As per other thread, decorating daughter's lounge in her absence. Two issues have arisen.
1) Ideal Isar HE24 boiler - heating is fine, taps only providing lukewarm water. Research suggests divertor valve may be faulty. I am reasonably competent but no expert, it looks reasoanbly easy from the diagrams here www.idealheating.com/downloads/manuals/203319_inst.pdf - should I take the risk? In my mind a) diagnosis may be faulty and 2) might run into something which blows me up.
This (and other ) threads led me to the conclusion I've reached. www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=116333
2) There was a fancy light fitting with fan in the lounge, which I've now (accidentally) broken but wasn't required anyway. Light and fan were by on/off cords on unit. Ussual wires in the ceiling, but a bypass wire from live to switch in light unit.
The light switch for the room appears to have live on both sides of the switch (I don't just mean red wire, I mean Ouch!). That isn't right, I know, but where do I go from here? Continuity testing? It's probably something very easy but I am not too hot with the theory of circuitry.
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re 1
yes its the diverter valve, it usually is on those type of boilers, - yes its diy capabable and no you wont blow yourself up.
re light switch
you sure its "live" on both sides, could be a floating neutral from the fan thing?
How many wires to the switch?
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Thanks re 1. Seems I can activate the valve manually, which may clear it.
2. There are two wires to the switch - both red coloured, both show live on a mains tester. The ceiling rose has 3 live, 2 neutral and earths. At the ceiling only 1 of the lives is really live all the time - the others go into the same connectors to make them live. I need to faff around with it again to be sure I am giving right info but that's how I remember it last week, when I had my Delboy moment with the light fitting...
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btw the wall switch played no part in activating/de-activating the centre light.
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>> btw the wall switch played no part in activating/de-activating the centre light.
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this is how a standard light switch is wired
2wayswitch.com/simple-circuit-diagram-for-a-lighting-point/
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I have a live at the ceiling which does not go on or off via the switch.
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Oops, quick comparison to another one, and I've wired the rose wrong. Will attack this when I've finished painting the ceiling.
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Couldn't wait, light now working to spec... Thanks for assistance.
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What you normally do is loop the ring in and out of the ceiling rose / JB, then take a T&E down to the light switch, with red (or brown) being permanent live off the JB, and use the black (or blue) to feed the switched live back to the 'live' side of the fitting. It sounds like they've used red in both sides of the wire to the switch, and then becuase they've bridged it out at the light fitting to get it perm live for the pull switches you've got live on both sides of the switch wires. You need to figure out which of the wires is the lighting ring, and the switch wires, then wire it as above to get live on only one side of the switch. If this doesn't tally then you'll need to trace the wires back somehow to figure out what's going. Or fit a new fan unit and copy the wiring to save any embarassment!
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>> What you normally do is loop the ring in and out of the ceiling rose
Ah, that's what you do. The last time I bougt a ceiling rose the shop assistant asked me if I wanted it with a lupin!
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Yes it's almost certainly the diverter valve. And it requires you to undo three joints, replace item, replace washers (come in box with new valve) and redo the joints. Will cost you £150 probably, so do lots of googling for the cheapest source.
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Is that joints as in soldered? I'm not up to that... and I've not got my full toolkit with me anyway - quite a bit, but no blowtorch... :-)
I thought I read last night that Plumb Centre have a non-Honeywell which fits and is more reliable. Think they said £90 ish.
There also seems an option to replace part of, rather than the whole valve. No idea meself, but I am going to look it over tomorrow and see what's what. Apparently manually operating it may clear it.
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Yes it sounds very much like the diverter valve, in fact I have just replaced a relative's which was displaying the same problem except his was a Worcester 230.
The best and cheapest place to obtain one of these is here.
www.bes.co.uk/
Put diverter valve in their search box.
Total price for mine complete with new fibre washers and micro switch assembly, a grand total of £34.22 including VAT and next day delivery.
Everywhere else wanted nearly £100 for the same part.
Oh and by the way, if you order ove the telephone, they may ask you if you are gas registered.
I am, but I asked if they wanted my registration number and they don't, so just reply yes.
Edited to add, sometimesyou can get away with just replacing the diaphragm in which case it can be done by just disconnecting a couple of pipes which are screwed unions.
Dont forget to isolate the heating and cold supply with the isolating valves.
Last edited by: MrTee43 on Thu 2 Dec 10 at 18:44
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Any plumbers or electricians in da house? - Zero
