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OK folks, I have a big birthday coming up. I have always had a yen to visit Northumberland but not made it yet. We're therefore planning an all-to-brief couple of days there in mid-May, so I'm looking for some ideas on where to stay and what I shouldn't miss on this brief 3 night/2 full day visit. Looking for perhaps some decent walks, bit of sightseeing, perhaps the odd historic pile. Looking to stay somewhere cosy & typical, perhaps a pub, don't need a hotel with stars. Thoughts?
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Some random suggestions:
Consider accommodation in Corbridge, or Hexham - both nice towns.
Visit Hadrian's Wall, Vindolanda, Alnwick Castle and gardens, Bamburgh Castle, Cragside House.
Others with better knowledge will no doubt add to this.
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Did it a couple of years back when Rauol Moat was rampaging about the place.
Plenty of good hotels round Alnwick. Forget the castle there, too touristy and overpriced. Bamborough is good, Cragside House is a must, One of the forts on Hadrians Wall, and you must visit Barter Book shop at Alnwick. Trip to Lindisfarne over the tidal causeway.
All the beaches are stunning
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>> and you must visit Barter Book shop at Alnwick
That wouldn't be the one with all the train-related stuff in it, would it? ;-)
We stayed in self-catering accommodation at Beacon Hill, a few miles from Morpeth, last year.
Quiet with an excellent little gym/spa/swimming pool.
When we arrived the owner took great delight in zooming us around in his golf buggy to show us the site.
www.beaconhill.co.uk/
Last edited by: Lygonos on Tue 5 Mar 13 at 22:34
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>> >> and you must visit Barter Book shop at Alnwick
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>> That wouldn't be the one with all the train-related stuff in it, would it? ;-)
No. Even tho its in the Old Alnwick Station.
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I thought there were some little model railways running around at ceiling height when I was in there last year: maybe I just imagined it or my memory is crossed with some other gaff with wee trains!
Oh and after looking at the Beacon Hill site it seems heavily booked up and no weekend/midweek availability just now.
Last edited by: Lygonos on Tue 5 Mar 13 at 22:38
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>> I thought there were some little model railways running around at ceiling height when I
>> was in there last year: maybe I just imagined it or my memory is crossed
>> with some other gaff with wee trains!
It does, but it has a crap train book section.
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>> and you must visit Barter Book shop at Alnwick
More overpriced tat I haven't seen in a long time. Not impressed. According to some friends from the North East, Barter Books was originally much better both in terms of stock quality and value, but has deteriorated as it has become more popular.
I agree though that Cragside is worth a visit.
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Great area. Don't tell everybody. Make it a week if you can.
Some places I like -
- Barter Books in Alnwick, in the old railway station. (I agree the books are overpriced, but browse free, sit by the fire, eat in the cafe...)
- the John Bull in Alnwick for a beer.
- Rothbury (good shoe shop, nice place, good cafe - Tomlinsons cafe & Bunkhouse, Queens Head)
- the Star at Netherton for a beer (unique)
- Cragside, a big house owned by the NT, near Rothbury
- The Red Lion, Alnmouth (food & accomm)
- The Tankerville Arms, Eglingham (food & accomm)
- The Ship Inn, Low Newton (no accommodation, nice for a beer when you've been walking on the beach, see below)
- Tynemouth - market in the old station, Sat & Sun.
- Lindisfarne Castle - a 16th castle made into a holiday cottage by Lutyens, also NT.
- a walk to Dunstanburgh Castle to blow the cobwebs away (no road access, you have to park by the golf course and walk)
- walking on Embleton beach
The Alnwick Garden might appeal (not to me but it's a major attraction).
Last edited by: Manatee on Tue 5 Mar 13 at 23:04
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...lots of s/h books at Tynemouth market as well.
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>> Some places I like -
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>> - The Red Lion, Alnmouth (food & accomm)
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Thanks Manatee, currently looking at 3 nights at the Red Lion. Problem is that we have to work our trip around being in places as wide apart as Northumbria, Cardiff and Portsmouth, and in addition there are specific dates/days when we need to be in them! It's not fun living out of a suitcase for 2 weeks.
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If beach walks are your thing start from Cresswell and head North...Druridge Bay (CND c. 1979, Lockerbie Flight 103 landing sight not meant in a macabre way but gives you an idea of the scale of the disaster), Warkworth, Alnmouth, basically all the way up to Berwick if castles are your thing.
Dinner at Newton on the Moor (Cook and Barker).
Hill walking? Start in Wooler and head for the end of the Pennine Way at Kirk Yetholm in the Cheviots.
Read history book before you go.
Winter's Gibbet near Elsdon, if that's your thing. One of longest pieces of straight (not smooth) pieces if road in the land.
Drive into the North Sea at Lindesfarne (Holy Island) - Please stick to the times, the tide does not negotiate! You drive into a sea YOU WILL DIE, be warned...
