As vehicles get more and more complex, the difficulty of working on them as a home mechanic has increased almost exponentially.
Certainly, it inhibits me from attempting anything but the most obvious of things on either of the cars.
Funnily enough, however, I'm happy to go somewhat further with the motorhome, the most costly of our three vehicles. I'm reasonably mechanically aware, but also very aware of my own limitations, both technically and physically (and my lack of some tools). I've serviced the motorhome to dealer standards since purchase, with the exception of the required cambelt change at 5 years (it being a far from easy job without a pit or lift).
I'm aided by the fact I have aftermarket, but dealer-level, software which allows virtually complete diagnosis, adjustment and code resetting. In the later Ducato versions this has been negated by Fiat locking down 3rd party access via the OBD port.
Before and after long runs, I tend to do a code-read just to check everything is OK. It was clear before the recent 2.5k mile European trip, but after return there was an engine code indicating (an?) intermittent electrical fault with the "blow-by heater". The advice was that the EML had not been illuminated, so clear the fault and check for re-occurence. That I have done and am doing respectively.
Now the blow-by heater is part of the gas recirculation system, and is designed to avoid delivering ice-crystals into the turbo feed! Historically, somewhat older models used to blow a (shared) fuse when there were problems with this heater or circuit. The advice for this was simply to detach the electrical connector to the blow-by heater, replace the fuse, and run as normal (with the other items on the shared fuse now working again). The provision is largely for near-Arctic conditions, and of little consequence in most of Europe.
In later (Canbus) models like mine, there is no fuse. The electrical supply is managed by the engine/body computer, which inhibits the feed in case of problems without affecting other circuitry. Unfortunately, in the case of "hard" or repeated issues, the EML is now illuminated (though there is no effect on engine or emissions performance).
I'm no great believer in intermittent problems going away, so, though I shall retest at intervals and keep my fingers crossed, I'll likely try to address the issue. (It isn't entirely uncommon). It has to be said that, even with the EML lit, there is no downside in running, except in determining that is the only issue that has lit it.
Looking at parts diagrams, I was dreading it, but luckily I couldn't match the diagrams and parts pictures because I was one year out with the research, and for my engine the part (a PTC heater in a hose) is redesigned and much more accessible than first thought, at the top of the engine. Worst bit will be removal of one Fiat proprietary single-use hose clip (the other more remote but still accessible end is push and clamp fit).
The part is about £160, which is excessive for what it is, but I can obtain used for £50 (which is tempting). Alternatively, apparently I can put a bit of 1 amp fuse wire across the feed terminals to inhibit the EML (really, it's the appropriate resistance). The latter is not my preferred option ;-) .
I'm considering changing the 'van for one last time, but the inability to do the equivalent of some of the above due to the OBD block is certainly giving me pause for thought.
|
|
However good your aftermarket diagnostic system is , it’ll never be as good as the dealer kit . The crankcase breather heater on these is part of a complete hose assembly, something that most manufacturers do now . You may find a Ducato daily van part will fit , but not sure of the pipe diameter or connector type . These are about £30 . The heater resistance value is about 15 ohms , so a fuse won’t do the job . That’ll be a dead short , zero ohms . Use a dummy resistor to cheat the system. Sadly most car makers now use Sgw . Secure gateway, which means access to the obd network is more difficult
|
|
Does this blocking of OBD port help to prevent the thefts where the thieves access it to clone keys (across various manufacturers)
|
>> Does this blocking of OBD port help to prevent the thefts where the thieves access
>> it to clone keys (across various manufacturers)
The ODB11 port has a convoluted history. It only exists due to legislation insisting that a common interface exist to enable some basic diagnostic information was available to mechanics, due to mandatory emissions equipment - oxygen sensors and cats mainly. Because this information was carried on a CAN buss, it gave access to that buss. There is more than one buss and they communicate across gateways Several makers also included for a few years another interface that gave access to the other busses not carrying that information.
Makers seem to have dropped the other interfaces, use the ODB port but locked out the non legislated functions. Easily done by putting new code on gateways.
