Hi, calling all Waxoyl fans.
I want to treat the inner rear wheel arches on my MX5 and don't know which Waxoyl product would be best - regular Waxoyl, Underbody Seal or Underbody Seal Schutz - what are the main differences?
Their website is pretty hopeless giving no specific info on the various products.
Also, any views on Dinitrol as an alternative?
Thanks
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Waxoyl seems the easiest to come by but in tests anything from Dinitrol or Bilt Hamber seems to beat it.
www.dinitrol.co.uk/rust_prevention_waxes_and_oils.aspx
www.bilthamber.com/dynaxs50.html
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Waxoil is useless, merely trapping the moisture against the metal. Dinitrol is much better
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>>
>> Waxoil is useless
How do you know this Z, have you ever used it yourself.
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>> >>
>> >> Waxoil is useless
>>
>> How do you know this Z, have you ever used it yourself.
Yes used it years ago on a Datsun Cherry the missus had. Complete wast of time, it never gets properly into the seams or metal and as soon as water gets behind it capliary action does the rest
It actually promotes rust.
Complete dog poo.
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Yes used it years ago on a Datsun Cherry the missus had.
Zero,
Promoting rust on a Datsun Cherry is like giving the Manchester City manager an extra £1m to spend.
It - or he - doesn't need it.
The early Jap stuff imported into this country rusted faster than anything we ever made.
Last edited by: ifithelps on Mon 6 Sep 10 at 09:49
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I use ordinary brush-on waxoyl, which is very good. Don't use that black tarry "underseal" stuff at all, ever. Waxoyl will come off when blasted with water and road filth, but in wheel arches is easy to re-do. It usefully seeps into crevices and stays there.
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Ordinary waxoyl in wheelarches gets washed away.
Dinitrol does not.
I have used both...
Dinitrol is modern chmistry: Waxoyl is unchanged from 40 odd years ago when I started motoring...and it was poor then..
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>> Ordinary waxoyl in wheelarches gets washed away.
>> Dinitrol does not.
Use Dynax UB for areas that get road dirt flung at them.
www.carnaubawaxshop.com/shop/viewproduct.php?product_id=202
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Thanks for the replies all.
I've gone for Dinitrol 4941. It gives a hard, black waxy finish that is similar to the original undercoat finish.
I was put off by the fact that Waxoyl never properly cures therefore could either melt or wash off in an exposed area. Still happy to use it in concealed areas but the Dinitrol seems more of a permanent solution.
I've read good reviews on Bilt Hamber but didn't go for it as they only do it in brown.
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my recovery wagon has chassis black covered by waxoyl black ,i can assure the members of the house it neither washes off or promotes rust
it does what it says on the tin
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I'm rathet surprised by the adverse mentions of Waxoyl. It seems good stuff from what I've seen over the last good many years. If you put it on wet metal, it displaces the wet, rather than trapping it. If it's scratched, it seems to protect the scratched metal too. Yes, it stays soft, but it's easy to brush on a bit more, and the areas (at least on cars with steel wings exposed to water and filth flung off by tyres) where it does get worn off don't often go rusty anyway. Where it gets into nooks and crannies, it does not come off!
The worst thing you can put on is "hard" underseal, which certainly does trap water and muck behind it where there's a chip or crack.
I haven't tried Dinitrol - apparently it is also a wax type coating, and comes in several forms - a quick look on the 'Net shows that both waxoyl and dinitrol are well thought of.
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After the response to my post I thought I would share some pics of the finished job.
Very happy with the results of the Dinitrol. 4941 is a solvent based aerosol that gives a thin but hard, waxy film that fully cures (unlike Waxoyl). It's self levelling so gives a nice flat satin finish - looks pretty factory to my eyes.
Before :
i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx262/eternalred5/cleanwheelarch.jpg
i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx262/eternalred5/cleanwheelarch2.jpg
After :
i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx262/eternalred5/dinitrol.jpg
i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx262/eternalred5/dinitrol1.jpg
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Mind if i ask Marc why haven't you cleaned up the rust on the suspension/subframe and treated that, looks promising so far then.
By the way like some others i find the apparently third rate Waxoyl perfectly good enough to help my vehicles stay rust free.
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Mind if i ask Marc why haven't you cleaned up the rust on the suspension/subframe and treated that
>>>>>>
> looking at the photos that looks more important than the seeiy bits
plus you will need to do the inside of the innerwing if you hope to achieve long lasting elixior of mazda
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A full treatment of the underside and chassis components may be on the cards at some point. I've only had the car three months though. I have a 'to do' list of future jobs/improvements to go through.
The car is my 2nd car (garaged) that doesn't tend to go out in the wet and will be SORNd over winter so I'm not overly concerned about future excessive corrosion/salt damage this coming winter.
I did this job as when I cleaned the car I scooped a few handfuls of muck out of each of the arch lips (not protected by liners) and with this being a common corrosion point on the MX5 thought I better treat it. A small, quick localised clean of the inner wheelarches with an old toothbrush revealed the patchwork paintwork you see on the before pics. This is where the factory weatherseal has worn through to body colour over the last nine years.
