This feels like it might be expensive.
Been away for a number of weeks and I parked SWMBOs Yaris up against the garage door. It has a flat battery (- only replaced a year or so ago with a quality one!) and the locking isn't responding.
So the fob has a key which I removed and tried to use - only the driver door has a keyhole. It turns quite happily - no stiffness and quite a bit of travel in each direction - but still nothing. I gently tried additional force both ways using pliers but still nothing.
It doesn't seem worth spraying WD40 or silicon oil into it as I don't think it's stuck but that's probably the next step. It isn't frozen.
The battery is under the rear seat so I can't reach it.
Can't see anything useful in her insurance docs and we have no emergency cover.
Any useful ideas appreciated! (My latest being smash a window but messy & costly and I'm not even sure I could unlock it even if I did that)
Last edited by: smokie on Sun 9 Nov 25 at 17:42
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The emergency key in the fob action is purely mechanical, probably never been used before.
You might be able to get power to the battery by another means, starter solenoid +ve terminal perhaps? jack it up one corner? whip off a wheel and wheel liner perhaps?
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Thanks, I'm fairly sure we used it when the battery went before but that was a while ago. I suspect there may have always been something eating power when it's idle and the previous battery was probably OK and didn't need replacement.
Good idea but beyond my skillset and capability these days ( - gave away my sensible trolley jack a while ago!), but I'd read about providing power another way, maybe through the number plate light. Unfortunately that's likely fairly inaccessible as it's so close to the garage door (the car was reversed up to it). I'll investigate.
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Looked at some more hints from the internet.
Pushed door shut as I'm trying unlock.
Looked for another keyhole in boot lid but can't find one.
Found that it goes anti-clockwise.
It doesn't have a interior boot release to do that trick.
Now squirted some WD40 in it and will leave it for a bit.
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In the 2015 handbook, unlocking using the emergency key was clockwise.
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Do you have a second key? Maybe the lock or the key has been swapped during its life
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That's interesting, the handbook is in the car so I was working from a video I found which I thought was a similar age which def said anti-clockwise. However I've just tried that too, and the second key, and no joy :-(
I'm seeing if I can find a local mobile mechanic who might be able to do what Zero suggested but any other suggestions gratefully received!!
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Not sure about these, but on some cars you have to lift/ pull the handle when operating the lock with the emergency key . Once you have access to the car , open the bonnet , there may be a battery charging post in the fuse box , but not for jump starting .
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A read of this might just be helpful (or not).
www.gr-yaris.co.uk/threads/cant-access-the-car-please-help.11049/
It gives a possible reason why the key might not work (deadlocking set?) and also a nifty way of jumping enough power to get it sorted.
Model might not be the same, but the info possibly is.
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Will try Carmalades suggestion shortly
From T&Es thread there is one which might have legs (remove the rear license plate light cover, use a booster ... to carefully feed electricity in there using a nail or metal wire or screw driver ... and pressing the unlock button simultaneously) sounds promising but the potential problem is that by parking the car close to the garage it's made access to the back difficult.
The less helpful posts of the kind "Least you know to leave it unlocked or the boot ajar or something for next time!" or "in future don't leave it so long between usage, or leave the bonnet open or a ctek charger on it all the time" I find really irritating, pointless and stupid.
Thanks all for the help so far!
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Maybe I'm being a bit thick here but if the lights aren't 'on', how does supplying 12v to the licence plate light get power to the rest of the car?
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Switched in the negative path? (Not conventional, but is a thing, and maybe explains the use of that particular circuit).
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If the lights are controlled by a BCM, it is sometimes done to supply +v in a ring, and switch individual lights by the BCM grounding them. The BCM can then monitor current and give a lights out warning
Last edited by: Zero on Sun 9 Nov 25 at 14:03
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Thanks Zero.
In which case, could a wing mounted side indicator be prised off and use the same trick?
Last edited by: ChrisM on Sun 9 Nov 25 at 15:16
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>> If the lights are controlled by a BCM, it is sometimes done to supply +v
>> in a ring, and switch individual lights by the BCM grounding them. The BCM can
>> then monitor current and give a lights out warning
the problem is, the BCM may supply the +v ring only when powered up, (hence acting as a barrier to injected +v) It all depends on how old the car is and how techy the systems became.
If it uses that system, could be all lights +v switched by BCM.
Either way there is a BCM in the way
Last edited by: Zero on Sun 9 Nov 25 at 15:31
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Might just about be able to do the thing with the number plate light but it is very tight for space. And it's dark now!!
