In my cottage there are 4 lights in the hall (which runs the length of the building, about 60ft).
The first two lights are operated by a switch near the front door, the farthest two are operated by a switch near the back door, and in the middle is a double switch that can turn on/off both pairs of lights.
When I turn on the farthest from front door lights with either of the switches it immediately trips the breaker and all the lights go off - assuming it turn the switch back off I can reset the breaker and the first circuit works fine.
Sooooo…. where's the short circuit likely to be?
I have taken the switches apart and the wiring is sound, the light fittings (pendant types)appear to be ok although I haven't removed them from their wires - removing the 2 bulbs doesn't stop the breaker tripping if I then try turning it on again.
I hope that's a vaguely clear description!
Any ideas before I call a sparky?
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Taking the bulb out is not stopping the issue because the short circuit remains.
It's usually in the bulb holder. Or close to it.
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>>It's usually in the bulb holder. Or close to it.
Thanks - I guess that makes sense - will take my steps down next time I'm there and take the pendants apart.
Suppose the other possibility would be mice biting through the wiring but not any evidence of recent rodent activity.
Maybe I should get a multimeter as per the other thread!
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The multi meter will tell you that you have a short. You already know that.
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P.s. rodents chewing cables certainly happens, but not as often as people would have you think.
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Last rodent issue I had was 5 or 6 years ago when they bit through the drain pipe at the back of a dishwasher in my main home.
That was fun to come home to.
Got 2 cats now - guess what? Only mice we ever see are dismembered ones in the middle of the hall every couple of months.
Pre-cats we would often see one trundle past in the hall while watching TV.
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How old is the wiring? If you have incandescent bulbs in the pendants the insulation of the wiring in the fittings can become brittle over time due to the heat and begin to break down. Same thing happened in our old house - not helped by the fact that the previous occupant had installed an extra 13A socket in the dining room connected to the hallway lighting circuit.
If the insulation has become brittle, it's a good idea to replace the pendants because they will probably be heat damaged as well.
Could also be damp in a junction box of course.
>Maybe I should get a multimeter as per the other thread!
Nah! It's mains voltage. All you need is a wet finger.
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>>All you need is a wet finger.
Good plan - best way to test the 400V DC output of my EV battery....
>>If you have incandescent bulbs in the pendants the insulation of the wiring in the fittings can become brittle over time due to the heat and begin to break down
Had the cottage since 2012 and bulbs are fluoro-tube style ones (~20W) but were incandescent ones when we moved in.
Think I'll stump up the tenner for a couple of new pendants and see how it goes!
If that's the problem I'll do the others also.
Wiring is about 15-20 years old as far as I know.
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I don't know how extensive your electrical knowledge is Lygonos but this diagram may help you understand how 2 way switches are wired. Its helped me no end.
tinyurl.com/y6n4n69q
As I understand it you have 2 pairs of 2 way switches. Each pair of switches will/should be linked by 4 core cable. 1 of each pair of switches will have a 2 wires in L1 and L2 as opposed to just 1 in the other switch.
L1 and L2 are just the switch break in the live feed for the light. Neutral is a continuous link between each light fitting as is the main positive loop.
I would be looking to change the pendant fittings and light switches on the rear circuit in the first instance before looking to check for rodent damage.
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Sorry edit time beat me.
Replace the light fitting first and if no joy try the switch. The fitting is where Pos Neg and Earth come together as well as the main lighting loop circuit and its a bit tight for space.
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Faulty lighting circuit - No FM2R
