I am thinking or replacing my fluorescent bathroom ring tube light with a LED version. As far as ordinary LED bulbs are concerned, the glass top burns cool but the base shield gets very hot. In fact the instructions with my my Serious Readers lights warns that the lamps need to be cooled off for 20 minutes after switching off before handling them.
I have never seen a LED ring but guess they must have some kind of shield. If any poster has experience of LED ceiling rings can they say if any special heat insulation measure are needed please?
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>> I have never seen a LED ring but guess they must have some kind of
>> shield. If any poster has experience of LED ceiling rings can they say if any
>> special heat insulation measure are needed please?
LED Ring lights, (and panels, - love LED panels) in my house. generally speaking the larger physical size, the cooler they are. You will need no special shielding or heat measures.
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What sort of panels are you using? I've just bought a new house with incandescent lighting which needs ripping out and replacing with LED.
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I replaced some old 80s eyeball swiveling spots with these
www.amazon.co.uk/Recessed-Ceiling-Panel-Bright-Transformer/dp/B07FVYJ3W2
bathroom lights with this kinda thing
www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09H2LP4NY
and attic rooms with these
www.amazon.co.uk/Ultra-Thin-Surface-Mounted-960Lumen-Bulkhead/dp/B09VPLXYPY/
Ok a bit officey, but they fill / cover holes and provide light where needs to, unobtrusive when not switched on. Normal mood lighting is by uplighters or wall lights
Last edited by: Zero on Wed 1 Jun 22 at 11:43
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So my kitchen (not a huge room) has a centre light with 4 LED spots, which I've never really liked (a bit like this but not so tacky tinyurl.com/ycxxsxra ). How would a panel like that one compare Z? Would it be as bright?
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>> How would a panel like that one compare Z? Would it be as bright?
In the cones of light your spots are aimed at, No. generally in the room? yes. The panels are bright. IMHO, its generally much more useable light
Last edited by: Zero on Wed 1 Jun 22 at 12:45
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I bought a similar light to this for the kitchen to replace the original fluorescent.
It is easy to fit and looks fine.
This is the bathroom version.
www.amazon.co.uk/Super-Thin-Bathroom-Ceiling-Waterproof-Equivalent/dp/B08SHXXSPK/ref=dp_prsubs_1?pd_rd_i=B08SHXXSPK&psc=1
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I had 2x3 GU10 spots in my dark kitchen which threw shadows around.
I replaced them with this Creyer Modern Square 24W LED... www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07TT1J2QT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share what a difference.
So impressed by them that I replaced the fluorescent tubes in my utility room and storage room with them. And also the lights at the top and bottom of the stairs.
For various reasons my house is quite dark inside so these have made a huge difference.
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Just replaced 6 old single fluorescent strip light units in the garage with some of these 6500K LED strip lights:
tinyurl.com/msk99jsx
What a total transformation!
Still got 2 to fit under shelves above workbenches but not really needed.
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MalwareBytes says
Website blocked due to ransomware
Website blocked: www.smart-light.co.uk
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Cant say I've had any issues with the website from start to completion of my purchase.
Anyways they were V-Tac 50W 5ft LED Batten Light Fitting Prismatic Slim (150CM) @ £23.89 inc VAT
Last edited by: Fullchat on Thu 2 Jun 22 at 00:19
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I use the VTAC LED battens and am very impressed. Only downside is that the cable is soldered on and too short for any practical use.
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Yes. A few junction boxes employed in fitting the replacements. Wago type connectors supplied. I had 3 banks of two and a further 2 above a workbench. Bit of faffing but no real dramas.
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Works ok, pour moi.
Probably thinks you are dodgy, trying to access the website in the early hours.
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Maybe :-)
I don't know if MalwareBytes has a list of sites it believes are dodgy or if it checks each site as you try to log in to it, either way I can get round it by simply pressing Continue, but I am inclined not to if I've had a warning - even though I reckon it's probably OK.
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led lights dont get hot. heat is what costs
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>> led lights dont get hot. heat is what costs
.*********
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>> led lights dont get hot. heat is what costs
I'll disagree with that, I fitted an LED into my room thermostat so I could see when it was switching on/off. It generated enough heat to fool the t/stat into switching off at too low a temperature.
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All electric appliance generate some heat. LEDs lamps however produce very little compared with an incandescent lamp. You can touch an LED lamp quite comfortably even when it’s been on for hours and they pose no risk of fire unlike incandescents.
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Individual commercial LEDs are about 60% efficient. Overall efficiency of mains voltage LED lamps is reduced by one third or more because of the very basic driver circuits used so a 6W lamp will be losing about 4W in heat. It would be much more efficient to use low voltage DC for lighting circuits with a single or N+1 power supply.
Don't tell anyone but I think there's an opportunity here if selling my used shreddies on OnlyFans doesn't work out.
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reduced by one third or more because of the very basic driver circuits used so
>> a 6W lamp will be losing about 4W in heat. It would be much more
>> efficient to use low voltage DC for lighting circuits with a single or N+1 power
>> supply.
Its been known for yonks that once LEDs became common place that all domestic lighting circuits should be all DC*. The chances of that happening of course, are zero*, Pity really the opportunities for LED lighting are enormous, - Panels, Tape, pinhole architrave/coving/cornices as well as delicately thin light fittings - all unencumbered by the needs to regulate voltage at the light unit, and dissipate the heat in a compromised fitting. - Which is where Bromps problem comes from - an overdriven LED where the power supply contained within the fitting is unable to dissipate the heat and components within fail.
*I do have, from when I moved in, a section of the house where the lighting circuit is DC, driven by a very old large (about 8 inches square) simple power supply, basically a large transformer with chunky diodes in a bridge rectifier set up and a huge capacitor that would start a Tesla. Its got to be 40 years old. It drove a series of 12v 50 watt mini spots.
Change the wiring regs, to incorporate a mandatory switched mode power supply into the distribution/fuse box of all new houses and away you go, it will come.
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"bridge rectifier"
The perineum?
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I've mentioned it before but the LED spots fitted as part of my kitchen refurb got very hot, you certainly could not touch them once they'd been on for a few minutes. All started to flicker after less than a year I think due in part to the fact that the recessed fittings could not disperse the heat. Those were Osram branded. Sylvania replacements have been much better.
Spot/floods in the newly refurbished holiday let we stayed in earlier this week on the Western Isles had what looked like heat dispersing fins.
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>> Sylvania replacements have been much better.
I've had about 6 years of continuous use out of my Sylvania 5W GU10 LEDs. Their brightness and colour (warm white) is very good but I wouldn't fit them again.
Once they started failing they nearly all went within about six months of one another, and I took one apart out of curiosity. The insulation on all the internal wiring had failed due to heat buildup and just fallen off, leaving bare conductors. These connect onto an aluminium PCB for the LEDs - the only thing between the user and 240v is a thin coat of paint.
I used to change out GU10s with the power on. Not any more.
Also raised with Sylvania (sent photos and offered to return the lamps to them for investigation), who were not in the slightest bit interested.
IKEA is now my go-to for LED lamps. You have the benefit of much higher CRI at the same price with IKEA stuff.
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Aluminium is about the best conductor of heat for the money.
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LED lights and heat - Zero
