Chez Bora is about 15 years old and we have lived there 8 or 9 years. I find myself having to repaint much of the external paintwork every three years.
no matter how much preparation, priming, undercoating etc, after 12/18 months the pain starts to peel, split and bubble - what am I doing wrong ?
tinyurl.com/2ebkp59
tinyurl.com/28sxclf
|
If you used Sikkens Rubbol AZ you'd find it would out perform all other coatings,
You'd havta sand orf the old stuff first though (or strip it)
www.sikkens.co.uk/en/Products/Alphabetical/RubbolAZ.htm
|
...what am I doing wrong ?...
Nothing.
Modern paints are rubbish.
Lead, and plenty of it, is what's needed.
But we couldn't possibly have that because next door's baby might crawl up under your eaves and lick the woodwork.
Water-based car paint is garbage, too.
Last edited by: ifithelps on Sat 4 Sep 10 at 10:29
|
>> ...what am I doing wrong ?...
>>
>> Nothing.
>>
>> Modern paints are rubbish.
>>
>> Lead, and plenty of it, is what's needed.
Yeah, modern paint is rubbish. However it helps to buy the best paint you can.
Its not helped by the basic wood underneath being rubbish as well, never properly kiln dried slowly, never cut from the optimal parts of the trunk. Complete garbage.
|
>> Its not helped by the basic wood underneath being rubbish as well, never properly kiln
>> dried slowly, never cut from the optimal parts of the trunk. Complete garbage.
>>
Yep, some of the woodwork bears a great resemblance to the balsa wood I was making models out of 40 years ago :-(
|
>> Yep, some of the woodwork bears a great resemblance to the balsa wood I was
>> making models out of 40 years ago :-(
>>
>>
However Balsa wood is a hardwood, be wary of suppliers with offerings od hardwood frames!
Meranti, offered as a replacement for mahogany by many door suppliers can also be very soft!
|
|
Go on, admit it, what you really need is to replace with pvc.....
|
>> Go on, admit it, what you really need is to replace with pvc.....
>>
... and does anyone know of a decent supplier?
|
>>Go on, admit it, what you really need is to replace with pvc.....
The best advice so far...
|
>> >>Go on, admit it, what you really need is to replace with pvc.....
>>
>> The best advice so far...
>>
I cannot agree with that. I have replaced with white finish aluminium.
Absolutely delighted. The frames are much slimmer than any PVCu that I have seen.
I was replacing Crittal windows set in wood and wanted minimum light loss.
Added pluses were very neat window handles and normal looking metal hinges on the doors. I hate those uglybig plastic hinges that are on the vast majority of PVCu doors.
The previous wooden cills were the oroginal 1930s hardwood jobs.
They had denatured and had the grain significantly exposed.
I tried all sorts of filler and paint but they all failed. The best filler was old fashioned putty.
|
If you have to paint exterior joinery then this is the only stuff to use. It's very smelly and full of volatile oily stuff - just as real paint should be and non of this water based nonsense. I only use this stuff - nothing else.
www.icipaints.co.uk/products/duluxtrade/exteriors.jsp
|
henry k
All I can assume is that your preparation wasn't all it could have been - but reading your description of what you started with:
"They had denatured and had the grain significantly exposed.
I tried all sorts of filler and paint but they all failed. The best filler was old fashioned putty."
I am not really surprised.
For filling and repair, my suggestion is to use two part wood filler or Plastic Padding (as in car body repairs). It sticks like anything, fills in any defects, can be sanded smooth and doesn't rot.
|
I got fed up with trying everything. Stripped everything off cleaned out the soft wood, wood hardner, Three part wood treatment/paint etc etc
Preparation was a long job. I tried two part wood filler and that jumped out on two rounds of attempting to sort it. Tried all sorts of paint but none worked well.
I really like that wood filler and have used lots of it internally and on external ( no de-natured) wood and the finish is like glass and I am really impressed with it.
I always used some round head brass screws or hardboard pins in larger holes in wood to act as a key for the filler. This has always worked well to date.
