The fixings that come with wall units for the new kitchens look like this
www.screwfix.com/p/nylon-cabinet-brackets-with-mounting-plate-pack-of-10/91611
Are two of these really enough to support the weight of a cabinet? They seem a bit flimsy to me, if that metal clip snaps the entire unit will fall down and they weight between 18 and 35kg depending on the size.
I don't really want to use shelf type brackets as they look ugly and that would make the entire thing look cheap.
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What are they attached to and how?
Brick will be different to lath and plasterboard.
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>> What are they attached to and how?
>>
>> Brick will be different to lath and plasterboard.
If you plan to hang them on stud walls the screws have to go into the stud work not the plasterboard. Better not to hang them on stud walls at all.
Last edited by: Zero on Wed 29 Jan 14 at 21:17
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Yes they are suitable. All mine are hung with just two of those, inc the double units. The clip does not break. All you need to do is make sure you have a good clean hole of the right size with good rawlplugs of the right size into the blockwork and not just the plaster.
Last edited by: Zero on Wed 29 Jan 14 at 21:16
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Rats. The metal clip will be fine. When you fix it to the wall make sure that you use the right drill size, plug size combination. DON'T use a size 4 screw, use a 5 or in imperial measurement a 10 gauge. 75mm x 5 will usually be fine into a red Rawlplug . Use a 6mm drill bit if the wall is in a sound condition and perhaps a 5.5 if the background is soft. If the background is too soft then revert here or to me via the mods. Just ask.
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Thanks, will be going into brick.
Brick is solid and in good condition but the plaster is a bit iffy, I had to dot and dab the lower part of the wall, but the plaster on the upper part where this unit is going is in much better condition and is solid not plasterboard.
I just hope my new cheapo £36 750w B&D hammer drill is upto the job but if the drill just lasts for this project I will happy as it is under warranty anyway. I have learnt the hard way that always always screw everything into bricks and not plaster. The plaster in this house barely supports a canvas picture :D.
Last edited by: RattleandSmoke on Wed 29 Jan 14 at 22:08
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My kitchen wall cabinets are held up with brackets like that. SWMBO has so much crockery stuffed in them I'm amazed they hold, but they do.
I'm sure there'll be an almighty crash one day.
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Risk is in modern houses like mine where stud partitions are mixed with blockwork external/structural walls.
Latter are plastered with a light skim over plasterboard secured to breeze block with 'dabs'. Need to go through plasterboard and ensure plugs are firmly in blocks. For heavy items I drill oversize in plasterboard, ensure plug is firmly in block and use over length screws to ensure proper key into 'remote' plug.
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Won't be a problem here as it is a solid brick wall the trick is of course is to make sure the raw plugs are secured enough into the brick. I will also use my cable detector, although I am drilling into a safe zone, it only 1.5 inches away from the safe zone for the light switch so need to be very careful just in case.
I assume all professional kitchen fitters just use these brackets or would they use something different?
Last edited by: RattleandSmoke on Wed 29 Jan 14 at 22:59
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>> My kitchen wall cabinets are held up with brackets like that. SWMBO has so much
>> crockery stuffed in them I'm amazed they hold, but they do.
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>> I'm sure there'll be an almighty crash one day.
Same here !
HO
>>
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When I fitted my kitchen in 2009 I used these brackets. I used 2" x 10 round headed screws as the flat surface under the head gave more grip on the face of the bracket than countersunk ones.
HO
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Very good tip that Ted, a flat head will have a much greater surface area to will make a better contact with the bracket.
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Thanks I will try it anyway, only hanging a 400mm unit tomorrow, I am a long way of hanging the 1000m ones. Hoping to have the project done by the end of Feb. Taken a week just to get one wall ready, but that is working part time and has included concreting a big void in the floor where the old unit was, (the old unit was fitted into the wall, and the rest of the floor must have been concreted over since leaving a big avoid of about 3 inches to fill in), dot and dabbed a couple of walls where plaster fell off.
Built just two units which are going on this wall, no point on building the rest due to space.
The next big job will be plumbing but need two days off for that and been mad busy with my day job lately. Been working about 12-14 hours a day doing kitchen and my full time job but it amazing I don't feel tired. Normally I get quite tired but it must have been boredom causing it!.
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I had to move some wall units in a friends kitchen and the person who had originally installed it had put wooden strapping along the wall that had these types of hooks in them and the wall units basically just hung from the strapping.
Actually made a pain in the neck job very simple!
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If you think about the forces on those mounts, they're actually pretty strong.
With three 2" #10 screws (absolutely agree) then your plate is very securely attached to the wall.
Then you've got the hook that fits over it. The geometry of the hook as it sits over the plate is such that it isn't going to 'uncurl'.
You tighten it up a bit using a screw; this isn't part of what's holding it up, it's just part of what's making sure it doesn't come off the hook.
The weakest point in a kitchen unit hanging cupboard is probably where the sides attach to the top; or where they attach to the bottom.
I see you've bought a 1000mm hanging unit. I'd always buy two 500mm units as the shelves don't bow. And you've twice as many points attaching them to the walls. Too late now, and you're selling the house so it doesn't really matter.
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Selling the house isn't certain, my parents want to buy a detached out of a terraced and I don't see the maths working. My feeling is they could end up in a rough area, at least at the moment all we have is bad neighbours who are hopefully moving soon.
Good idea about buying two 500mm units, would work out quite a lot more expensive though but it is a very good idea.
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My feeling is they could end up
>> in a rough area,
You already live in a rough area.....however, we on the other side of Manchester Road......well, you know the rest :-)
HO
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>> Good idea about buying two 500mm units, would work out quite a lot more expensive
>> though but it is a very good idea.
Downside however is that you do lose bit of cupboard space.
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Singles are also much easier to hang as they don't weigh anything like as much as doubles.
Last edited by: smokie on Thu 30 Jan 14 at 17:22
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>> Singles are also much easier to hang as they don't way weigh anything like as much as doubles.
At a guess, they're half the weight ;)
I'm not feeble though, so lifting a double unit is easy.
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>>I'm not feeble though, so lifting a double unit is easy.
Yes; it's not impossible. But the turning moments make it considerably more awkward.
Thanks for pointing out the horrible homophone; would you mind editing it for me pretty please, nice Mr Mod.
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they don't weight that much without the shelves in and doors on.
You should try hanging a 500mm/500mm corner unit!
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>> I see you've bought a 1000mm hanging unit. I'd always buy two 500mm units as
>> the shelves don't bow. And you've twice as many points attaching them to the walls.
>> Too late now, and you're selling the house so it doesn't really matter.
My Whickes 1000mm unit does not have bowing shelves, because it has a support bracket in the back panel at the half way point.
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If you have difficult walls with fixing points that are prone to break out and you cannot get fixings where the bracket needs to be, use
tinyurl.com/pllct5r
Also useful for plasterboard where you can locate studs but they are not in the correct place.
It also has the added benefit that the top of all the cupboards line up and are straight ( level if you got it in the right place)!
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Sherlock: that's *very* cool indeed.
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Except of course a run of that does not sit behind the slight recess in the cupboard, and will make the cupboard sides much prone from the wall.
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>>and will make the cupboard sides much prone from the wall. <<
a 3-4mm gap, and looking at the state of the brickwork that maybe an advantage! Similarly how good is R&S plastering? and it is only visible at an open end.
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Are these fixings really enough to support weight? - Bromptonaut