I have a 12v battery charger but I'm not sure that's what's required is it?
Holding the handle in made no difference :-(
Last edited by: smokie on Sun 9 Nov 25 at 16:30
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The title says it's a Toyota Yaris II and you state the battery's under the back seat.
The second generation was made 2005-2011.
I thought only the hybrids had the battery under the back seat?
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Call out someone that can open the door with one of these airbag type things. Seen it done. 2 min job.
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And why don’t you have any breakdown cover?
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It's a hybrid, 2016. Couldn't see it in the dropdown so assumed it's a 2.
No breakdown cover as it's SWMBOs car and she does well under 1000 miles a year, all local, and so really doesn't warrant the cost. This won't change my mind either. If we didn't visit daughter in Brum once or twice a year just to give it a run it wouldn't even reach that.
I saw the "breaking and entering using an airbag" method on YouTube. How would I find someone
so equipped? This is a nice area! :-)
EDIT: SWMBO has now furnished me with some recommendations for mobile mechanics she's got from FB. I guess I start calling round tomorrow.
Last edited by: smokie on Sun 9 Nov 25 at 17:56
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The tools you need can be bought from lidl. When there in
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Just phone any local breakdown company. Ask them if they can get access to car without damaging it and how much.
And then think about getting breakdown cover of some sort. Will cost from as little as £40.
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>> SWMBO has now furnished me with some recommendations for mobile mechanics she's got from
>> FB. I guess I start calling round tomorrow.
Be very careful with FB recommendations, they're often boosted by friends and relations. I use this:trustedtraders.which.co.uk Not the cheapest, but I've not been let down (so far).
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Interesting.
I would trust a local FB page much more than a trusted trader type page.
Depends what trade of course I guess.
Something like this I would be going local.
Just at weekend there I searched the 2 local pages for drain cleaning companies, one company appeared on both, contacted them and he did a great job.
And I have now left my recommendation as well.
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>> I would trust a local FB page much more than a trusted trader type page.
This isn't checkatrade, or trusted trader type cowboy outfit, but Which magazine.
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How weired just went out to my yaris in the dark. Tried the key, heard the lock tumble but door wouldn't open. Fiddled around for a bit. Then tried with remote and it opened as usual. I'm just going to read up in handbook
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I do wonder whether the "deadlock" explanation above explains that. If you do have the facility to deadlock or not, you might try the key in each state to see if deadlocking disables the use of the physical key.
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In the daylight I've been able to open my door with the key after double locking with fob. 2017 hybrid yaris
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Hmm, I've just been experimenting using the pull out physical key on my Swace (aka Toyota Corolla). Basically I can use the manual key if the car has been single locked, but not it's been double locked (deadlocked). Hmm, note to self If intend to leave for sometime in an airport car park - don't deadlock.
NB In addition when I first bought the car I experimented finding ways to lock the car without setting the alarm and the only way was by locking the car with the physical pull out key. We need this when on the overnight ferry setting off from near us.
Last edited by: BigJohn on Sun 9 Nov 25 at 18:07
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Which reminds me. The chorus of car alarms on our ferry this summer when the ramp on which the cars were parked was moved its raised position was quite impressive.
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It does say in the handbook door can't be opened for 3 seconds after locking. I haven't had this problem with it before today. Previously tried it to make sure it's not corroding
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It's not been intentionally deadlocked.
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If it’s a hybrid, the 12 volt battery is under the bonnet. It’s a mechanical link between the door lock barrel and the latch , if there’s no resistance, something may have come adrift. I’ve just opened up the driver door on my neighbours Fiat where he managed to lock the key inside. Used an airbag, some plastic trim tools and a bent up wire coat hanger.
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She's not my type really... :-)
Might have a go at the battery trick though, but I suspect it's a hoax...
It is def a hybrid and the battery was def under the back seat. I had to buy one of those expensive non-leaky ones.
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>>>> Might have a go at the battery trick though, but I suspect it's a hoax...
NO! Really?
And whats the worse that can happen by injecting 12v up the wrong light feed, I mean a new body module cant be that expensive.
Last edited by: Zero on Mon 10 Nov 25 at 08:29
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Whilst I posted the link, I'd be pretty wary of taking that approach, especially if access to the rear bulb connection is tight, or ascertaining that it's a similar model Yaris. (As an initial judgement, though, I'd take the post as genuine. The "deadlocking" thing inhibiting the emergency key seems to crop up a lot, and it would be difficult to concoct a story such as using the numberplate light connection).
