I have 5l unopened synthetic 5w30. Is this a suitable substitute for "light machine oil" for lubrication purposes?
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Might prove a rather expensive form of "light machine oil"..:-)
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>> Lubricating what?
'Light machine' - torch?
Getting coat...
Last edited by: Focusless on Thu 5 Jun 14 at 11:13
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Even a syn engine oil is heavier than most light machine oils. Fine for a hinge and many other applications (it's what I have in my trigger can) but for something like a clock or other old machinery possibly too heavy.
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used to be sold in a small squashy tin and called "Three in One" ISTR www.3inone.com/products/multi-purpose/
Last edited by: Meldrew on Thu 5 Jun 14 at 12:33
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>> used to be sold in a small squashy tin and called "Three in One" ISTR
>> www.3inone.com/products/multi-purpose/
Or sewing machine oil, engine oil would be a bit thick for that job too. OK on a bicycle chain though.
Soak chain in oil, allow to drip dry and then wipe off excess with a lint free cloth.
Not as good as a dedicated chain lube but much better than the nothing a lot of cyclists seem to use.
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Oil is oil to me. If it stops something squeaking or allows smoother movement then it'll do.
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Won't do a mechanical watch any good!
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>> Oil is oil to me. If it stops something squeaking or allows smoother movement then
>> it'll do.
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Is that a direct quote from your car service manual?
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Yep... engine oil can stop an antique clock very quickly.
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>> Is that a direct quote from your car service manual?
lol, not quite.
I meant in respects of general household applications, eg, a squeaky hinge, or stiff lock.
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I once used 3 in One to lube the mountain bikes. Big mistake, huge in fact !
All the crud, mud, vegetation, dust and sand just stuck to all the coated areas. Mainly chain and derailleur system naturally but also the cranks and wheel bearings.
Took ages to clean them off afterwards. I had run out of my favoured product ( GT40 ) which is better than chain lube in my experience for not attracting contaminants.
Only downside with GT40 is that it doesn't last long in use. You're lucky to get 30 miles of off-road running out of it and certainly need to re-apply before each new run. It doesn't 'spray' off either unlike normal oil. If oil gets onto your disc brake pads on a bike you are well stuffed on the next steep descent and the pads are pretty much permanently knackered.
Some folk take them off and boil them to remove oil impregnation but I've never found them quite right after that.
When you're hammering down the side of an unfeasably steep hill on a loose surface festooned with nasty hard trees and rocks you really want your brakes to function as intended !
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Stuartli, it's free. 3 in 1 costs £1.
I'll be spending that £1.
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Try an EasyGrease aerosol from Poundland - highly effective, especially on door locks, hinges etc (including cars), but doesn't stain clothes or skin.
Save the expensive synthetic for its proper purpose...!!!
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"especially on door locks"
My late uncle used to reckon that a puff of powdered graphite was the best thing for lubricating door-locks because, unlike oil, it didn't attract dust.
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Agreed. But like other black dusts, it gets everywhere!
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For a lock - yes powdered graphite is the thing, but you only need a very small amount on the pins of a lock. A puffer is ideal and how the stuff is usually sold I think.
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>>Try an EasyGrease aerosol
No. Grease is not oil. Whilst both are lubricants, they have different functions.
The three purposes of lubrication are:
To reduce friction
To reduce wear
To prevent corrosion
The second one shows the difference between oil and grease. Oil flows, and drips out of the machine, taking swarf and grit with it. Grease stays put, leaving the grit there.
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>>> Oil flows, and drips out of the machine>>
I don't want oil dripping into my car or the house interior area - EasyGrease lubricates splendidly, is very clean as stated and it's been the same over many years of using it...:-) The areas for which it is used are basically concealed.
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"light machine oil" - Bromptonaut
