Would it make sense to change or not?
The little Mazda is still going strong and has proved relatively economical transport over the last 14 months. Total of around £600 spent on servicing and MOT but this figure does include 4 new tyres.
Anyway, my wife finished her nursing degree last year. Things were looking a bit grim on the jobs front but she has now secured a full time position. It means an increased mileage though. A round trip commute of 70 miles 3 times a week, lets say on average 250 miles a week with other journeys in the mix. So, 13k a year as opposed to the ~ 6k when we bought the Mazda has got me thinking if there is any value in a new car.
First the Mazda. A 1997 323F with 108k. It’s reliable and runs well. Never did change the timing belt, so that will need done. RFL currently £215 per year (renews in May, so likely to increase). It averages 32 mpg (the commute is 90% motorway). Future repair costs? Impossible to say – does £600 a year sound feasible for service & maintenance?
A replacement? Have been thinking about cars like the i10 / Picanto (new or pre-reg). It would be on finance, so that may just kill the idea stone dead? A lot would depend on the real world mpg figures, I guess. My quick scribbles indicate a saving of £1000 a year on fuel if we got something that could top 50mpg on the commute? Then there is the RFL/Breakdown Cover savings on top.
What to do? It looks like the fuel cost saving could go a long way to financing the car that 6 years down the line would be worth something. The Mazda could need replacing at any moment or not. I have thought of just running the Mazda until it does need scrapped, but it could end up with a scenario like doing the timing belt, then next month the alternator/battery needs replacing, then another couple of minor things and at that point you don’t want to have wasted that money, so fork out for a bigger bill, or it could just keep going with no bother?
A slightly bigger car may be preferable for the motorway commute, but then we would be looking at used on finance and a big repair bill would be a nightmare, so I’ve rejected this idea.
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Mazda is getting on a bit.If it was me I would go for a Picanto you've worked out the savings.
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A Picanto or I10 will be a nasty little car for doing a long commute week in week out. You wont see your 50mpg+ on a motorway commute anyway.
Stick with the Mazda, but get the belt changed.
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ToMoCo - what engine is in the Mazda?
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>> A Picanto or I10 will be a nasty little car for doing a long commute
>> week in week out.
It's only 35 mins each way.
>> You wont see your 50mpg+ on a motorway commute anyway.
That's what worries me in the figures.
>> Stick with the Mazda, but get the belt changed.
Might well do. I'm a believer in the cheapest car is the one you have, But here i'm not so sure?
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>>A Picanto or I10 will be a nasty little car for doing a long commute week in week out. You wont see your 50mpg+ on a motorway commute anyway.
Stick with the Mazda, but get the belt changed.<<
+1 ... blimmin Picanto, gimme a break will ya!
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All little cars are nasty on the motorway Dog thats not going to change.
Mazda is a old banger get something newer..;)
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Try the cars your interested in, drive them at motorway speeds, theres been alot of progress since the Mazda was new, might not be much difference though the newer cars will likely be more refined.
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I likes the Mazda 323F, Ducky, it's a car where as the Picanto is a domestic appliance,
which is fine if that's what y'all want :)
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>> +1 ... blimmin Picanto, gimme a break will ya!
>>
The last thing you want on a motorway is a wardrobe with a lawnmower engine. :-)
Last edited by: Old Navy on Tue 7 Feb 12 at 12:00
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My dads i10 is fine on the motorway, the Fiesta was a 5 star car in its day, always getting rave reviews in the press like the current one does. The i10 drives better and is more powerful. 84bhp is fine on a small car. 1.2 16V 4 cylinder engine is not a lawnmower engine and is far more powerful than many of the engines found in the current Corsas and Fiestas.
There are issues though like the quality of the seat trim is extremely poor, words cannot describe how bad it is, and the steering has limited height adjustment and there is no reach. These issues are common in most city cars.
I would have a look to see if you can get a deal with something like an i20 as they would be more comfortable long term.
In my dads case it is just used for the rare long trip but mostly local city work so the i10 is perfect but for 75 miles a day it might get tiresome as it is a very small car.
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Thanks Rattle. Moving up to the i20 - would this not just be the same 85bhp engine only in a heavier car?
We will probably stick with the Mazda for now as I suspect Zero, Dog and ON are correct. A daft purchase for motorway work.
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I've always 'admired' the 323F (of that year) and TBH I think it's a car worth looking after, and hanging on to.