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We had Yaris hybrids on the CityCar fleet, I was always going out to re-boot them. They had a charging point under the bonnet with a red cover on. Nearside if I recall.
Ted
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You could have locked it and then immediately thought did I lock it and pressed the key again, so as to double lock. Which would mean you can't open it from inside. Try again with the key be patient. I think it's something you're doing wrong.
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Bit of lateral thinking here.
Get a pointy tool and crack the windscreen.
When the mobile fitter comes to replace there is your entry to the car to open bonnet to charge battery.
Just the windscreen excess to pay....
Once i broke a quarter light but maybe yours doesn't have that..
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I think your doing something wrong. Pull back the handle. Then turn key Anti clock wise. The door should open
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smokie, just call out a breakdown service. It's cheaper than paying every year and not using them.
If your hybrid Yaris is like my hybrid Yaris there in a terminal in a box at the back of the engine bay (close to the bulkhead) on the nearside. That's where the red lead goes. The black goes on a bit of solid metal.
There are videos on Youtube both for getting in to the car and jump starting it.
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Where are you? Geographically, I mean.
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Ben out in gen3 Yaris this morning and tried the key in the lock. From the sound of the locks, I suspect it operates an electrical switch and with a flat battery, I suspect you're stuffed (as would I be).
Brilliant design from Toyota!
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Having just bought the Mazda version of this car I have now discovered that dead 12v batteries are a recurring problem. It's only a 40Ah and its only job AFAIK is to listen for key signals, and power the 12v consumers and the brain of the hybrid drive.. The traction battery starts the engine.
Ours is getting minimal use at the moment until I get under it and put some clear wax on. I make sure it gets a run every few days but I'm going to put the Victron on the charging post under the bonnet later and see how much charge it takes.
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Battery issues with Toyota hybrids seems a recurrent theme.
Two neighbours have had problems.
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Never had this problem. The last 3 months the car only used for a two hour run, once a week. Don't run the car with it in neutral. Turn off all accessories before getting home. Check condition of charge on display.. If leaving for over two weeks disconnect the white live in the top fuse box, quite simple
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Why shouldn't one run the car while it's in neutral?
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Buy yourself a jump start kit. Around £30 from the nice people at Amazon. Charge it up every couple of months.
Either get one for each car and keep it in the car, or keep one in the best place to remember where you put it.
Hmm. Now where did I leave that jump start thing.. um, er
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And don't leave it in the boot and lock the car!
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Duncan - I'm in Wokingham.
Bloke coming tomorrow evening, very confident he can do it but won't charge if he can't. He would have come tonight but I'm out, and I want to see how he does it (if he does!). He said it is a very common Yaris hybrid problem, something to do with sharing the battery shortens its life but I may have misunderstood.
He responded to a shout out on FB. Maybe he's a criminal, or maybe he's an auto electrician, who knows? I'll let you know tomorrow. When we had a bloke do the bathroom it did turn out his recommendation on FB had been done by his missus and his sister etc. Maybe trustedtraders is like Checkatrade where they spend quite a few hundred quid to have the "accreditation".
Jump start kit not much use if you can't easily attach it to anything!!
I have just been out and tried again without using excessive force on the key, with the handle pulled out and also in normal place, and clockwise and anti-clockwise. The key turns about the same amount in both directions wherever the handle is (almost 90 degrees), and with the same amount of resistance each way. It feels like it's reaching end of travel. It doesn't feel like it is trying to move something and failing.
Once this is over I guess I'll take the door card off and see what I can see.
This did happen once before, again when we were away for many weeks (7 this time). I think a trickle charger might be the way to = watch for a new thread soon :-)
Slowdown avenue "if leaving for over two weeks disconnect the white live in the top fuse box," sounds a good alternative but would that not prevent me from locking it in the first place?
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>> Slowdown avenue "if leaving for over two weeks disconnect the white live in the top
>> fuse box," sounds a good alternative but would that not prevent me from locking it
>> in the first place?
You lock the car with the bonnet up, whip out the fuse, then close the bonnet.
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I can’t wait ‘till tomorrow’s instalment!
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Does that not disable the locking? If so how would I open the bonnet then?
LOL @ maltrap me too!!
Last edited by: smokie on Mon 10 Nov 25 at 16:31
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The battery discharges in neutral.. The big battery charges up the 12,volt.. Please for me just try again hold handle out for 4 seconds then turn anti clockwise..
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Just been out again and tried that multiple times - still no go.
