The Christmas Eve C/H failure curse nearly visited. H/W on all the time, no C/H.
Quick poke about reveals it to be with the 3 way valve, and if anything goes wrong there, one must always assume its the synchronous motor*. This one had seized.
Quick check at screw fix reveals they have the head unit, so off I pops. Hour later we have it working. Two hours later we have it working properly. (well it was dark in the cupboard and drab white and grey wires look very similar)
Phew that was easy, no system draining.
*Of all the appalling engineering choices foisted not he general public, the "drive the synchronous motor till it stalls" C/H valve is one of the most stupid. It will fail, guaranteed, its just a matter of time.
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Ha!! The times I've changed mine...
My potential disaster is garage fridge freezer. Did a (very successful) click and collect at Tesco this afternoon and when putting stuff into the fridge part it seems not very cold. I think it's either on a lot or not on at all. I've ordered a new one, to be delivered in the New Year - we'll get through without it though, it's mainly used for drinks and leftovers... (of which there will be plenty as we catered for the daughter who can't now come...along with about 300 other people who were never invited, judging by how full of food mt garage is!!!)
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>> My potential disaster is garage fridge freezer. Did a (very successful) click and collect at
>> Tesco this afternoon and when putting stuff into the fridge part it seems not very
>> cold.
Is it one designed for garage / shed type environments? My sister had the same problem with hers not cooling down enough. Turned out the fridge/freezer she bought was not suitable for cold outbuildings.
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No, just a regular one but it is about 20 years old. We got it for nothing when it was about 2 years old when SWMBOs employer moved offices. My attached garage doesn't rally get too cold anyway - probably never ever below 0 even in really cold weather - it's attached to our house and next door's garage, and an extension across the back so the only outside side is the front door.
It has a switch near the fridge light which is either something to do with what you are talking about, or it's a defrost switch - I can't find the right manual online and that seems to be why fridges have switches. I've put that switch in the opposite position and changed the temperature and it is now much cooler, heading towards freezing I reckon - as I say, it seems to either not cool much at all or overdoes it.
AO had a very similar sized replacement at a very good cost so I've ordered one (£250 incl removal of the old one!). It'll probably be more energy efficient. Could have had it delivered on Sunday but we decided to wait till the New Year as the fridge and freezer are both pretty full atm.
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>> It has a switch near the fridge light which is either something to do with
>> what you are talking about, or it's a defrost switch
That might be the superboost button to cool the fridge down quick after a defrost. Mind you, I could be wrong as it's usually a push button, not a switch. After a while it auto reverts back to normal mode.
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I saw that when researching but I assumed that was only on newer models. The model number plate is supposed to be somewhere around the door but it seems mine precedes when this began as, without moving it, I can't find it anywhere (I bet it's behind it but I can't move it now).
Anyway it's history - almost!! Indesit replacement. ao.com/product/ibd5517wuk1-indesit-fridge-freezer-white-77225-28.aspx
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Just been through exactly the same process, but luckily I had a spare actuator in the man-cave.
You can get momo (motor on, motor off) valves but, ime, they are little more reliable than the spring return ones, and the valve bodies are different, so you can't just change the actuator.
They are more efficient, since the motor isn't permanently energised, but slower to react since they rotate only in one direction, and thus usually for a greater angle of rotation.
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>> Just been through exactly the same process, but luckily I had a spare actuator in
>> the man-cave.
Normally I change the motor on the head unit. I can get motors cheap, but I couldn't get one quick, so it was complete head unit. I now have time to purchase a new motor, and refurb the old one as a spare.
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Have had those self and same issues. The give away for me is when the system should be shut down the pump is running. Couple of movements of the override and it shuts down.
I hope this is not the kiss of death but I have 2. The hot water is mounted horizontally and the central heating vertically. Its always been the horizontal one that's given problems. Either the motor or the micro switches. I managed to blag a supply of micro switches.
Changed the Landis Gyr for quite expensive Honeywell so we will see.
Last edited by: Fullchat on Wed 23 Dec 20 at 23:19
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>> Changed the Landis Gyr for quite expensive Honeywell so we will see.
This was a quite expensive Honeywell that failed, bout 5 years old from memory.
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>This was a quite expensive Honeywell that failed, bout 5 years old from memory.
A handy feature of the newer Honeywell valves is that you can buy and replace the valve guts (top-plate, spindle and ball) without disconnecting the pipework and faffing with the inevitable leaking unions until you overtighten them and regret it next time.
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As we discussed in another place, Kevin. I was able to do this with a Sunvic valve, albeit I had to buy a complete valve (sans actuator), not just the innards, and then cannibalise it.
It was easy, though, (four screws and lift out the innards and seal) and the compression joints are entirely "shot", so it was a good result.
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3 way valves - i just refuse to use one.
I run a a system with 2 pumps and a non return valve on the heating circuit to prevent gravity circulation. Ok it also requires a third relay to ensure that boiler overrun works correctly. But this modification was added when the original boiler was replaced with a condensing boiler about 10 years ago.
It has been working with the 1 pump failure and one noisy relay replacement in over 25 years.
That is probably the kiss of death :)
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>> >This was a quite expensive Honeywell that failed, bout 5 years old from memory.