So I scrubbed it all back and treated the whole lot.
I'm also a fan of Waxoyl. I had to go back to bare metal around the number plate lamps on the bootlid underside (another common rust point). After treating with Kurust, Zinc 182 and then repainting I filled the inner section of the bootlid (via a drain hole) and the crimped edge of the bootlid skin with Waxoyl.
After looking around on the internet I reckoned Dinitrol was a better product for a high impact area like the inner wheelarches of a RWD car.
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>> Kurust, Zinc 182 and then repainting I filled the inner section of the bootlid (via
>> a drain hole) and the crimped edge of the bootlid skin with Waxoyl.
I hope you left the drainhole open?
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Lovely pics.
Thanks for showing us.
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"I hope you left the drainhole open?"
Of course - just used it for access to the box section with the 3" Waxoyl spray tube (think of the red tube you get with a can of WD40 but shorter).
It's water getting into the drain hole and sitting there which causes the corrosion from inside. Poor design. I gather Mazda replaced or repaired bootlids when these cars were within the 6 year anti perforation warranty.
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Years ago I used to coat the distributor and ignition leads with Waxoyl - the cars started first time every time in winter.
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>>A small, quick localised clean of the inner wheelarches with an old toothbrush revealed the patchwork paintwork you see on the before pics. This is where the factory weatherseal has worn through to body colour over the last nine years.
Are you sure? That's what my wheel arches looked like after I blasted off the top layer of paint with a pressure washer. ;>(
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>> it does what it says on the tin
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Surely that's a treatment for woodworm not tinworm! ;-)
I have been trying to preserve the patina of the GMC's paintwork, and have had boiled linseed oil recommended to me by a couple of people who do know what they're talking about.
Anyone else used it on old cars?
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"and have had boiled linseed oil recommended to me by a couple of people who do know what they're talking about"
I used boiled linseed oil on the fabric body of my 1929 Riley 9 Monaco 40 odd years ago..
It's good for wood and very expensive..
Mixed with beeswax and heated gently it's an ideal treatment for beehives....
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Nothing this side of God could stop a 1970s Datsun from rusting.
I've used waxoyl for years and it's a good product. You want the black waxoyl-underseal for areas that are subject to abrasion. This is NOT conventional underseal, it dries but remains slightly flexible which is what you want.
For areas where abrasion doesn't occur or only lightly, use conventional waxoyl. They do a black one now which is slightly thicker than the clear but like any waxoyl you can thin it down with white spirit if you want. Best applied by spray (I use one of those cheap plant sprays and then bin it) but I often use a brush. Again a cheap brush is fine and then bin it, no point messing around with white spirit. For a really professional job if you want to get in the chassis rails you will need an air line.
Any product is only as good as the competence of the user. I've seen people using waxoyl and similar products just slapping it on, thinking it will sort out all corrosion this side of anything. The areas to be treated need to be clean and dry (although waxoyl will displace some moisture it's still better to have it bone dry if possible). All loose and flaky rust needs to be removed and the area surrounding a rusty patch needs to be cleaned back to clean metal. So it can be a long, tedious and messy job but the preparation is vital. I then apply a thin layer of waxoyl, let it dry and then apply a second thicker coat. Be careful not to block up any drainage holes or channels.
One of our workhorses is an old Volvo estate. About five years ago the MoT warned of corrosion around both rear jacking points. It passed but would need welding in the next year or two. I got underneath and could see the areas, cleaned the flakey rust and underseal back (I use a drill with a small rotary wire brush) and applied waxoyl by brush (goggles and mask essential). It's passed every MoT since so waxoyl must be doing some good. Even if it's only slowing the decay down, that's good enough for me. Once a year I get underneath and if I think necessary brush a bit more waxoyl on.
Dinitrol? Never used it so can't comment. Doesn't seem to be so easy to buy though and I've been perfectly happy with waxoyl.
If you need to get underneath the car then take all sensible safety precautions. I've got a pair of adjustable ramps which are brilliant - wish I had bought them years ago. You drive the car on (easy as they're very low) and then crank them up which gives me about 40 cms clearance from the bottom of the tyre to the tarmac. Also I find in my old age you want something comfortable to lie on if you're getting underneath the car - I've got some old foam from a mattress. Also a hand bell is useful - I ring it and the missus brings me a cuppa. You don't want to be getting waxoyl on the kitchen worktops. All these little things make an unpleasant job a bit more tolerable.
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>> If you need to get underneath the car then take all sensible safety precautions.
Changing a starter motor on my MG Midget when I was 18 I'd stupidly jacked up both front wheels to get underneath. Of course the thing slipped off the jacks pinning me to the ground and crushing all the air out of my chest. Couldn't shout, couldn't breath actually. Had to sort of bench press it off me and slither out. Not easy or very pleasant but it was either that or peg out.
Never been under a car since without properly securing it but still to this day keep an old bicycle bell in the toolbox in case I have to raise the alarm and can't shout.
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Mazda MX5 - Waxoyl query - Victorbox
