I am thinking of getting a basic mountain bike again for causal use on gravel tracks etc. I have a lock up to store it in but I have seen a good one for £160 the problem is its only 18" frame size with 26" wheels.
I am just under 6ft (5 foot ten) will an 18" bike be comfortable enough for causual use?
|
The only way to know is to try it. Frames vary in lots of ways as well as nominal length of seat tube. Also the arrangement of the handlebar stem has a lot of influence.
I am 5' 9" and ride a 17" Specialized Rockhopper. The seat pillar is up near the maximum but provides a lot of "standover clearance" which keeps my voice low after tumbles on the rough stuff ! If anything the handlebars are a bit too far forward for me unless I'm riding very seriously.
|
|
Come on Rattle we can't know what you'll find OK.... you have to sit on one. It was easier to judge in the old days when bikes all were roughly the same shape with a crossbar for gents. Now frames are all sorts of odd shapes and folks measure them in odd ways too.
|
If you are intending mainly off road use, you mention gravel tracks for example, the slightly small frame will be to your advantage. Especially so if you start getting a bit adventurous such as jumping or rougher tracks. Could actually help to keep your voice as nature intended....
If this is not too personal a question, what's your inside leg measurement?
|
i suggest you buy a bakers bike with the basket on the front
this way you can claim it on business expenses as you get fit and cycle to customers houses
you can even advertise on the side of the basket
"""""""""""""""""""""rattle computer repairs no ram too small to fix""""""""""""""""""
|
I won't use it on the road, my lock up is actually only 2 mins push away from the local countryside.
I am 34" inside leg measurement.
I will just try it but I can see the advantage. I often tend to stand up too to get a bit of power up. I will be riding over bumpy ground and minor hills etc. A valley basically.
I will also no doubt be using it by canals and proper tarmac cycle paths.
Will go down to Halfords again tomorrow and have a go on the 18" frame one.
Thanks for your advice.
|
****** cut and paste when required ****************
I have fallen off my bike and broken my elbow again
My bike has been stolen
How do i fix punctures
My chain is broken how do you fix it
my bike has been stolen
***********************************************
|
|
Hmm... it is borderline small for your inside leg. It'll be OK though. If you can be bothered to seek out or wait for a 19" to come along in the spec you want it might suit you better in the long term.
|
|
There is a good cycle place in Stockport (outskirts) near the 'Adidas factory' on the way to Bredbury.
|
|
Good bikes, like good shoes are worth paying a bit extra for and getting one which fits you properly is similarly important.
Last edited by: Humph D'bout on Sat 27 Feb 10 at 19:57
|
Rattle,
A £160 mountain bike is unlikely to be up to much.
But if you can double that, you're into useful machinery.
Makes to look out for include Specialised, Trek, Marin, and GT.
Take a look here: tinyurl.com/yff6fpw
They have a couple of 'old model' Treks for around £250 which would be much better bikes than a £160 Halfords special.
There's also some stuff on the site about bike sizing.
Last edited by: ifithelps on Sat 27 Feb 10 at 20:34
|
Rattle, the only way to know is to sit on the bikes and try and have a wee cycle round.
I have 2 Specialised bikes and the frame size is M/L even though I am only 29" inside leg.
But when I tried a Giant it was a small frame that fitted me.
You really need to try them, wear the clothing and trainers you will wear on the bike and try and get a cycle round.
alood bike shops will know about posture, technique, angles etc. Most Halfords won't be able to do that for you in my experience
|
|
According to this bicycling.about.com/od/howtoride/a/bike_sizing.htm you need a 56 cm to 58 cm frame size. Your inseam length is more important than your height.
Last edited by: L'escargot on Sun 28 Feb 10 at 07:26
|
That's for road bikes.
The last time I bought a bike, I got thoroughly confused. There used to be just one type of bike and the frame size, IIRC, was measured from the bottom bracket (the bit the pedals turn on) to the top of the tube just under the seat. With mountain bikes, it appears the bottom bracket is higher for improved ground clearance. I was taught you need to straighten the leg as far as possible when pedalling. There's a compromise with being able to put your foot down when stopped. Mountain bikes make this worse.
I thought I wanted a road bike, but when I looked around I realised I didn't want dropped bars and narrow, high pressure tyres. I certainly didn't intend cycling up mountains. 'Sir requires a hybrid' I was told. That appears to be a mountain bike frame (no thank you) with mudguards, rear rack and fat tyres a little less knobbly.
It took me quite a time to find a 'conventional' bike, with the bottom bracket where I wanted it, sensible tyres (700 x 35) and suitable for road and cycle path use. I still got a dozen more gears than I think I need.
|
You are MUCH MUCH better spending £200 on a second hand bike than £160 on a new one.
Don't worry about having a slightly small frame, it works to your advantage unless you're riding hundreds of miles.
|
We usually have 4 or 5 mountain bikes in the shed. EBay is our friend and I mostly go for £250 bikes that come for £60 or so. They usually need £20 spending to get A1 then you have damn good value in a tidy if not immaculate machine.
The trick is to make sure you don't bid £60 on one that's only an £85 bike new!
|
18" mountain bike - big enough? - crocks