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Mechanically (as far as I can tell) it's sound. Cosmetically it's a mess with rust (arches and doors)
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Have you thought about a KIA Rio? There is a new model and there are lots of the previous one at good prices with low miles and a manufacturers seven year warranty.
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>> Have you thought about a KIA Rio? There is a new model and there are
>> lots of the previous one at good prices with low miles and a manufacturers seven
>> year warranty.
I haven't thought about much to be honest. I'll have a look. Had discounted used as we would be buying on finance and any big bills down the line would be a problem (although the 7 year warranty makes this point moot). Also needing the fuel/RFL/Maintenance savings to pay a good chunk of that finance.
At the moment, we put aside £50-£60/month to cover servicing. Any replacement would need to be sub £7k to finance.
My thinking was a new i10 may just cost us about the same (or not much more) to run and remove the risk of having to find £600-£1000 for a replacement should the Mazda go pop.>> Have you thought about a KIA Rio? There is a new model and there are
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Get that belt done ASAP ToMo - HJ says its an expensive job, alas.
Eh, if its got too much rust, and the belt it like HOW MUCH! - then I'd out the critter.
Last edited by: Dog on Tue 7 Feb 12 at 15:43
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An expensive job to change it or if it lets go?
It's a non-interference engine.
Rust - well, a fair bit - but is only cosmetic. Underneath is good and I had it under-sealed (is that the correct term?) when I got it.
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Ah, well - if its just cosmetic that's OK, phone a few garages to price up that belt change.
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If the belt is too expensive to change, get rid through the auctions.
For what its worth, I bought a 626 on an S plate from someone selling it on HJ a few years ago. I intended to run it for a few months whilst sourcing a soft top in winter, but kept it for 2 years. It was ultra reliable, the 2 litre petrol averaged 34mpg, and it lived happily in lanes 3 & 4 all day! As a 5 door hatch with all the bells & whistles it was cheap as chips. Bought for £950, sold for £995 with 4 decent tyres & 12 months mot to a friend. All it cost me otherwise were 2 oil changes@ £35 a time.
Might be worth considering one of these as a replacement?
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Run the Mazda into teh ground. Essential maintenance only..
Cambelt is a hugeish expense for a car worth didly squat.
Save up for the deposit on a newer car.. and use the time to really really choose what you want..
Old cars doing high miles can be a money pit as one thing after another breaks under the strain. Next it will be radiator and hoses due to the unaccustomed stress of longish journeys, then the exhaust etc etc..
It's just like a big washing machine.. treat it as such..
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If Mrs ToMoCo is taking up a post with the NHS it may be worth checking out any discounted purchase schemes / lease schemes on offer. I believe that there are some, and they may mean that something slightly better suited to a motorway trip may be attainable.
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Thanks mikeyb, it is indeed the NHS. Will look into it.
I think we are going to continue with the Mazda for now. I'll get a price for the timing belt as it's probably one of a few things that could leave the car stranded at the side of the road.
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... due to the unaccustomed stress of longish journeys...
Really? Last week on another thread I was being urged to keep my ten-year-old Volvo because a 25-mile motorway commute was the perfect way to use it, and I think that was the right advice. I can't think of a major component that would suffer significant stress from being consistently run at full temperature and moderate speeds. Tyres, yes, but they're a consumable and not a component.
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We had a 98 (S) Mazda 323F with the 1500 CC engine. Owned it for 6 years and scrappaged it against a Hyundai i10 in late 2009.
Our 323 had been very reliable but was suffering because my Mrs decided to reverse it into a concrete post at almost 30 mph and had gone down a road with speed bumps at almost 40 (or something else that killed the underside).
I liked the Mazda. It had character. It wasn't great on fuel (33 ish MPG) but was comfy and well equipped (sunroof and air con).
We bought the top spec i10 and the Mrs liked that too - I was neutral.
Situations changed however and it became my commute to work car (I had caught the train before).
I am 6'4 so it went for the comfort reason. Ignoring that the fuel consumption was disappointing. The journey is 19 miles each way and 18 of that is on 60 MPH A roads however the car did not get over 44 MPG on a brim the tank calculation. The 2 litre turbo audi that replaced it managed up to 38 mpg on the same journey. In the diesel RAV4 I get 50 MPG on that journey.
The i10 is good for short bursts on fast roads but my advice is to stick with the Mazda.