When you did yours did you feel any kind of resistance as it unlocked?
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>Just been out again and tried that multiple times - still no go.
Have you tried it wearing a pair of Speedos standing on one leg in a bucket of water while singing Tiptoe Through The Tulips in falsetto?
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>> Have you tried it wearing a pair of Speedos standing on one leg in a
>> bucket of water while singing Tiptoe Through The Tulips in falsetto?
>>
It's already on TikTok. ;-)
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>It's already on TikTok. ;-)
No. That one is me.
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The one with the budgie-smugglers with no budgie?
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Pink PVC ones? Yup, that's me.
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>> Pink PVC ones? Yup, that's me.
You Git, you said you would wait till I could get my drone out.
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Strange thing. I went out last night in the dark and couldn't open the door with the key. After fist having turned it clockwise. Heard all the slots. Tumbling. No sound to the anti clockwise. Opened with the fob, retrieved the handbook. This morning it opened with key after I had double locked it with fob. Held out handle 4 seconds and turned anticlockwise. Opened no sound
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>> Having just bought the Mazda version of this car I have now discovered that dead
>> 12v batteries are a recurring problem. It's only a 40Ah
Are you sure? The battery in my old petrol, manual Yaris is only about that size. I thought the hybrids had a much smaller battery, as it's only required to fire up the electronics.
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I'm only going by what Tayna says is the correct replacement battery. So I'm not sure.
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>> I'm only going by what Tayna says is the correct replacement battery. So I'm not
>> sure.
It seems it uses quite a large 12v battery and stop-start technology. The EV power comes from a capacitor(?). I assumed it would have an HV traction battery like earlier hybrids. I presume it has minimal EV range.
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>> >> I'm only going by what Tayna says is the correct replacement battery. So I'm
>> not
>> >> sure.
>>
>> It seems it uses quite a large 12v battery and stop-start technology. The EV power
>> comes from a capacitor(?). I assumed it would have an HV traction battery like earlier
>> hybrids. I presume it has minimal EV range.
No, it's not the big capacitor job.
Mazda added the capacitor to some of its cars including the MX-5 maybe 3/4 years ago and refers to some of those models (2 & 3 I believe) as "mild hybrids". I think it must be some sort of fudge to help with their emissions commitments. The capacitor is charged from the alternator on the overrun and the stored energy is used via a DC-DC converter to run consumers when the car is under power, relieving it of alternator load. This saves, presumably, a few teaspoons of fuel per lustrum.
The Mazda 2 Hybrid (not Mild Hybrid, which has been discontinued) is a Yaris Hybrid with a Mazda badge and a different bumper. That's it. It uses version 4 of the Hybrid Synergy Drive (HSD)and has the small traction battery under the rear seat where the 12volt battery also lives.
The Yaris comes in 2 power outputs, 114hp max and 129bhp max, which use version 4 and version 5 of the HSD respectively. Mazda only has the 114hp model. The 1.5 litre 3 cylinder Atkinson cycle petrol engine makes 90bhp and the electric motor 59kW. The traction battery, at least on the 114bhp version, is only 0.76kWh.
The Hybrid doesn't use stop-start as such. It starts the engine when it needs to, to charge the battery and/or to provide propulsion. The drive is blended and controlled by the HSD. It will generally set off on electric if there is sufficient battery power.
Last edited by: Manatee on Mon 10 Nov 25 at 21:00
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>>No, it's not the big capacitor job.
Sorry, I need to get up to date!
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Had a car where the interior release cable paced up. Jacked it up and found a way to free it. Could you do that then put a feeder battery to the live connector and earth to see if it would regenerate enough to open with fob. Guessing your fob battery is OK. Hold fob close to car. I can just see the mechanic arriving saying give me the and it opens no problem and you feeling a chump
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I'm OK with feeling a chump, has happened before and it won't be the last time but I'm sure it's dead!
Re your earlier query - when you did yours did you feel any kind of resistance as it unlocked?
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>> ....did you feel any kind of
>> resistance as it unlocked?
On my Corolla in drag if it's single locked, yes you feel a bit of resistance turning key anticlockwise - car drivers door then unlocks/opens but it sets the alarm off!!
However If double locked then you cannot turn the key anticlockwise and car remains locked.
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No help of course but when we had the Note, it was put away down the back and very close to a 6ft waney fence on it's nearside. Overnightx the battery died. No sign of keyhole so rang the dealer. It was covered by a sliding escutcheon...guess where...on the nearside
I had to go round to my neighbour to lift the fence panel. Even then the concrete base restricted opening the door much. I can't remember how I opened the drivers door, but we did, a new battery and all was well !
