out later and the contents of the tube are sometimes fit for re-use.
I've seen a professional bang the tube down on it's base to draw what's in the nozzle back into the tube. He told me that leaves a skin on the inside of the nozzle rather than a plug and makes it easier to remove and then re-use the nozzle.
|
>>I use a piece of cling film or plastic over the end of the tube with the nozzle screwed down onto it. >>
I've been doing some similar work today in the shower unit, but I've always wrapped clear plastic film around the tip of the nozzle and secured it with an elastic band after use.
It works fine on subsequent reuse.
|
>> Get it all out and replace it.
Applying silicone sealant remover to the old sealant will soften it up and aid removal. It's available at most DIY shops/stores.
|
a handy tip in an emergency - if your sealant is damaged or missing or whatever and you haven't time to reseal it - apply brown parcel tape - the cheap stuff you get from a 99p shop, between the tile and the bath and it will prevent the water leaking through. It is so thin it will even follow the grooves in the grout!
Can make a bit of a racket if the shower is aiming at it but I have to confess many moons ago in my first ever flat, this kept us going for a good few weeks.....
|
One thing which does help with a bath, and presumably a shower tray too, is to load the container up when you apply new sealant and to leave it there until the sealant has dried/cured.
(plenty of water in the bath, for example, maybe some substantial weights in the shower tray).
That way it is less prone to breaking the sealant when you get in, and it all settles down by a few mm.
|
I tried that one L. What a mess! Takes talent I guess :-)
JH
|
dont get "most" of it out, get it all out. If left behind it will raise the new sealant off.
Snaily is right, the sealant remover works well.
make sure you get all soap and residue out of the area you want to seal.
FT is right, I use the masking tape method as well.
Use silicon sealant.
|
Never bothered with masking tape ,too much faffing about (or with remover.)
It is in a shower tray for **** sake. Once done whos eyeball is going to be close enought to notice any slight irregularity?
If it was a bath then that is a different view point :-)
The 99p outfits normally sell the craft knives with snapable blades.
|
OK Zero, ALL of it. I can understand that, the old stuff messes it up eh? Thanks for the tip.
JH
|
>> Applying silicone sealant remover to the old sealant will soften it up and aid removal.
Cutting most of it off and using a rag wet with petrol also shrivels the stuff up.
|
I would echo those that say use "Silicone Eater" available from Screwfix.
I would also say that you need to use a good quality silicone for the new seal as there are good and not so good.
Good are Dow Corning and Mapei.
Forget the rag with petrol, it could have dire consequences !
|
>> Forget the rag with petrol it could have dire consequences !
People, especially in a "car" forum, should actually be aware of this.
|
It is an art. Some days I have it (partially) and some days not. Silicon eater releases the grip, doesn't 'eat' the silicon. It's all a pain in the backside tbh. If you do manage to get the old stuff clear then ensure that all grease is removed from the surface to be sealed. Mentholated Spirits is the 'cleaner' of choice, but as I write I am unsure if there are any effects on 'Plastic' baths. I think not, but don't quote me. Use Sanitary silicon only. Dow Corning safe bet. £5.00 tube max as retail, but they all try it on £££ wise.
New installations now can be undertaken without silicon if you know what you're doing. Send $$ in a plain brown envelope for full destructions!!
M
|
>>Use Sanitary silicon only. Dow Corning safe bet. £5.00 tube max as retail,
>>
I too used Dow Corning rather than any 99p stufff... BUT...
The stuff I used was "Dow 785 Acetoxy Silicone Mildew Resistant"
No price tag left on it but Ebay, generally fairly inexpensive, says cheapest £6.86 plus pp
Is there a cheaper Dow varient around?
|
>>It is an art. Some days I have it (partially) and some days not.
I'm heartened by your post Martin. I thought it was just me.
>>Is there a cheaper Dow varient around?
Screwfix have Dow 785 for £4.89
My only other tip is that if a wet finger drags the silicone then try some Fairy Liquid in the water or even neat Fairy.
|
>> >> Forget the rag with petrol it could have dire consequences !
>>
>> People especially in a "car" forum should actually be aware of this.
>>
Molotov would be a good username FT. Wadder ya fink?
|
|
Maybe - making things out of bottles, light bulbs, varoius innocuous looking containers can be fun!
|
and we're close to the season when they may come in useful :-)
Incidentally, thanks again one & all.
JH
|
repairing bathroom sealant - henry k