Sadly the most fantastic abrasive for rubbing down is no longer made but I have a stock of Cintride sheets , orbital sander pads and surform blades.
If you find any grabbit. They also made very lightweight hand sander to take the sheets.
|
DE:
Which particular products do you use? IME the windows that last well are those made from Georgian hardwood, with several layers of lead paint on them. I always feel bad stripping it off, but it's the only way to make windows work properly - stripping sash windows back to remove 20/30 layers of paint.
Since metal paints & oil-based paints were all made illegal on 1 January, this problem has become much worse.
Lead paint from chandlers - I cannot find any with a quick look on the 'net.
|
You could perhaps make it up yourself. I have experimented with linseed oil. I think that "white lead" is still obtainable. I am not sure how advisable it would be to apply lead paint today.
www.linseedpaintcompany.co.uk/
www.realpaints.com/faq.htm
(info)
Hmm. Creosote.
Last edited by: FotheringtonTomas on Mon 6 Sep 10 at 14:08
|
>>I have replaced with white finish aluminium.<<
Two owses ago we had a plaice by the cee' with mostly UPVC windus,
but the lounge windus were the original wood smal pane typo (others ad Geo insertz).
I had ze wooden ones replaced (@ great cost) with white finish alu filled with argon or some gaz,
Triffic windus (narrow profile) 875 times better than plastic.
|
I've done a lot of outside painting over the years. I use plenty of course sandpaper, good quality filler and wood hardener where necessary, then brand X undercoat followed by a top coat of Dulux Once.
Looks mighty pretty and lasts about 2.5 years.
|
>>I have replaced with white finish aluminium.
Since the OP is talking about roofline.....
|
|
You can still buy lead-based paints from traditional marine chandlers.
|
Could I suggest that you have a damp problem under there?
Damp could be getting under the bottom or edge of the tiles and then getting behind the paint where you cannot see it and the wood is untreated.
Where the tiles meet the gutters often the felt rots away. You can get plastic sheeting with a lip that slides under the bottom tiles and the lip sits in the gutter.
Where tiles finish on an edge the gap is pointed with mortar which cracks and can allow water in.
If your timber is damp paint wont stick.
Some UPVC outfits stick the plastic on top of the original facias and soffits which is ok but then damp wood is trapped behind and will rot.
|
>>Some UPVC outfits stick the plastic on top of the original facias and soffits which is ok but then damp wood is trapped behind and will rot.
Don't even think about this approach.
Sounds like a modernish building, so the likelihood is that the timber originally used was pretty poor - generally just good enough to last the 10yr new build guarantee.
Fullchat is right about a possible damp problem. It does look like a classic case of the sarking felt 'ponding' from water egress via tiles/guttering and then depositing this water into the cavity between the fascia and soffit. No amount of repainting is going to help this!
You can get diy plastic sheet sections to replace the felt, but in all honesty at this point you will be protecting something which is too far gone to realistically save long term.
Get some quotes to replace it in pvcu.
Everest will be more expensive, but they will automatically replace the sarking felt with an over fascia plastic section which also allows for full ventilation of the roof space. They will also repair/replace any rotting rafter feet so the new fascia boards are fixed to something solid. Meaningful 20yr guarantee. BBA approved and BSI registered installation standard. It's a proper job.
Advert over.....:-)
|
Totally agree with Fullchat and EP.
For paint to detach " in sheets" like this in a sheltered area it has to be damp causing it.
EP spells out what is required. IMO there are no short fixes or short cuts to sort it.
|
|
Can support the fact that Everest's warranty works after ten years !
|
The ten year guarantee on our replacement roof trim expired quite a while back. A first class installation by another well known DG company, and, so far, we've not had to contact their service department.
Trying to paint that far up a ladder was never my idea of fun!
|
|
Do everest do brown wood look upvc doors and windows?
|
|
Certainly do, and the windows are 'A' rated energy efficiency as standard too.
|
Painting external woodwork - Dog
