Non-motoring > DIY - SOS Miscellaneous
Thread Author: borasport Replies: 12

 DIY - SOS - borasport
Well it's not that bad, decoration proceeds and the results aren't looking to shoddy, but....

Inevitably one stores all ones supplies and equipment in that purpose built repository, the garage, and the powered up-and-over garage door is banjaxed.


It proved pretty difficult to get it down, it was skewed to one side and forcing it down was taking some paint off one side of the frame - on the side that was hanging low, there was a frayed cable which I presume was part of the mechanism that lifts/lowers it.

Its currently closed, access to the garage involves climbing on a wheelie bin and clambering through a window :-) but does the team think if I disconnected the mechanism it should still function as a manual door in the short term (examining the mechanism it looks like it was on the way out, rollers cutting a groove in the doorposts rather than in the runners, so it's got to go one way or another)
 DIY - SOS - Old Navy
Sounds like the door not the power operator, which requires a smoothly moving door to work. Like most things, fix it early = easy, leave it = hard.
 DIY - SOS - Zero

>> Its currently closed, access to the garage involves climbing on a wheelie bin and clambering
>> through a window :-) but does the team think if I disconnected the mechanism it
>> should still function as a manual door in the short term (

Only course of action here is SIAS. But I guess the door slides/rollers/balance is now AFU so if the motor cant cope I doubt human power will without some modification to the door hardware.
 DIY - SOS - borasport
I suppose the critical factor is whether or not the snapped cable is part of the standard door mechanism or part of the power mechanism
Must pay a visit to the neighbours to see what theirs looks like
 DIY - SOS - Old Navy
Forget the power operator until the door works smoothly. You say it has dropped on one side, the rollers are gouging the frame, and there is a broken cable. The power operator will not cope with that. Fix the door, then sort the operator if it requires it.
Last edited by: Old Navy on Sun 8 Sep 13 at 18:44
 DIY - SOS - borasport
Hmmm
Bit of yougle and gootube suggests its part of the door mechanism
Its always been part of the plan to replace the door as we never use the garage for putting cars away and the single remote for the mechanism cant (legally) be replaced - it operates on the frequency now used by the emergency services
Time to investigate the options, it would be nice to have some sort of folding option with an inset door, then the garage doesnt fill with leaves every autumn and there is less chance of any paint job turning into a flies graveyard
 DIY - SOS - Old Navy
>> Hmmm

>> Time to investigate the options, it would be nice to have some sort of folding
>> option with an inset door, then the garage doesnt fill with leaves every autumn and
>> there is less chance of any paint job turning into a flies graveyard
>>

I have one of these, good kit!

www.hormann.co.uk/garage-doors/sectional-doors/
 DIY - SOS - Armel Coussine
Proper sidehung doors are best, with bolts and a lock. These up-and-over things are awful when they go wrong, even hand-operated ones. Roller blinds are bad too because they get stiff and rusty in the end when not maintained which of course they never are.

The ideal place for cars is an enormous high-roofed barn big enough to be left open at one end while remaining weatherproof inside. Wouldn't mind one of those.
 DIY - SOS - Fenlander
Ideally AC you're right. When I built the workshop at our last place about 17yrs ago I bought some ex-industrial wooden doors with huge strap hinges and fitted up for a 1/3rd & 2/3rds opening. Made for a lovely heavy smooth opening system.

Now we have an "ordinary" house with two clanky up and overs.

Re the huge open barns I've bought loads of farm gear from such places. Often covered with the dust of harvests from years ago but so well preserved.
 DIY - SOS - AnotherJohnH
if the cable one side is frayed through it may well be possible to replace both cables, but, having replaced a pair of garage door cables this year I can say it involves research, great care, a bit of muscle, and a pair of gardening gloves which were thrown away afterwards.

I also needed a pair of steel pins to lock the central spring drum mechanism while the cables were replaced.

YMMV.

BTW cost was £10 from OnlineGarageDoorSpares | Solarvis Energy through Amazon.
 DIY - SOS - madf
We have three up and over garage doors. I have religiously serviced them every 3-4 years by derusting metal, greasing moving bits and ensuring everything works properly. Now 40 + years old. And original. At least two are used daily - every day we are in residence.(garage holds all gardening tools as well as cars.
Last edited by: madf on Mon 9 Sep 13 at 11:58
 DIY - SOS - Old Navy
One of the biggest killers of garage door moving parts is grease mixed with wind blown block paving sand. If you have block paving use tiny amounts of oil.
 DIY - SOS - madf
>> One of the biggest killers of garage door moving parts is grease mixed with wind
>> blown block paving sand. If you have block paving use tiny amounts of oil.
>>

Thanks.
Tarmacadam here... and loads of grit and leaves and
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