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try to get a haynes manual and you can fit it yourself the timing belt if it cost too much for you, you could swap it for a golf or focus or a 3nd hand civic they good enough to run
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Brettmick - thanks for your 'real world' experience.
Sajid - I really don't think anyone is going to swap a well sorted Golf/Focus/Civic for a rusty near 15 year old 323.
& someone else mentioned getting rid and replacing with another 'banger'. I don't think this is the answer, I'll just be buying into the same conundrum!
The Mazda is due an MOT in May, we will re-asses then depending on cost. This in the mean time lets us see exactly how much we can put aside for the next couple of months from the new income.
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Trouble is, now I've started looking......
>>Have you thought about a KIA Rio?
Found this - www.arnoldclark.com/used-cars/kia/rio/1.4-5-dr/11/ref/blk_l1lk56pso25pekyz/
Someone please tell me its carp and not to even bother.
EDIT: I can't think of even seeing them on the raod - are these fiesta size cars?
Last edited by: ToMoCo on Thu 9 Feb 12 at 12:08
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Nice car ToMo, size is 4,045mm long x 1,720mm wide x 1,455mm high.
Fiesta is 3950 mm long.
Last edited by: Dog on Thu 9 Feb 12 at 12:15
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>>Nice car ToMo
It looks okay, there is an Arnold Clark Kia branch a few minutes from where I work. Might go and have a look.
An extra 500 quid seems to take it up a trim level gaining things like alloys (not bothered) and air con (nice to have), but more importantly, height adjustable seats and adjustable steering wheel. (still with the 0% finance - I'm never too sure about these offers, but the price looks keen enough compared to others)
I'm not really convinced anyway, there is not the same RFL saving (small change in running a car, I know, but still) and I would need to find out a realistic mpg figure. official is 48mpg combined, do you think this would be easily achievable on a 70mph motorway run?
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Height adjustable seats is a must have (for me) wifey is 5ft 2 and I'm 6ft
Air con, I don't really use much but - it comes in handy for a rapid demist or when you're stuck in traffic on a hot summers day (remember those?)
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>> Someone please tell me its carp and not to even bother.
>>
Sorry that was my fault. :-)
The one you have spotted is probably a base model and will not have aircon. All the specs are on the HJ car review site.
Last edited by: Old Navy on Thu 9 Feb 12 at 13:01
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Financial circumstances of OP recently were that money was tight due to SWMBO not having a job even although recently qualified.
New job = new car.............that is a nono.
If money was tight last month and for many months before stay where you are.
Bank a few salary cheques from the NHS, see that the workplace works our and that as well as work she copes with all the travelling.
A few months / 6 /12 months down the line - you should have some savings, know how work/travelling is working out...................and the good news
Garages will have new cars in stock, nearly new cars and second hand ones and you will have a firmer basis to make decisions on.
My experience is based on son that graduated June 98 aged 21, started work and wanted to buy a flat by Xmas......we let matters roll for a year. He bought a new Wimpey flat and he was in by Xmas - 12 months later than he planned but he was settled at work, had money for furniture and the Bank of M&D provided the deposit and the fees.......everyone won - he paid deposit back 5 years later when upgrading to a house.
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Bonkers to be, one week, struggling for money, and the next week 7k in debt. Stick with what you've got.
MOT due May, so you can get it done in April and do the belt at the same time.
Buy a pack of wet and dry paper, some rust killer, and some paint and a tub of wax polish and give it a really good clean.
And learn where a breaker is for second hand parts - tyres included. In 12 months' time if you *really* want to subsidise the struggling motor industry then buy a new car.
Of course, the sensible approach for the country is to buy a new car.
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>> Bonkers to be, one week, struggling for money, and the next week 7k in debt.
>> Stick with what you've got.
Well, It’s the ‘struggling for money’ part that prompted my post. Is it really that bonkers to consider.
13k a year in the Mazda I’ve worked out will require 406 gallons of petrol. I then thought if we get a car that does 50mpg, that would take it down to 260 gallons. A difference of just under £900 a year @ £1.34
Then factor in a saving of £200 a year in RFL. 5 years RAC cover with the original Hyundai I was thinking of and no MOT for 3 years.
That would pay a good chunk of finance over the next 3 or 4 years and leave us with a car that has some value. Not to mention, that aside from any repairs to the Mazda (no matter how cheap), we could at any time be forced to fork out another £500 upwards to replace it and be faced with all the same cam belt / repair issues.