>>
>> A handy feature of the newer Honeywell valves is that you can buy and replace
>> the valve guts (top-plate, spindle and ball) without disconnecting the pipework and faffing with the
>> inevitable leaking unions until you overtighten them and regret it next time.
Errr - thats what I said I did ^^^^ there somewhere.
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>>
>> Errr - thats what I said I did ^^^^ there somewhere.
>>
I'd interpreted that you'd replaced the actuator, not dismantled the valve itself.
Kevin is referring to fixing a failure within the valve body (on mine, it's generally the seal around the spindle leaking).
AIUI, on Honeywell valves you can buy the spindle/seal/paddles and dismantle the valve body and replace (whilst leaving the 3 compression fittings undisturbed).
I managed to do this on a Sunvic valve by cannibalising the parts from a complete new valve (which was important, as the compression fittings on mine are nipped-up tighter than a tight thing after several previous interventions over the years, and wouldn't, I think, stand another replacement, and soldering new fittings would be a bit of a challenge after previous "professional" plumber intervention).
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failure to read on my part. But even so taking out the valve guts still means you need to drain down the system. Removing your ball is a leaky process.
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>> But even so taking out the valve guts still
>> means you need to drain down the system.
>>
...you do indeed, it just means that (under the circumstances described) you're less likely to have a leaky system when you refill.
I'm lucky in that the 3-port valve is upstairs, next to the HW cylinder. If I Isolate the radiators, I don't really have a lot of draining to do to work on the valve.
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Bear in mind I know nothing about plumbing. ( or gin).
Home late last Sunday from Spain my alarm key pad wouldn’t work ( sorry neighbours) and my CH wouldn’t come on. HW was ok so at least the boiler worked. Rang my plumber the next day who only 12 months ago installed a new combi ( replacing the old boiler, HW cylinder, header tanks) and he talked me through topping up the system to 1.2, ( digital readout on my Intergas boiler) which had been showing 0.
Then the CH came on, but there must be a leak somewhere..there are no obvious leaks from any radiators which is a worry as I’m going away for 3 months again early 2021.
Any ideas please ?
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>>Any ideas...
Thick socks. It's never too much of a problem if your feet are warm.
;-)
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Merino wool at both extremities! I’ve done my fair share of camping in the snow so find someone else who needs to suck eggs ????
Merry Christmas Runfer to you and yours.
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I suspect three months unused, with a change of ambient temperature from 20+c ish to 2 or 3c over that time, is not unreasonable for the system to lose pressure.
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That’s very reassuring. Thanks Z. Appreciated.
Although I don’t understand the mechanics of it.
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Likewise daughters house has had a new boiler fitted and it looses pressure , albeit slowly. Its only a small terrace with visible pipework in which I can find no evidence of leakage.
Providing you have been briefed pressurising is not normally an issue.
Never considered changes in ambient temperatures. Good point. :)
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Our Christmas plumbing woe is a ballcock float valve that has decided to stop shutting off. Dripping all night last night
:-(
Almost certainly an easy fix with a new washer I guess. What could possibly go wrong...
Last edited by: Runfer D'Hills on Thu 24 Dec 20 at 07:33
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Runfer...wrap a thick sock around it to stop the dripping noise
Last edited by: legacylad on Thu 24 Dec 20 at 07:41
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>> Runfer...wrap a thick sock around it to stop the dripping noise
Thanks for the suggestion. I had one for you about where to stick your socks but, well, it's Christmas...
;-)
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>> Normally I change the motor on the head unit. I can get motors cheap, but
>> I couldn't get one quick, so it was complete head unit. I now have time
>> to purchase a new motor, and refurb the old one as a spare.
>>
..the spare would have been from the purchase of a new valve and head unit (for little more than the cost of the valve alone) when I replaced the valve itself, but re-used the existing head unit (it avoids having to wire the new one in). Given the sticker denoting the end-of-warranty date, it would have been at least 10 years ago.
In passing, it's quite obvious that Kevin's curse on me on the 20th simply bounced off and headed in your direction:
;-)
>>...A kick in the b*lls would probably close the distance somewhat.....
OK, OK!
May the elves of misfortune have fun with your 3-way valve on Christmas Eve.
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>In passing, it's quite obvious that Kevin's curse on me on the 20th simply bounced off
>and headed in your direction:
Christmas Eve ain't over yet TnE!
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These heathens from Basingstoke and their curses, you are only safe in Stonehenge, that's why the A303 was built between the two.
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I went to Screwfix the other day.. I was really disappointed and let down....
They told me that they weren't actually a dating agency..
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Have you tried a tool hire company?
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Re system small water leaks, if the boiler manufacturer allows it, I've found Fernox F4 sealer a great help (sealed a fair sized under concrete floor leak). Might pay to check the expansion vessel and over pressure valve first.
Re Honeywell 3 way valve, they have an in-built quirk where the valve can stay in the radiators only position (with motor stalled) even when no radiators or hot water is demanded.
No wonder the motors don't last long! High time I drilled some cooling holes in the cover!
A bit early, best wishes to all on C4P for 2021.
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Thanks percy.
Commendable lurking.
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The Christmas Eve C/H failure. - smokie
