Set of blinds for a brand new window.
PVC surround
I have been allocated the task of putting the blinds up which are secured with 5 brackets that are mounted on the top of the inner frame which is UPVC.
I would rather it drill into this as would then need to probably put plugs on Inside it.
Would prefer to "stick" them to the UPVC, prefer it even more if this could be an adhesive which is strong enough but would come off if ever needed to be removed.
Any ideas?
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If you're attaching to a window frame profile, then it is likely that it will have a metal subframe which, if drilled, will take self-tapping screws, of the appropriate length, for a solid fit.
Problem is, unless you have a sample piece, you're not going to know until you do a test-drill. :-(
I was talking to a friend only two days ago who has mounted to the face of the frame in just such a way (into the underlying metal) only to find that the blind hits the window handle when raised. I've advised him to get some longer brackets (which are available).
There is an implication in your post, however that you're effectively mounting in some other way ("mounted on the top of the inner frame") could be interpreted in many different ways. If it is "mounted to the (face of) the top of the frame, then my comment above applies, if not, then your best bet is probably an adhesive sealant, but any success would depend on the area that it could be applied to on the brackets, and the geometry of the fitting. You might get away with such an adhesive if you were applying to a horizontal plane (i.e. glueing the brackets to the upper face of the window return, with the blind hanging below, but I'd be wary of using adhesive if the weight of the blind is going to apply a "torque" to the adhesive (as it would if you were mounting to the face of the window frame).
Something like "Wurth Bond and Seal" is (from experience) very strong and available in white, it is, however, so strong it is not easy to remove ;-)
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I got them installed. I got the curtains made and installed too. Can't be yarrsed with it. Too many cock ups available!!!
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Hot melt glue is strong and can be released with alcohol. Many upvc window frames have a square steel tube inside which will hold a self tapping screw. Personally I would not attach anything to a upvc window. My blinds are fitted to the top of the internal frame which is wood, this allows clearance for the handles.
These are mine.
www.koemmerling.com/uk/en/products/window-residential-door-systems/70-mm-systems/c70-gold-window-door-system/standard-7/
Last edited by: Old Navy on Thu 20 Jul 17 at 22:09
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>>Personally I would not attach anything to a upvc window.
My feelings exactly. My friend had resorted to mounting to the frame due to the presence of a steel lintel.
I also have steel lintels, and I know from bitter experience that they can blunt even a decent HSS drill bit pretty quickly. ;-)
Nonetheless, mine are all mounted in the window return, and not to the frame.
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I seem to have my terminology wrong, my blinds are fitted to the top of the reveal. My windows have an internal oak reveal and frame.
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Not sure if my terminology or description was correct.
If you are standing inside looking at your window, in front of you is the sill which is upvc. At each side of the sill are the verticals and then across the top is the bit I am talking about. If that makes sense?
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Do you want to attach to the top of the recess that the window is in, as in vertically up into the lintle ?
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>> Yes
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It's unusual for that to be uPVC, (normally plastered) though often a quadrant or square trim is added against the frame for finishing purposes. Normally, brackets would need to be mounted somewhat away from the window to avoid handles, etc.
The best way of mounting is to screw (and plug if necessary) but it is quite likely you will hit a (the) lintel, either concrete or metal, and will need a good drill and bit.
If mounting in that plane, then, as already mentioned a good quality adhesive sealant might work, especially if, as you say, the mounting surface is uPVC and well-fixed. (mounting to plaster would always have the risk of pulling the surface away).
Such adhesives are used to fix solar panel mounts to motorcaravan roofs, so are capable of taking significant weights under challenging circumstances, though, in your case, the brackets would need to be carefully aligned when fixing, and left to cure for 24/48 hours before use.
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We're having 2 white roller blinds fitted tomorrow to our patio window which is 8 X 8 feet. One side slides but on the outside. It's South facing and the Sun gets in your eyes watching telly. We can roll one or both down just enough to kill the glare and save making the room dark by using the curtains. I would fit them to the three verticals with self tappers but they may be too bulky rolled up for that. |There's very little wood frame exposed, maybe just an inch all round and above is a steel lintel. Anyway, the supplier is having them fitted by someone we know and has already done work for us. I'll not interfere and see what he does. Much easier to do a bank transfer than all that hard work.
Especially as I've just cut the outer sill off as it was rotting at the ends. It's about 35 years since we had the window fitted and the sill has never taken paint well. I think it's some sort of redwood. I've fitted a softwood sill which will take paint and will see us out anyway
I'll report on his method tomoz.
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Hi Teddy,
A hardwood that takes paint very well is Idigbo.
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Sorry Bobby I pottered off to bed, there will probably be a wooden filler that the upvc is attached to, if not it could be stone, brick, or as said above steel. I would drill a tiny hole at one end and find out what is behind the upvc.
I wimped out an got a local blind company to supply and fit my blinds. :-)
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I've always had them installed - Always screwed to the frames. Never any problem. I suspect that the ones here were done by the previous occupier - they were very tight into the frames - very. I basically ripped them out as the windows were going to be replaced - they were very strongly installed with no apparent harm to the UPVC. The conservatory here has later doors and windows and they have blinds integrally built into the internal frames - attached to the beading - thy work well and seem to clip in.
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Mine are fitted to small clips and easily removed. The blinds are about 5mm narrower than the recess.
Last edited by: Old Navy on Fri 21 Jul 17 at 08:58
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Measure 38 times drill once !
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>> Measure 38 times drill once !
Drill slips, scratches surface, hits hand, blood stains surface, drill breaks in hand, casualty wait 10 hours.
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>> Hi Teddy,
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>> A hardwood that takes paint very well is Idigbo.
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Hi, Marty...
Thanks for that...job done now and all sealed with good quality silicone and 3 coats of pain. It will last us out and be easy to replace in years to come.
If ever we live that long !
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" It's about 35 years since we had the window fitted "
Be warned - are the glass panels toughened? If you have violent grandchildren or are reaching the age point of impaired vertical stability, breaking, by falling, against a non-t pane would be frightening.
The burglar that smashed my al framed glazed back door was fortunate that the shards did not leave bulk DNA samples. SOCO was almost disappointed.
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Cut a piece of wood (Slate batten 2"x 1/2") a tight fit to the window width, paint it white, screw the brackets to this, then tap firmly into place at the top of window using a bit of silicone sealant to help hold it. When you then fit the blinds you will not see this wood too much, and it can easily be removed later without leaving any marks on the frame.
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Well, my man with the drill came at lunchtime and fitted two 8 X 4 roller blinds to the patio windows. Superb job, used the method I would have done...self taps to the top horizontal UPVC rail. I didn't interfere. I was in the garage fitting a new timing chain to the car.
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Metal bracket to UPVC frame - tyrednemotional