Anyway, don’t worry, we are keeping the Mazda for now as it appears my MPG figures are way off on what’s achievable with a small petrol.
I think the best solution is run it till it dies and replace with a more economical 'banger'.
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/sigh
Just had a call from the missus that the car won't start. Thankfully she has a day off today.
Only info I have is that the dash lights up as normal, but nothing when turning the key.
I'll post in technical later once I've had a look. Only though I have to go on at the moment is that it is particularly wet this morning.
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Possibly a flat battery, put the headlights on and the blower on full, then see if the windscreen wipers will work.
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>>Possibly a flat battery,
Quite likely. They don't seem to give any warning whatsoever these days. Bags of life one minute - flat as a pancake the next.
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Keep em topped up (charged) - especially during the ice age!
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>> Possibly a flat battery, put the headlights on and the blower on full, then see
>> if the windscreen wipers will work.
>>
NO - if the panel lights up do not switch things on - put it in 2nd/3rd and get a push - if the battery is nearly flat a wee drop is all that is needed often to make a push start possible.
One of the benefits I have is living on a hill and a flat driveway - several times in the past a wee push out the drive and gravity did the rest.
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>>Keep em topped up (charged) - especially during the ice age!
I do. But not quite as often as ON.
:)
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I'll check the battery first. Got a set of jump leads in the back of my car anyway.
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>> One of the benefits I have is living on a hill and a flat driveway
>> - several times in the past a wee push out the drive and gravity did
>> the rest.
We have sort of the same, a level drive that leads onto a short hill. Don't fancy pushing it back up though if it's not the battery!
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Well it's definitely the battery. Barely enough to power the lights nevermind wipers at the same time. I got the charger on it just now.
One odd thing, the positive terminal was covered with a plastic cap. I popped this and it was covered in a light blue looking mold?
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Pour hot (but not boiling) water over it to clean the corrosion orf, then buy some copper grease or battery terminal corrosion protector spray to protect the terminals against corrosion.
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>> Pour hot (but not boiling) water over it to clean the corrosion orf, then buy
>> some copper grease or battery terminal corrosion protector spray to protect the terminals against corrosion.
Thanks, will do.
Excuse my ignorance, but do I need a new battery? Or is it just a combination of cold mornings, driven to work in the dark and home again in the dark that has taken it's toll and with a few decent charges it may be okay?
I charged for only 2 hrs last night, It started fine this morning and has had a 30 mile run.
There is a little 'glass eye' in the middle of the battery. This appears green which according to the sticker on it means it's good. I have no idea if these things work though?
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Have you any idea how old the battery is FoMo?
It may be OK now its had a charge, then again it might not be, see 'how it goes'.
Any more problems - then consider replacement.
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No idea of age. Jump leads and charger now in the boot just in case.
Wife happy enough to use my Peugeot (for now) on her work days.
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Give the battery a good charge over the weekend.
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>> Give the battery a good charge over the weekend.
Yes. 2 hours is not enough to provide a deep charge into the battery.
Last edited by: VxFan on Thu 23 Feb 12 at 11:31
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Sorry if this is a daft question - Should I charge it on or off the car? Does it matter?
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>>Sorry if this is a daft question
I tend to charge my battery on the car after disconnecting the terminals, as I don't have one of these newfangled smart chargers.
I expect a forum technician will be along shortly to advise the correct method.
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This is what I use www.amazon.co.uk/Black-Decker-Auto-Battery-Charger/dp/B0013242IA its a smart charger so I leave the battery in situ when charging the battery.
Being your Mazda is 'old tech', you may well be OK with the old type of battery chargers.
So yes - charge it on-car, if its easier for you.
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I'd be inclined to disconnect the terminals - just in case!
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Better to be safe, than sorry!
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Meant to come back and update this a while back.
The Mazda failed it's MOT on emissions and structural corrosion (within 30cm of ???). Back on the road for £90, although I can't say I'm overly confident about the welded chassis. But it is running better than ever. The motorway runs being good for it, I guess.
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Well done for coming back and giving us an update, ToMoCo - top bloke!
I've often seen threads where the OP asks for advice then you never hear of them again.
It's like reading a detective novel with the last chapter torn out!
Good luck with the Mazda. Remember, the longer you keep it going, the more that you save towards its replacement. (You have started saving haven't you, so as to get into training for when you have to make repayments on finance?)
