I've bought this house that was previously owned by a (deceased) builder. He built a new garage and converted the old one into an office and shed. I want to convert the ofice into a workshop. It is lined with plasterboard and I'm trying to get a strong fixing onto it. I've probed the plasterboard and the surface is around 50mm from the brick behind, so I initially thought it was a stud wall. I can't find any studs. I tried a metal detector, but that indicates the whole wall is metal (foil?). I tried a stud detector, but that fails too, perhaps because of the metal. I've tried a magnet - nothing. I'm beginning to wonder if there's something like celotex bonded to the brick, with the plasterboard bonded to that. How can I get a secure fixing without crushing the plasterboard and whatever's under it?
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...there's rather a lot of questions unanswered there, but I think I might be looking at something like this:
www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-self-drill-plasterboard-fixings-metal-35mm-100-pack/47347
There are different sizes, suppliers and detailed designs, so the link constitutes only an example.
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Screwfix code 344HG dot and dab fixings. Wall plug goes into brick but steel tube spacer keeps plaster board from crushing in. (I can’t do your clever link).
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Dog's link is to the things I used for mounting a (quite heavy) flat screen TV on plasterboard at my daughter's apartment. They certainly seemed strong enough but obv they aren't being continually stressed by having tings lifted on and off.
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The ones I actually used were: bullfix.co.uk/ same thing though.
I used 2 to hang a very heavy hall mirror, and 2 plus a Hafele kitchen cabinet rail to hang a 1 metre wide kitchen wall cabinet on walls made of yoghurt and soft cream.
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Presumably you have tried using the mark 1 finger to locate any studs by tapping.
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I don't want to fix directly to the plasterboard because I don't know what it's fixed to and how. I'll be putting up old kitchen cupboards as storage for tools and stuff (heavy). I quite like the idea of the fittings Timeonmyhands suggested, but I see they recommend a max of 45mm from the front of the plasterboard to the masonry - I'll have to measure my gap more carefully. I can see me cutting a hole out to investigate what exactly is going on.
Biggles, that was my first method, I'm convinced there's no studwork behind the plasterboard.
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" Presumably you have tried using the mark 1 finger to locate any studs by tapping."
Or you could buy a stud finder Really useful bit of kit but worth getting a good one
Last edited by: CGNorwich on Tue 3 Oct 23 at 22:42
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I’ve tried various stud / electrics /pipes finders and have never found an accurate one.
Maybe I just haven’t went high enough in budget!
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I have a Worx one. Not the cheapest but does a good job.
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I use a Franklin ProSensor M70 - 28 knicker on Amazon.
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If you have 50mm gap, Tubby, then I would think the pb is on battens of 3X2 timber. There is likely to be one in the corner of the room and another 4ft along if regular sized pb.. There should be some flexibility between the battens of you press on the wall and none at the battens apart from intermediate ones..
Drill 10/12 mm hole in the corner where the cupboard will cover the hole and see if there's any resistance and wood comes out or if it just goes into a void.
Ted
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The wall looks like it's got woodworm where I've been poking a bicycle spoke into it to try and find any studs. I'm convinced the plasterboard's bonded to some foil backed insulation that's bonded to the brick. I'll cut a square out next (behind where I intend fixing a cupboard) to investigate.
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What do you need to fix to the wall? Medium weight stuff will go on the new 3M plasterboard claws. Otherwise if it’s going to be big and heavy you may as well cut out a square in a section that’s going to be hidden afterward and have a look.
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Thanks for your message Tubs...I'll respond in a day or so. Been in hospital today being slashed up by surgeon !
Buy an endoscope, cheap on Amazon, for your phone. Cut the hole as suggested and have a look round.
I have one for automotive use and it's very good. The flexible probe is about 8ft long.
Ted
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Ted - it may even save you money and a delay?
tinyurl.com/diymoneysaver
Last edited by: sherlock47 on Tue 10 Oct 23 at 10:13
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Indeed Shylock. Ideal for ear wax and nipsy inspection !
Ted
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>> Buy an endoscope, cheap on Amazon, for your phone. Cut the hole as suggested and
>> have a look round.
Following Ted's advice, I've been looking at endoscopes, they're cheap enough. Any recommendations regarding the 5.5mm or 7mm models?
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The smaller the better, I think. Mine is about 5mm, the lights are quite bright.
Remember....size natters !
Ted
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>> Remember....size natters !
I was always told it's not the size of it, but what you do with it (thank glub!).
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Finally got around to getting back to this job. I can't make head nor tail of what I'm seeing with the endoscope, so I resorted to cutting a 50mm square hole in the plasterboard. There's what looks like metallised bubble wrap behind it - some kind of insulation? Despite having a good probe about in the hole, I can't find any sort of studwork the plasterboard is fixed to. I don't see how the insulation's fixed either.
I think Timeonmyhands Screwfix code 344HG dot and dab fixings tinyurl.com/4sb2trtb look to be the best bet, so I'll probably go for them.
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For my concrete panel garage, the recommendation is to put stud into the thick parts of the concrete panels and then staple gun the foil insulation to the stud but let it hang loose away from the plasterboard, to basically trap the air behind it.
When I do this my stud will be irregular as can only apply where I have thicker part of the panels.
I still think you must have stud there. Somewhere. It can’t be levitating 50mm away from the brick.
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The above-mentioned Screwfix dot & dab fixings are great; I've used them for shelves and more all over our 2016-build house. Long screw, half into a wall plug and a steel tube to protect the soft stuff. They sound like exactly what you need. Buy a matching 10mm masonry drill bit while you're at it, and keep it in the box of fixings.
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