On the road, I carried a selection of lockout tools. Apart from various wires, favourites were a small softwood wedge, a scrap of leather and a length of stiff plastic binding tape doubled. I recall stopping at Chester services for a cuppa, when it was just a hut. On the empty car park was a 70/80s Ford with 2 policemen and a group of folk round the drivers door. A girl saw me and told me they were locked out. I gabbed the items above, walked over to the passenger door and opened it straight away. They'd been trying with a coat hanger for 15 minutes ! Brownie points for me and amazed looks from them.
Ted
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Always carried a length of packing tape in the cap. Access became harder when they modified the buttons without the wide piece at the top.
Colleague carried a full size 'Slim Jim' to slide down the side of the glass and access the door opening rods.
Suppose these days anyone who requests police assistance will be directed to their breakdown provider.
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Sadly sounds like it's deadlocked, the key won't work, think I'd try forcing the bonnet open or getting someone out with the correct tools ( and knowledge!)
Last edited by: Paul 1963 on Tue 11 Nov 25 at 07:54
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Georgi is coming out after 17:00 and sounded fairly confident.
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This has been a useful thread Smokie!
I just checked the voltage on the Mazda 2 Hybrid (Yaris) and it was c. 12.2V! It's done 190 miles since we collected it on 15th October, the most recent being c. 8 miles yesterday. Although it's not been used much, most trips would be around 10 miles. One would hope it could cope.
I've put the Victron on it with the charging rate set at 3A maximum. I'm using the Victron because the app tells me that it is taking the full 3A at 12.5V after about 20 minutes connected, so I'd say it was fairly discharged.
The charging point is under a flip-up cover inside the fuse box which was already flipped up - I imagine the car was stored for a while at the dealer and they had already had to charge it up a bit to get it going.
I connected the Victron to the charging point, meanwhile I have removed a couple of trim clips and pulled the battery cover off the back seat base. Before the cover goes back on I'll put on a plug-in charging cable.
I have been told that if you power the car on and just let it sit for 40 minutes, it will recharge the battery from the traction battery.
I've read what I can find in the 1000 page manual but there's no mention of the battery being prone to inconvenient self-discharge, surprisingly.
If you haven't a CTEK then consider the Victron. I have the 10A one but tend to use the 3A setting as being a bit kinder when time isn't critical.
www.alpha-batteries.co.uk/12v-victron-energy-10a-7-stage-smart-battery-charger-with-bluetooth-control/
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>> If you haven't a CTEK then consider the Victron.
I like victron stuff, threw out the supplied truma solar controller in the basecamp, and replaced it with a Victron blutooth MPPT one. It provides much better w/hr harvesting, configurable to the characteristics of my AGM liesure battery, and of course I have blutooth monitoring and history and software updates to the controller.
Last edited by: Zero on Tue 11 Nov 25 at 12:39
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While you have the back seat out be sure to remove and clean filter going to the cooling fan
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>> While you have the back seat out be sure to remove and clean filter going
>> to the cooling fan
>>
Thanks, but it's only done 200 miles!
It's a separate cover under the seat on the O/S to get at the battery. There's another cover under the N/S rear seat for the cooling fan filter. But I will keep an eye on it.
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>> If you haven't a CTEK then consider the Victron. I have the 10A one but
>> tend to use the 3A setting as being a bit kinder when time isn't critical.
>> www.alpha-batteries.co.uk/12v-victron-energy-10a-7-stage-smart-battery-charger-with-bluetooth-control/
>>
Or buy a jump starter from those nice people at Amazon.
tinyurl.com/5t4aznyh
Last edited by: Duncan on Tue 11 Nov 25 at 19:07
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I locked myself out of a MK3 Cortina, fortunately, my colleague had a similar age Escort so we just used his key.
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Locked the keys in my Peugeot 104 at least once as I was in the habit of pushing the lock button down and closing the door to lock it.
Managed after about ten minutes of millimetric movement to get the window down by pressing firmly on it and wiggling it.
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I locked the keys in a council Marina van when I was at home and shouldn't have been. I put a hammer through the side window, went back to the depot and told them I'd left the van in a park (Where I should have been) and some yobs had smashed the window. A warning went round to everybody to be careful when leaving the vans unattended because of what had happened to poor old Robin.
I suppose I should have felt guilty were I an upright sort of chap, but I wasn't so I didn't.