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>>Well, It’s the ‘struggling for money’ part that prompted my post. Is it really that bonkers to consider.
Yes. You're putting yourself 7k in debt, compared to not being in debt, all for the sake of saving yourself £100 per month.
Only a few weeks ago you were struggling for money. Maybe you don't mind owing money, but I would feel I'd gone from the frying pan into the fire having a 7k loan and no way to pay it off if made redundant etc.
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That time again. Mazda going for MOT today (month early).
There is nothing obvious that I can tell (without ramps). Adjusted the handbrake and fitted a new number-plate light. Last month I had to fit a new catalytic converter, £62 from Euro Car Parts and fitted it myself so running costs remain very reasonable, so far.
There is a problem with temperature, but I'll post over in Technical. Nothing serious, I hope!
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Hmmnn.. just found a nick in the nearside front tyre sidewall. Not deep at all, but around 25mm. Could be borderline pass/fail?
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This is exactly echoing my quip about the typical HJ letter " My car is in perfect running order, costs little to maintain, is reliable, comfortable, and suits me perfectly - therefore I need to buy a new car".
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>>My car is in perfect running order, costs little to maintain, is reliable, comfortable, and suits >>me perfectly
>> - therefore I need want
A jaguar xf sportbrake
Last edited by: Zero on Thu 11 Apr 13 at 13:00
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>> A jaguar xf sportbrake
>>
Which one do you like? The 163 BHP one looks adequate enough for wafting along, with decent MPG - or is having 6 cylinders a "must"?
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Wafting will do, they both look the same.
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>>therefore I need want to buy".
A Toyota 4rave.
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Done anything about the timing belt yet?
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>> Done anything about the timing belt yet?
>>
Ehh...No
Based on condition looks good and it's not catastrophic if it does let go.
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>> This is exactly echoing my quip about the typical HJ letter " My car is
>> in perfect running order, costs little to maintain, is reliable, comfortable, and suits me perfectly
>> - therefore I need to buy a new car".
Haha..I get your point, but my original query was still a valid one I think. the 'costs little to maintain' point is very much an unknown on a car approaching 16 years old. My main point was about the fuel cost savings alone just about paying for a new replacement. But that was very quickly accepted as a no-go when I realised I wasn't going to get 50+mpg from a small petrol engine car doing motorway work.
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Well, It failed.
Broken Rear Coil Spring. It's near the top, just the first 'spiral' if you know what I mean. can only be seen with the wheels hanging from the car.
New coil and a pair of coil compressors just ordered from ebay.
EDIT: Just the one advisory too. a dull sidelight
Last edited by: ToMoCo on Thu 11 Apr 13 at 15:13
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There you are then. Minor repair and you are off on another year's happy motoring.
That's saved you a few thousand pounds in depreciation you were about to throw away!
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Yup im rather pleased about that. To be honest though, I still have a nagging feeling that the money I ' throw away' on petrol would pay for that depreciation and leave me with a car worth something in a few years.
But I can also see it's just me seeing that :)
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I reckon you'll always get into knots if you try to justify changing a car with much reference to money.
I tend to think that if you want a car, and you think can afford it, buy it and don't obsess.
If you're not sure if you can afford it, you can't. Done. Think about something else.
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Fitted the spring myself at the weekend and now MOT'd till next May. (Coil Spring £20.50, Compressors £7.50)
To be honest thought, it was an absolute pig of a job due to everything being rusted solid. It thought I was going to have to cut the drop link off, but got it eventually. Managed to snap the head off one bolt, but it was only some sort of cable retaining clip. Drilled it out and just put a metal tie round it when re-building.
I do fear any future jobs though. It's clear to see that anything suspension related will be a nightmare.
Next job is to investigate an oil leak from somewhere near the top.
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OK, I really am at a crossroads now as to what I should do.
Sorting out another couple of minor problems this weekend (oil leak and thermostat), but that leads to more stuff needing attention.
The oil has been dripping on a radiator hose, that in turn has now swollen up, so I guess that should be replaced (maybe only a tenner?), but then the radiator itself looks in poor condition (bottom row of (fins?) coming away).
Then there is the cambelt (should I, shouldn't I). I have no idea how old the battery is (and has on two occasions failed to start (but fine after a charge), and who knows what else is lurking.
