Used a friend's Circular Saw, a cheap £40 one from Screwfix. Was only cutting decking joists but it did the trick and I like the little laser light it shone.
Think this was it
www.screwfix.com/p/mac-allister-mscs1200-1200w-165mm-electric-circular-saw-220-240v/314gf
Have been meaning to get one for a while now and wondering if anyone has one, and any specific recommendations, features to go for?
I would initialy just be using it for general cutting rough wood but no doubt as time goes on may want to try more intricate stuff.
Many don't seem to have the laser - is this just a gimmick and a proper "notch" cut out at the saw is a better sight line?
What about guide tracks? They look as if they could be good for straight lines but again, many don't seem to have them?
I would definitely want a carry case and looking at around the £100 ish mark. Oh and would want corded rather than cordless.
Any thoughts?
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I have a McCalister circular saw, not that one. It has a laser, its accurate enough, not always visible tho but still has the guide notch. powerful enough to do the job and has been durable for irregular diy stuff.
Whats a guide track?
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I think hes referring to the plunge/track saw arrangement for getting totally straight cuts in material.
tinyurl.com/cnkzjpar
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Ive got the Evolution 165mm from Screwfix as a replacement for a Macalister which chewed up it blade mounting cam (my fault expecting too much from it). It doesn't come with a box or a laser light which I think are a bit of a gimmick and not that accurate.
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It was just under £50. I see you can get a Makita one for less than £80 with good reviews despite slightly less wattage.
Erbauer is another brand that seems popular. I don't think there's much difference between them any of them at the price range you are contemplating.
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Seen some comments that the Erbauer is difficult to source blades for - maybe it was just the particular model I was looking at.
I really shouldnt browse these things on a Friday evebing. Well, you see, my Makita cordless drill that I have had for about 10 years is dying and only runs at one speed. So I will need to replace that soon and it will definitely be cordless.
So, I should really think ahead and if getting new cordless drill then may as well get everything else to be in the LXT Cordless range???? So far, in my head anyway, I reckon I am about £600 of essential tools I must get......
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I bought a cheap B&D when I was boarding the loft years (decades?) ago. Was advised to buy a TFT blade. It did all the sawing needed for the loft and is still going strong. I stupidly bought two.
Anyoneone want a TFT blade for a cheap B&D circular saw, unused?
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We used to have a B&B retail outlet near to where I worked. They also sold 'refurbished' tools which looked unused. I bought the bigger circular saw which is a beast. Always scares me when I spark it up :). Stlll going strong after 30 years +. I do prefer using the smaller one which is suitable for most tasks.
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Having universal batteries across a range of tools is a good idea providing there is no built in early obsolescence its best to stick to the main brands.
I've had Makita cordless drills for a very long time. They've had some stick and the batteries have just started showing their age.
I was under the impression blades were fairly universal and come with adapters to fit a cross section of spindle diameters from different manufacturers.
Essential tools can always be justified. Just hit the 'gadget account' :)
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If the need is to accurately cut decking and floorboards a chop saw or mitre saw (slightly more expensive but will cut angles better) is best. Width of cut is key measure - the wider the better generally. This will be no good for sheet material.
For cutting sheet material (eg: 8x4) you need either a circular saw or plunge saw. A plunge saw uses a track to guide it and will make a clean very straight cuts.
Circular saw is either guided by hand or by running it against a straight edge clamped to the board. A laser will not make the cut any straighter if cutting by hand - this almost inevitably leaves a slightly wavy edge. The need for accuracy depends on what you are making!
Saw blades with light DiY use will last years (5 - 10) unless you hit a nail or similar which can destroy it with immediate effect.
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>>Any thoughts?
I think it depends on what you're trying to cut, what you're trying to achieve and your level of expertise.
Personally I find handheld circular saws wild and uncontrollable, largely unsatisfactory and I can't really think why I bought it.
A chop-saw, on the other hand, does everything I want easily.
>>may want to try more intricate stuff.
A circular saw does not do more intricate stuff.
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A bunch of us helped a mate build a large wooden deck around his pool*. He'd hired what I now know is called a "compound" mitre saw. Makita mounted on a stand. Lovely piece of kit.
* He supplied the beers, food, materials and tools. Not a good idea to mix beer and power tools but no injuries fortunately.
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I have a sliding compound saw too, bought it as part of the Orangery project. The back joining wall of the house I did with cedral siding, too wide for a regular compound or "chop" saw.
Less than a ton from Screwfix.
Wish I had discovered masonry screws before that project tho would have made battening a breeze.
Last edited by: Zero on Sat 26 Jun 21 at 08:02
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Dangerous things - a systems engineer at work was doing some DIY - lost 3 fingers and part of one. Very clever chap but obviously DIY & Power tools beyond him.
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Power tools are dangerous. Saws are the worst and can remove digits in less than a second.
Chain saws are unquestionably top of the league as they are free to move in three dimensions. Easily attack feet and legs as well as hands!!
Always make sure that if working with them - no trip hazards, fingers well away from where you plan cutting, basic safety gear (goggle and mask), plenty of space in which to work, wait until saw has stopped before moving workpiece.
I do a bit of woodwork as a hobby - whilst if I go out for a meal I may have a pint or a glass of wine, in the workshop no alcohol is my order of the day!
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I have a mains powered P PCS 1200 watt 3.50" cut example. Today was literally the first time I have taken it off the shelf in several years. Good and dusty and its rusted blade is a result of near-zero use. Free but needs collection from Dorset.
I don't know what P stands for - maybe Performance Power?
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Well decided to cash in the vouchers I get for being on the monthly Covid survey and bought a Dewalt drill set and a circular saw also!
18v XR batteries.
From Screwfix whose app seems unable to offer the option of sharing!
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Circular Saw - Zero