So in answer to the question, if your car had the ability to clone keys via the port, and it hasn't been updated yes you still can. Not a common theft method these days, Relay thefts (where the key signal is amplified from the house to the car) or can buss injection thefts (like the Range Rover using the headlight signal wire ) are used. But the most common is to housebreak and steal the keys.
In theory, with cars that have a sim card and cell access it should be feasible to expensively disable them remotely, tho no makers have invested in this function.
|
|
Very common on Range Rover models , to cut an access hole in the tailgate and tap into the can network lines . This gives access to the electronics systems.
|
|
Yip , cordless angle grinders have a lot to answer for across thefts of all types of vehicles and bikes.
|
...well, having bitten the bullet I'll find out how easy it is to replace the blow-by heater.
I cleared the (intermittent) DTC, but in continuing checking it's back again. I'd rather remove it completely, so a (new) replacement part should be arriving tomorrow.
I'm hoping that, at worst, replacement will involve a few skinned knuckles - it looks eminently do-able with a little flexibility.
The Fiat hose clip is going to get forced off (multiple examples of doing so on Youtube and forums). Some people have had success with these clips re-useably with right-angle circlip pliers, but given the restricted access and the fact I haven't got any, brute force and ignorance (and a replacement Jubilee clip) will have to suffice.
Coincidentally, a friend just down the road with the same 'van as me (he bought after inspecting ours) has an airbag ECU failure light. I had the same almost two years ago, and removed it and had it re-flashed before reinstalling. It's an endemic issue in Ducatos, and I've diagnosed both the same part and code with my tools as I had. I've offered to help him remove and repair (c£70) but he'd rather go main dealer for £450+. I actually do understand, but it wouldn't be the route I'd take (or indeed did). (success of reflashing is mixed, but one supplier has a good reputation, and I decided I could risk the £70 and fall back to more expensive solutios if it failed)./
|
|
As far as restricted access goes , take the complete breather hose off the vehicle and dismantle the heater bit on the bench . Don’t need to struggle to get the clips off. Just cut them off and use regular worm drive clips .
|
>As far as restricted access goes , take the complete breather hose off the vehicle..
You're making it easier for him. I was hoping to hear tales of blood and gore. Skinned knuckles, puncture wounds from dirty screwdrivers and digit amputations by mangled hose clamps.
|
>> You're making it easier for him. I was hoping to hear tales of blood and
>> gore. Skinned knuckles, puncture wounds from dirty screwdrivers and digit amputations by mangled hose clamps.
>>
..a confession just to keep you happy, Kevin.
In refitting, despite deliberately trying to avoid it, I dropped the hose clip down the back of the engine. Comme d'habitude, it didn't reach the floor.
It took me a long time to find it, with a mirror and inspection light, hidden away in a cavity in the engine block, just more than a finger's length deep. In trying (blind) to fish it out, I knocked it further and the air turned blue (not for the first time today). Luckily, I then spotted it lying in plain sight and in reach.
The initial location and attempts to retrieve it certainly did cost me some skinned knuckles and a scratched arm. I'm happy to report there've been no amputations (yet).
|
> I'm happy to report there've been no amputations (yet).
That comes later, after the rotting flesh episode.
|
>>
>> That comes later, after the rotting flesh episode.
>>
...I shall be the leader of the Zombie Motorhome Apocalypse... ;-)
|
>> ...I shall be the leader of the Zombie Motorhome Apocalypse... ;-)
supercarblondie.com/off-road-rv-zombie-apocalypse/
|
>...I shall be the leader of the Zombie Motorhome Apocalypse...
Went for a blood test this afternoon and the phlebotomist was a slight mature lady with a trace of East European accent - possibly Transylvanian.
When I mentioned that she might have difficulty hitting a vein because I lost some muscle mass due to covid she slid the needle straight in and said "Not as bad as the fat ones."
{:-o
|
>> the phlebotomist
Love the way they have blood red shoulder tabs on their uniforms, I had one that was quite young and goth - was very appropriate
|
>That comes later, after the rotting flesh episode.
Necrotizing fasciitis. Sounds like something a Labour supporter would call a Tory/Reform voter doesn't it?
|
>> Necrotizing fasciitis. Sounds like something a Labour supporter would call a Tory/Reform voter doesn't it?