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I'm a bit surprised that anyone with a Toyota hybrid isn't aware that leaving it for more than two weeks risks a flat battery. The issue got an airing a number of times on HJ.
Neighbours have a RAV4. Three weeks on holiday in the US and it was dead, although they were able to open it up. This year, the same thing happened after four weeks away. Good job it was sitting on their drive rather than an airport carpark late at night after a long haul flight.
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Thank you for your contribution but I left HJ maybe 15 years ago and never went back! :-)
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I am more surprised that a clearly pervasive and long term issue hasn't been fixed by Toyota
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>> I'm a bit surprised that anyone with a Toyota hybrid isn't aware that leaving it
>> for more than two weeks risks a flat battery. The issue got an airing a
>> number of times on HJ.
I frequented both forums but it hadn't registered with me, possibly because I hadn't a hybrid at the time.
I agree with Zero, it's amazing that Toyota hasn't fixed it.
It's possible my battery is already knackered due to deep discharge. It's still taking 3A although charge voltage is up to maximum (14.4V) after about 90 minutes. I'll be leaving the booster in the car.
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Whenever I've left my cars long term airports and where ever, I've always been prepared for possible battery failure. Bigger problem for some hybrids. When the green light shows ready that's when it's charging
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Well it's now fixed. He clearly knew of the problem and ow to deal with it.
He used a jack to raise the front offside, I went in to make a coffee, came out and the bonnet was open. From then on it was easy - he had a jump start battery thing which provided the needed power (though it didn't work at first!).
He took the car round the block, stopped and started it etc. He put an analyser on the 12v and it was nearly at 100%, 13.9v but he said the resistance was a bit high at 9.5.
He said it's a quality battery but they only give a one year warranty, unlike most, so obv are aware of potential problems. While he said we could look at changing it he also gave the impression it wasn't really necessary. Not su rprisingly he said it need to be driven more!
The charger I have will trickle charge but it says lead acid and he said research before using that with the AGM battery. I thought the main difference was the construction and sealing but I will research. It does have a trickle function but he said that oughtn't be left unattended for weeks, and also said disconnecting a wire to stop parasitic charge could upset the car computer. So at the moment i have no solution for long term absence.
One of my fob keys had a duff battery but that wasn't the one I was having problems with, and I was using both. Still neither of the physical keys from both keys will unlock the door, whatever I di with the handle and whichever way I turn it. Something I need to investigate further...as if that had worked it would have been less of a problem..
All in all a bit weird but I'm glad it's resolved at that cost - I envisioned a good few hundred spend before a resolution!
Thanks for all the help and advice!
EDIT: My charger IS AGM compatible. And there is an LED lit power USB unit in the cigar lighter and he said that could cause it over time even though consumption would be low, but probably not.
Last edited by: smokie on Tue 11 Nov 25 at 15:02
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That's good to hear. Next time I'm under mine I'll investigate opening the bonnet catch... I've been sure to use my key occasionally but not in wet weather. Even if you don't drive it. Just run the 3ngine for 30 minutes a week.
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Would it be possible to fit a a pigtail type connector to the battery? Tucked away but accessible to get some voltage back into the system to at least give access.
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That's a thought FC though I personally wouldn't really know how to do it. What do others think?
The most obvious bit is to get the keys working...
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I'm going to fit the 'pigtail'. I have a spare one for the Victron, they have ring connectors on them. One will go under the 10mm nut on the +ve battery terminal and the other probably under the battery clamp nut. I can probably tuck the connector down the side of the seat.
Although - I reckon if I leave it powered up while I wash it, provided I do that fairly regularly, that will be enough to keep it topped up.
The other option is a solar panel to leave on the dash.
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I would be tempted to run a bit of cable from the official charging/jump-start connector and fasten the (insulated) loose end somewhere behind the grill or underside of front bumper. The factory charging circuit probably has some in-built protection for electronic modules.
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I'd rig up an anderson connector from the battery +v and -v direct, to somewhere connectable outside.
www.amazon.co.uk/Qusedwey-Anderson-Connector-Waterproof-Connectors/dp/B0DT7H8PNK
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>> I'd rig up an anderson connector from the battery +v and -v direct, to somewhere
>> connectable outside.
Useful thanks. My battery is under the bonnet and possibly easy to connect one of these up. Trouble is everything is a sea of plastic panels under the car. It would need to leave the Anderson connector in a safe dry place but accessible in case of a battery emergency. They might get upset re warranty as well. It reminds me of when I built a kit car where I could "plug" in a second small leisure battery to charge ready to plug into camping lights etc. I seem to remember I used some funny connectors retrieved from Ford wiring looms.
