I swapped out the old range cooker with our single oven cooker.
The main trip on the RCD box still trips when the oven is turned on.
This is despite the sparky saying nothing is wrong with the wiring. It’s just limited to 32 amps.
Would a draw over 32 amps cause the main switch to trip and not the trip for the actual circuit?
I would have expected a fuse to go or is the switch flipping the modern equivalent?
Also I had a gas safe plumber disconnect the old range cooker only to come home to the place reeking of gas. It was a bayonet type gas connection and he clearly didn’t check the seal properly.
The emergency gas man was rather annoyed.
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Depends on the rating of the main breaker and each individual circuit breaker.
For example, if you have 5 circuit breakers each rated at 16 amps the total current draw could be 5x16 = 80 amps but if your main breaker is only rated at 60 amps - pop!
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>>Also I had a gas safe plumber disconnect the old range cooker only to come home to the place reeking of gas. It was a bayonet type gas connection and he clearly didn't check the seal properly.
I often wonder about the reliability of these certification services. I have had several bum steers by Checkatrade, for example. I would be inclined to trust the Which? Trusted Trader system but haven't used it so far. Best is probably a recommendation from a trusted friend or neighbour.
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>> I often wonder about the reliability of these certification services. I have had several bum
>> steers by Checkatrade, for example. I would be inclined to trust the Which? Trusted Trader
>> system but haven't used it so far. Best is probably a recommendation from a trusted
>> friend or neighbour.
I've heard good reports of trading standards approved.
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>> >>Also I had a gas safe plumber disconnect the old range cooker only to come
>> home to the place reeking of gas. It was a bayonet type gas connection and
>> he clearly didn't check the seal properly.
>>
>> I often wonder about the reliability of these certification services. I have had several bum
>> steers by Checkatrade, for example. I would be inclined to trust the Which? Trusted Trader
>> system but haven't used it so far. Best is probably a recommendation from a trusted
>> friend or neighbour.
>>
>>
This guy was recommended and "Gas Safe" which is the replacement from CORGI so should have been fully trained, presented his "Gas Safe" card etc, which could have been fake of course.
The guy from SGN last night was excellent. He was supposed to isolate the supply and leave but actually fixed the problem & made sure the boiler came back on, (with me having to get a plumber to fix / replace the valve today).
I had a quick look at the SGN website this AM to leave positive feedback but couldn't find anything. I will have another look this PM.
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>> Would a draw over 32 amps cause the main switch to trip and not the
>> trip for the actual circuit?
Kevin explained it - your problem is not that the draw is overloading the single circuit, but that the total draw being used by the house is overloading the main supply.
If you turned off every breaker other than the cooker circuit, I would expect either nothing to trip or the cooker circuit to trip. The main one should not.
You have probably got at least one other thing in the house drawing a lot. Perhaps even something faulty.
>> I would have expected a fuse to go or is the switch flipping the modern
>> equivalent?
Switch flipping is the modern equivalent.
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RCD? Its probably got absolutely nothing to do with current draw, but earth leakage. It could mean your cooker is faulty or you have a slightly iffy RCD
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Zero has got it in one. Too many people with an incorrect understanding and/or giving poor advice. Not sure about your sparky either!
This is most likely to be an earth trip leakage issue. My money would be on the oven
element, but could be an oversensitive RCD particularly if a high current is being drawn. What is the rating of your new Oven?
Last edited by: sherlock47 on Thu 11 Nov 21 at 13:01
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It’s the oven we had in our previous home. I was storing it (wrapped) in the garage. It’s rated 32 amps and the total electricity draw is 10.7amps.
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Was this the original fault? i.e. range was tripping power? Presume it did at some time work, and then the fault developed?
When you say turned on, do you mean just power on at the outlet, or actually loading it up (i.e. oven and / or rings on to heat)?
What is the set up at the fuse board - probably need to see a pic of it.
Since the fault is still present with the cooker changed out, it is pointing a finger at the circuit rather than the appliance.
10.7kW is 45 + amps, which is well over the 32A rating.... But you'll only get that with all the rings and oven elements on.
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>> Was this the original fault? i.e. range was tripping power? Presume it did at some
>> time work, and then the fault developed?
>>
It did originally work but then started to trip the small RCD switch and the larger circuit for the whole house.
The ovens took an age to warm up and didn't keep temperature very well as the seals had gone and the doors dropped. I think it was 30 years+ old. The hob was gas. The ovens and grill were electric.
The trips happened with the grill first then the ovens. Eventually it tripped when the mains switch was turned on and this was replaced by the electrician.
Mrs Z didn't like it anyway so it was going to go.
>> When you say turned on, do you mean just power on at the outlet, or
>> actually loading it up (i.e. oven and / or rings on to heat)?
Loading it up. But it's not instant - and rather than the small RCD tripping, this time it's the main switch.
>>
>> What is the set up at the fuse board - probably need to see a
>> pic of it.
>>
>> Since the fault is still present with the cooker changed out, it is pointing a
>> finger at the circuit rather than the appliance.
>>
>> 10.7kW is 45 + amps, which is well over the 32A rating.... But you'll only
>> get that with all the rings and oven elements on.
>>
It does look like the circuit but as mentioned above, there is a difference with the main switch tripping out at the moment.
The specs for the main oven is 2.7kw and it tripped with just that on.
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You say RCD (Residual current device), but it's not clear whether these actually are RCDs or if they are just MCBs (Mini Circuit breakers) - or circuit breaker in the case of the main switch. Do either of them have a Test button on them? I'm assuming that you don't have any other high load trip issues?
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>> You say RCD (Residual current device), but it's not clear whether these actually are RCDs
>> or if they are just MCBs (Mini Circuit breakers) - or circuit breaker in the
>> case of the main switch. Do either of them have a Test button on them?
>> I'm assuming that you don't have any other high load trip issues?
>>
>>
>>
Zippy's description of
"and rather than the small RCD tripping, this time it's the main switch"
does not help things along. He has changed house I believe, and may have had RCBOs in previous house?? - and RW has not included a RCBO as an option!
My money is still on earth leakage in old damp heating elements. The grill and oven may have separate elements and/or both combined hence cumulative leakage if both are on.
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So is the oven on its own spur with it's own fuse/MCB at the fuseboard?
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>> So is the oven on its own spur with it's own fuse/MCB at the fuseboard?
>>
>>
There is an ancient Miele cooker hood off the spur also. It's never used as it's too noisy.
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Electrickery woes - Kevin