>>
...sounds a bit like what I shouted when the hose clip went down the back of the engine....
|
|
Somewhere in my engine bay is a plastic oil container cap. Can't see it and I'm certain it didn't fall out the bottom. I don't think it's anywhere near the exhaust, as I can't smell burning plastic. I looked very carfully under the car after I started it, revved it a few times and drove the car off.
|
|
Oh for the days when you could drop something and it either fell straight through to the floor or rested within easy reach. I had an hour of serious language last year when I dropped the oil filler cap from Mrs O'Reliant's Polo. It naturally disappeared from view and came to rest out of sight where all the hot and sharp bits were.
|
I have a classic car restorer nearby. Enjoy following his stuff on Facebook.
Had a photo the other day of an engine bay, think it was an Escort Mark 2. Huge amount of space around the engine and the most prominent part was the fan belt.
Next thing I saw on FB was a garage showing how they change a wet belt on a Ford ecoboom!!
|
Well at least you got your bits back. Yesterday, I had to drill a 2.5 inch hole in our plastic soil pipe in order to fit a 1.5 inch waste pipe prior to our new drive being started tomorrow.
I cut a lovely neat hole with a hole saw in the pipe ! As the saw penetrated the void, the whole assembly together with a plastic disc shot out of the drill chuck and descended down the pipe with a clunk as it hit the bottom 3 feet below.
No rescue plans are being formulated !
Ted
|
>> No rescue plans are being formulated !
That will come back to bite you
|
>>
>> >> No rescue plans are being formulated !
>>
>> That will come back to bite you
>>
... probably in the bum...
|
OK, figured out rescue strategy...send SWM up onto roof, get her to remove cap from the stench pipe, drop my fishing magnet down on 30 ft of rope and haul the thing up....simples !
Actually, because the arbor went down, it was easier just to go on Amazon and buy a new set, which came today !
Ted
|
>> As far as restricted access goes , take the complete breather hose off the vehicle
>> and dismantle the heater bit on the bench . Don’t need to struggle to get
>> the clips off. Just cut them off and use regular worm drive clips .
>>
...done this morning as it was bright and sunny. A simple(ish) job made piggish by the nature of the fittings, their location and the restricted working space (which isn't an issue for many other things on the Ducato).
The above advice is mainly irrelevant for this vehicle. The heater comes as a part of one hose of a two-hose fitment. Luckily, this is the top, most accessible part, and the heater joins to the bottom hose with something akin to a John Guest quick fitting. The Fiat "single-use" hose clip at the other end shouldn't be too difficult to force with a screwdriver, but clearance for levering is restricted and the problem was exacerbated by the retainer being nowhere near the top. Took some time, but got there.
The other end, as mentioned, should be easy, two tabs to release the retaining collar, and pull off. Unfortunately, one tab was hard up against another part, so a very thin screwdriver was used to lever it elsewhere - and off it came.
The electrical connections were relatively easy, though again somewhat inaccessible.
Replacement was a reverse, but somewhat more easy, and using an S/S "jubilee" clip.
Ran diagnostics, and no errors thrown yet, so fingers crossed.
Last edited by: tyrednemotional on Sun 27 Oct 24 at 12:33
|
I stopped using worm drive hose clips when they all became Chinese carp which you can't tighten.
I searched out a supplier to the oil industry in North Manchester and had a trip up there for some other stuff and the nice man sold me a selection of sizes to fit the Jowett, 12 in all. Cheaper than Amazon and more gentle on the hoses. Plus, they don't leak !
www.amazon.co.uk/Strong-Reinforced-Clamps-Galvanized-Fasteners/dp/B09DGP18N7/
Ted
Last edited by: Webmaster on Tue 29 Oct 24 at 22:02
|
|
The only problems with those ones, Ted, is they loosen with vibration, like on an engine.
|
|
....and they're far too long... ;-)
|
None of mine have ever loosened, Dave. I haven't found a problem with length, just fit the diameter to suit the hose. The extra width over a so-called Jubilee spreads the load on the rubber. They're fine.
Ted
|
Home mechanics - carmalade