Cragside might be a bit of a disaster this year, the approach road from the South is basically cream crackered for the year, the B6344 was washed away this winter near Cragend Farm, all traffic approaching Rothbury from the East must do so from the B6341 which will mean a RPITA during high season unless the County Council and Cragside come up with an alternative way of handling the Cragside traffic...
Last edited by: gmac on Tue 5 Mar 13 at 23:43
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Forgot to mention Sheakespear's tetralogy is also based around the area.
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Spend Friday night down the Bigg Market in Newcastle...we catch the last Metro back to the airport and walk the rest of the way to Ponteland when I stay at my friends house.
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If your party includes children they might be interested in the boat trips to the Farne Islands from Seahouses; not expensive and a chance to see seals also puffins and other sea-birds and an excellent chippy too, for lunch.
The Hogshead Inn just East of the A1 at Aknwick is a good new hotel, room rates are fair and if you aren't staying there the food and beer are good anyway.
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I can't believe I failed to mention Lindisfarne. I also enjoyed the boat trip to the Farne Islands.
As for Alnwick Garden, it is of course a matter of personal taste, but if you're into gardening in the grand style (as in the stately homes of the past) and want to see a modern take on it, it is unmissable. Described in Wikipedia as "...the most ambitious new garden created in the United Kingdom since the Second World War, with a reported total development cost of £42 million", features include the Cascade, the Poison Garden and the Tree House.
Sorry to bang on about it - I just love this sort of thing!
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I mentioned the garden because it is a major development - but unless I was a garden nut I wouldn't do it if I only had a weekend - it's expensive at £12 each plus a parking charge and you'll want to spend some time there to get your money's worth.
The boss is a garden nut, and didn't find it particularly interesting - the cascade is a spectacle but you can only look at it for so long. You get a guided walk around the Poison Garden where they try their best to sensationalise some everyday-looking plants surrounded by dramatic black wrought iron fencing. The Tree House is a bit Disney and is basically some expensive fast food outlets as far as I could see. We probably didn't get the best of it as it was raining like stair rods all the time we were there.
Never linger much in Alnwick - usually have a lunch break at Barter if we are in the area, and sometimes a beer.
We sometimes have fish and chips in Seahouses too. Or sometimes a meal and a pint at the Ship Inn.
It's my 60th this year - I might steal the idea myself, there are few parts of the UK I like better.
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>> It's my 60th this year - I might steal the idea myself, there are few
>> parts of the UK I like better.
Its a fantastic area, well up there with the best. It does, however languish at the bottom of the pile when it comes to weather. "Variable" barely covers it.
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>>It does, however languish at the bottom of the pile when it comes to weather. "Variable" barely covers it.
Yes, take some suitable clothing so you can properly enjoy leaning into the east wind for a bit before really appreciating the pub.
That pretty well describes a good half of our walks on Embleton beach.
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>> It's my 60th this year - I might steal the idea myself, there are few
>> parts of the UK I like better.
>>
Snap!
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Northumberland is my home county - I was born and brought up there.
If you only have a couple of days I would base yourself in or near Alnwick ,Alnwick is very busy at weekends . As mentioned above the Cook and Barker at Newton on the Moor three miles south is a country pub / restaurant which has been extended into a pleasant hotel which I can recommend.
Must sees are Alnwick castle and garden. Take a drive up the coast to Seahouses for a fish and chip lunch to die for and a boat trip to the the Farne Islands if birds are your thing....then on to Bamburgh Village and castle , take a walk on the beach ( likely to be bracing ) get yourself some Scotch pies in the village butchers if you fancy a snack , their sausages are great as well....
Carry on up the coast past Budle Bay back onto the A1 at Belford and then on to Lindisfarne if the tide is right .
Also a must would be a visit to Cragside House and gardens , it really is a brilliant place ( it was on Countryfile last Sunday)
Barter Books is OK but not a must see.
Enjoy your visit.
Last edited by: retpocileh on Wed 6 Mar 13 at 08:17
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You won't really die but you will certainly ruin your car! People have to get onto the tops of their vehicles some times and there is an ASR helicopter at Boulmer which gest called out several times a year. The advised crossing times for the day and 7 days ahead are on the internet and in the local paper. Stick to them and all will be well!
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I know Northumberland very well, and love it. I should think I’ve spent 25 weeks on holiday there.
Three Wheatheads in Thropton (used to be) a nice-ish hotel. Otherwise plenty of options in Alnwick itself. Agree, stay in the Alnwick/Rothbury area.
Do visit the ‘Wall’ area – Hadrian’s - but you could do it as you pass on the way up/down. Corbridge, visit a Roman fort maybe. I reckon you really need a week… if not a fortnight to do it justice. You will be back… Remember, Northumberland is a huge county, from Corbridge in the south to Berwick in the north is probably an hour’s drive in each direction from Rothbury.