Re Swace for now I'll not use the deadlocks (unless I'm in a dodgy area) so that the physical key can open the drivers door if needed. I already have a battery pack under the passenger seat.
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A good thought, but there's no obvious way to attach a cable to the jump start point non-destructively.
It's not very meaty anyway. It doesn't actually take starter current, it only needs to energise the brain and maybe some 12v consumers. The traction battery starts the petrol engine.
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Is it this?
www.youtube.com/watch?v=XtaC9GPPqNc&t=100s
If so, won't a thin piece of L-shaped copper/aluminium plate (bent spade crimp connector?) fit up against the connector and allow the red cover to be closed over it holding the plate in contact with the connector? Solder a bit of wire to the plate and exit the wire alongside the white/blue cable?
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Too much of a bodge I think, and the red plastic cover is quite loose and flimsy - its job is only to stop anything shorting on the 12V live. Toyota in the manual calls it "the exclusive jump start point". It's a bit unspecific about charging and if anything implies rather than states that the battery should be removed for charging.
Apparently the jump start point is connected to the DC-DC converter rather than the battery direct so you might be right to guess that it offers some protection from high voltage - I have previously measured over 17V on one of those lithium booster packs although that no doubt drops when there is a current.
I'm not really concerned about this as I have a charger that can be capped at 14.4 charging voltage or lower, so I'll go with the positive battery post and the body earth. What could go wrong!
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Internet search "SAE Connectors" gives some ideas re lightweight connectors.
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Well it's now fixed. He clearly knew of the problem and ow to deal with it.
How much di it cost?
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Call me a Luddite, but I would much prefer the minor inconvenience of physically unlocking the doors with a key, and manually unlock the other doors without all this expensive electronic trickery. Great while it works, a complete pain when it doesn't.
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£60. That was the quoted up-front price, only payable on success. He was here probably more than 30 mins and quite chatty and helpful, and tested it etc.
Plus the £75 for the taxi from Heathrow on Saturday cos daughter couldn't start the car to come and get us!!
Yes, I'm in no doubt he knew the fix before he even came out - although there are obviously variants.
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. And there is an LED lit power USB unit
>> in the cigar lighter and he said that could cause it over time even though
>> consumption would be low, but probably not.
>>
On the Toyota hybrids the 12v cigar lighter and usb sockets are not energised when car is powered off so anything plugged in will not drain the 12v battery.
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>> Well it's now fixed. He clearly knew of the problem and ow to deal with
>> it.
>>
>> He used a jack to raise the front offside,
Why did he jack up the front of the car?
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>>Why did he jack up the front of the car?
I should imagine to access the bonnet release, so he could reach the 'jump' terminal and put some power into the battery.
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Yes BT is no doubt correct. I went in to make a coffee as he was putting the jack in place, and when I came out the bonnet was open. And the alarm hadn't gone off. (but then again I suppose maybe with a dead battery....!)
And I don't have to wait for a kettle to boil so whatever it was didn't take him long at all!!
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Sorry.
I apologise if I am murdering this, but as the owner of a hybrid Yaris, this is more than idle curiosity.
1. What is this 'deadlocking', of which you speak? Is that what happens when you double click the key fob?
2. The jacking up of the offside front of the car. Is the bonnet release cable then visible - or what?
3. If I then put power into terminal under the bonnet, does that then make the key fob work enabling one to unlock the car?
3a. If not, how does one get into the car?
Last edited by: Duncan on Wed 12 Nov 25 at 09:05
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1. It locks the locking bolt, preventing it from being pushed back. Yes. It's in the manual.
2. May need to remove the wheel arch liner.
3. Yes.
3a. Smash a window?
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The key fob has a physical key which you can use in the driver door to unlock the car. On my fox there is a button to release the key, careful inspection will identify it.
Except in my case it didn't work. And it still doesn't work now the battery is charged.
So test your physical key to check it works - if it does it's unlikely you'll need to jack up the car, or go through any of the other shenanigans in this thread. When testing, if you have smart locking, remember to leave the key fob out of range!
Another learning opportunity - if you have a second key in your key safe, remember to check it and change the battery once in a while. Mine was dead, which had no bearing on the problem here but could have been problematic in other circumstances!
1. Correct
2. Don't know but somehow he opened the bonnet and without triggering the alarm
3. Yes he had one lead from some large portable power unit on a terminal at the back of the engine compartment on the passenger side and the other on the manifold or something. There was a squarish cover over box containing the terminal and a separate cover on the terminal itself.