We have been saving hard and are now in a position where we can replace the car if need be.
Plus side for the Mazda - MOT'd till May next year, still runs well.
Cambelt kit is around £70. Although I have become quite handy at doing repairs (between this and my 406), I don't think this is something I'd want to tackle. so maybe around £100 for someone to fit.
Do I do it and keep tending to the smaller jobs as and when required, or stop spending on it, run it for another 3 to 4 months and sell with 8 months MOT (maybe £300 if i'm lucky) or scrap it if anything major goes wrong (£100).
Just thinking out load really - when do you decide a car has hit a point of no return?
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I'd try to flog it now and wouldn't do the cambelt. In the meantime I'd keep driving it, spending no money on it, and if it broke I'd take the £100 scrap.
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My thoughts.
If you are happy to tinker at weekends doing minor repairs, then fine thats a valid line.
Major repairs, failures, or stuff you can't be assed to do are signals to get rid.
You have to consider reliability and possible breakdowns on the commute if the tinkering gets to often.
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If you're paying someone else to do the repairs, it sounds to me as if you're approaching the point of selling it on. Its quite an old car now, I think, so spending good money on fixes is unlikely to pay you back.
Were it mine, I'd either sell it on now if I was minded to change anyway, so I'd get as much as I could for it while it was still a runner, or else I'd keep driving it with no repairs other than simple DIY until it failed, then scrap it. But if you need 99+% reliable transport, I'd reckon now's the time to change.
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Keeping a 16 year old jamjar on the frog 'n toad means taking positive action.
The cambelt, radiator hoses, and even the battery should have been changed yonks ago if you want a car you can rely on.
No one can really say how long the thing will last for, you may be lucky and just bodge it up when it plays up and it will give sterling service for ever and a day, but then again you could throw some arf good wedge at it and it will still go nipples up in no time at all.
I should have outed my old Volva 240 GLT sooner than I did, but I hung onto it, and my wallet suffered :(
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ToMoCo, did you say before that this car needed welding to pass the MOT? Or am I confusing it with another post?
If it needed structural work, had borderline emissions, or another lurking problem that could put it off the road, then I certainly wouldn't spend money on it (I'm having these sort of doubts about my 10 year old Panda that's showing intermittent airbag failure lights, and is due its next test in October, but already needs €500 spending on suspension and fixing leaks to pass the test).
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>> ToMoCo, did you say before that this car needed welding to pass the MOT? Or
>> am I confusing it with another post?
Yes, it had some welding done for the MOT last year.
I had a poke around with the tester this year and all looks fairly solid underneath. The bottom of the doors and the rear arches are rotten, but the tester doesn't care about that.
And yes, failed on emissions last year. I gave it a good high rev blast around before this years and it failed the first emissions test, the tester then sat on the throttle for 5 mins and got it a pass.
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Well, It's finally been replaced.
A couple of months ago while searching, we were all over the place, looking between nearly new diesel cars right down to ten year old petrol cars. So gave up and went on holiday instead.
On return we stuck to looking at diesel upto 4 years old. The three final contenders all around £8k were: -
3. A 10 plate Golf VI 1.6TDI S. This was the highest miles at 74,000. Nice enough car but just seemed a little sparse and overpriced for what it was. I know there is the argument about better price down the line.
2. 10 plate Megane 1.5DCI (higher output version) Privilege Tom Tom. 32,000 miles. We came very close to buying this. Superb engine, very comfortable and a really nice place to sit in. In the end though, rightly or wrongly, I couldn't get past my niggling doubts over long term reliability.
So we bought an i30. 1.6 CRDi Comfort. It's an 11 plate with 34000 miles. 2 services for the FSH and warranty till May 2016.
Just picked it up today and really pleased with it so far.
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>> 2. 10 plate Megane 1.5DCI very comfortable and a really nice place to
>> sit in.
This is the thing. My Laguna is so comfortable, that when I have to drive the wife's Golf it feels like the seats are attacking me. And it's the reason why I'd get her to strongly consider a Megane when/if the Golf goes mammaries.
>> So we bought an i30. 1.6 CRDi Comfort. It's an 11 plate with 34000 miles.
>> 2 services for the FSH and warranty till May 2016.
>>
>> Just picked it up today and really pleased with it so far.
>>
Pleased to hear you're happy with it, may it deliver all you want and expect and more.
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Change old Mazda for Brand New? - Dutchie