Craster for the kippers. Alnmouth for a walk on the beach. Do visit the Alnwick castle gardens; the castle is impressive too, but the whole Harry Potter thing has rather taken it over. Holy Island is definitely a must, not least as the causeway is ‘fun’ to drive.
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Thanks for all the ideas, there's a lot to take in! Unfortunately we're time-limited to a couple of full days this time, although from what's been said it will hardly be time to scratch the surface.
We'll be there in the middle of the week, currently pencilled in for 14/15th May, so we'll avoid the weekend crush. It's always the same when we return to the UK - so much to do, so little time. Complicated this time by my mother's stroke meaning that I need to start and end our trip on the south coast - originally we planned to make the trip oop north just the once, returning to the continent from Hull, giving us more time.
I'll have a look at some of the suggested accommodation, and put together an itinerary. There seems to be quite a few "must dos"!
Last edited by: Mike H on Wed 6 Mar 13 at 19:45
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Retpocileh mentions 'scotch pies'. I've always liked those. But I once got a bigger, sort of flat meat pie from a proper baker in the main street of Alnwick, unpretentious thing made of sausage meat sort of stuff but extremely good.
Alnwick castle looks its best from the A1 out of town to the north. Worth stopping at the top of the hill just to look back and see it, pure Hollywood but real, albeit well maintained.
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Spent a couple of nights here in 2009:
www.bluebellhotel.com/
In Belford, just off the A1
We found it comfortable, with good food.
8o)
Last edited by: neiltoo on Thu 7 Mar 13 at 11:16
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A fantastic part of the UK and with access to some of the best roads around for driving fun...:-)
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>> A fantastic part of the UK and with access to some of the best roads
>> around for driving fun...:-)
When I used to live up there they did have a police advanced driver training school based up there, quite often used to see unmarked police cars used for high speed training.
Also a nasty area for safety cameras especially up the main routes into the borders. A number f them placed to catch rather than placed to slow down IYKWIM
But still a lovely area to live in or visit with some fun roads
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The Blue Bell in Belford is OK to dine in but a little pricey IMO .
The last time I was in there was five years or so ago when SWMBO and I took an aged aunt of mine who lives in the village to lunch ..... I used to drink in there as my local 40 plus years ago . The Black Swan on the other side of the market place used to be better and cheaper . I have no idea now which is better.
Nothing much to see in Belford at all except the magnificent view from the top of the North Bank over Holy Island.
Both my parents and many old family friends from my youth are buried in the churchyard in Belford just behind the Blue Bell
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Yes, we spent an hour or so looking at the churchyard, and also in the church, which whilst not that significant architecturally, is unusual.
The village seemed to be dying, commercially - presumeably it's become a dormitory for Newcastle, or a weekend homes place.
8o)
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>>The village seemed to be dying, commercially -
Ever since the A1 bypass was put in. (I'm sure that AC is making a pre-Alnwick-bypass reference to the A1 going past the castle...)
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>> AC is making a pre-Alnwick-bypass reference to the A1 going past the castle...
Yes. I think it had just been built last time I passed through Alnwick, some years ago now. But I gave the bypass a miss. The old ways are best, quite often.
I remember the A1 north of Alnwick as being a two-lane blacktop, more or less empty and straight for long stretches. I suppose it's mostly dual carriageway now. Got a lift there once from an old geezer in a pre-Farina Austin Westminster with overdrive. He was deaf as a post but smiling and relaxed as he punted that car along at a quiet 90mph. Top class lift.
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>> I remember the A1 north of Alnwick as being a two-lane blacktop, more or less
>> empty and straight for long stretches. I suppose it's mostly dual carriageway now.
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Not at all. Only two stretches of dual carriageway between Alnwick and Berwick both around 3-5 miles in length. Alnwick is bypassed, no longer approach from the north via the roundabout and drop down onto the bridge before climbing in front of the castle.
Last edited by: gmac on Fri 8 Mar 13 at 22:36
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Just thought I would update this thread, to say that I have booked a stay at the Three Wheat Heads Inn at Thropton, as suggested by Mapmaker. It seems to have a reasonable write-up on Trip Advisor and the £110 per night for half board for two of us sounded a reasonable deal. Can't believe how expensive holiday accommodation is in the UK compared to the continent!
Anyway, the next task is to sift through this thread to try and work out the most sensible way to fill two complete days. We're getting the ferry from Amsterdam to Newcastle arriving 9am, so that gives us much of day 1, then on day 4 we drive to Hull to stay with friends.
Hopefully this won't be our first and last visit, but at the moment we can only unfortunately spend a limited time there.
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"Can't believe how expensive holiday accommodation is in the UK compared to the continent!"
Even parts of the continent are ruinous. Look for something near Pompeii. £30-40 per head per night in self-catering, any time of the year. Can't believe it!
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Try Coinks Deals; geared to your area and needs:
www.coinksdeals.co.uk/deal/travel-1
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First stay in Northumberland - FocalPoint