For the sake of £60 it's not soemthing I'd bother doing myself.
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Just like to add. Learn how to disconnect the white main live connector. You best do this every time you do service work on the car. Especially the brakes. It might also help to recalibrate things.
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>> So the fob has a key which I removed and tried to use - only
>> the driver door has a keyhole. It turns quite happily - no stiffness and quite
>> a bit of travel in each direction
>>
Spotted in the manual "If a wrong key is used The key cylinder rotates freely, isolated
from the internal mechanism."
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>>Spotted in the manual "If a wrong key is used The key cylinder rotates freely, isolated
from the internal mechanism."
What a good spot. And a great design. If it don't fit, you can't force it.
I shall test my keys tomorrow.
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Interesting, and possibly relevant, but the keys are the originals so I'd be surprised if that was my problems. I'd be interested to hear your outcome Manatee - I asked Slowdown further up if there felt like any resistance and he said there wasn't, and his worked IIRC. So not sure how I'd diagnose this.
I'm pretty sure we've previously used at least one of them.
Last edited by: smokie on Fri 14 Nov 25 at 22:53
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Don't know what yours are like Smokie, but mine are plain flat blades with the shape milled out of one side.
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>> but mine are plain flat blades with the
>> shape milled out of one side.
Likewise with my key, only works when inserted one way.
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How wicked of Toyota to tease its pensioner target market with such cruel trickery. ;)
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>> How wicked of Toyota to tease its pensioner target market with such cruel trickery. ;)
>>
Quite.
When Nursey has been round, I will hobble round to the garageing facility to see if my keys work that way.
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Ford use a similar system with their locking . Any of the Tibbe type key will lock the car , but you need the correct key to unlock .
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Interestingly I just walked past a Toyota in the supermarket carpark, had a sticker in the side window stating ' if this car is deadlocked the doors cannot be opened'
Just tried the emergency key on the Swift, does nothing if the cars deadlocked..
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Mine locks and unlocks with key, and will unlock it when it's deadlocked. With the proviso that power was present,
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My RAV4 opens and locks easily on the spare key but if I'd locked it using the central locking button on the key, the alarm goes off for some time unless I hit the button .
Has anybody had this problem,,,not a big one,,,90% of the times that I pick up the key to use the button, it's always the wrong way round....ie the buttons are not on the ' thumb side '.
This is like other niggles...I can never adjust an adjustable spanner the right way first go, there are two items in our kitchen, a plastic bowl that I have never been able to clip the lid on and a grater that I have not been able to put in it's cover. SWM does both with ease ! It's either old age or sod's law !
Ted
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.. and your fob was well out of range?
I expect it'll just be me but... when I first tested it I just took it out of the fob by the car and thought Oh, it DOES work after all. Then realised I wasn't testing it at all!!
Curious whether you felt any resistance when it worked though, like usual unlocking...
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>> Just tried the emergency key on the Swift, does nothing if the cars deadlocked..
You might find you have to apply more force with the key to overcome the mechanical deadlock on the drivers door.
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Hi just back after a break. Just went to car and opened with key Anti clockwise just very slight resistance and little click of unlocking sound. Then I double locked it with fob, and the key wouldn't turn anti clockwise. So in future if leaving car unused, I shall make sure not to double lock.
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Don't think I get resistance or clicking. I'll try again shortly...
She said he auto unlocking seemed reluctant today. But then so was I first thing, it was COLD!! :-)
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>> What a good spot. And a great design. If it don't fit, you can't force it.
Vauxhall have had that feature for quite some time.
Not sure if the same now applies since Stellantis took them over.
Last edited by: VxFan on Mon 17 Nov 25 at 11:01
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I recall reading somewhere (I'll have to get the manual out when I've a few hours to spare), that using the key in the driver's door, unlocks just that door. Prevents scrotes from jumping in when you use the fob to unlock all.
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>>
>> that using the key in the driver's door, unlocks just that door.
>>
Yes, but will set the alarm off
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>>Yes, but will set the alarm off
If the car has an alarm, mine doesn't.
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>> Yes, but will set the alarm off
Put key into ignition to silence alarm.
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No ignition lock on a hybrid - however push power on button with key inside the car will silence the alarm.
Last edited by: BigJohn on Wed 19 Nov 25 at 15:42
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Toyota Yaris II/Vitz - Flat battery/door locked/key doesn't work - Zero
