Rear tyre on the FRV looked a bit squidgy last night, and sure enough found a nail in the tread and at 10psi.
Put on the space saver, ran to a nearby ASDA to check pressure - was at 51psi so topped it up to 60 as stamped on the tyre.
Took wheel to Costco this am and had it repaired/balanced.
Got home this evening and on removing the space saver noted the roll-bar droplink had completed separated at one end (two ball joints with an interconnecting rod).
Had been knocking a bit for an while, and these droplinks are the weakest thing on the car - 2-3 years seems average for them.
By God the nuts are a pita to undo - rusted in and the ball joint tends to simply rotate as you try to loosen in (Honda ones have an allen bolt hole in the end - absolutely useless by the time they need replaced - this GSF one looks much the samewww.gsfcarparts.com/527ho0140 ).
End result was (same as last time) using a blowtorch to destroy the plastic cup of the ball joint to allow the lower one to be separated (I don't have a grinder), then big mole grips on the ball while significant twisting force on the nut (oo er).
Fortunately had a droplink in the house that I'd been planning to use in a couple of weeks when doing its service.
Sweet as a nut again and no more clonking on the crappy roads.
I give it 3 months until the OSR link fails....
Last edited by: VxFan on Mon 14 May 18 at 10:26
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>> Rear tyre on the FRV looked a bit squidgy................
............etc.........
>> Sweet as a nut again and no more clonking on the crappy roads.
>>
>> I give it 3 months until the OSR link fails....
I thought you Scottish GPs had chaps to do all that sort of thing for you?
No?
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Sounds as though your attempts to become an orthopod were frustrated early in life? Maybe because you do not make mention of a large hammer :)
Last edited by: sherlock47 on Mon 14 May 18 at 07:05
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Orthopaedic surgeons...... As strong as an ox, and nearly as smart.
No hammer but plenty of tommy bar on ratchet handle action to get the socket off the nut prior to blowtorch time!
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ARB links are always a pain. I usually don't bother trying to undo them anymore, just lop the bolt off with the grinder. A 4.5" angle grinder is only about £40.... a worthy investment for spark making!
Last edited by: RichardW on Mon 14 May 18 at 08:13
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Its funny, no-one ever notices a decline in ride or handling when the drop links break, only the clonking is a giveaway.
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Not sure that it is that surprising if you think about the mechanics of it.
Driving in straight line smooth road - no influence on handling
Driving in straight line hit pothole - the deflection caused by the pothole probably masks everything
Going into a bend there will be only a very slight delay before 'slack' is taken up, the clonk will probably mask the perception of a steering delay?
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>> Its funny, no-one ever notices a decline in ride or handling when the drop links
>> break, only the clonking is a giveaway.
>>
The last time " Dad I had a knocking from the front of the car but it has stopped now "
Yes that's cos one part of it has been punched out :-)
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I'm suspicious the link may have finally separated after I jacked the car up to change the wheel as I didn't notice it on fitting the spare.
Entirely possible I missed it, of course, but it's right there staring at you once the wheel is off.
Also I invariably have 3 kids in the back and the missus when driving, so the amount of slalom driving is a tad limited.
The best performance upgrade I fitted on my bangernomics Forester was a Pedders rear ARB.
20mm dia vs 14mm original - cost abou 100 quid but almost entirely dialled out the understeer
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Driving kids to childminder Thursday morning heard a faint whine from the car.
Drove absolutely fine, no warning lights on.
Whine changed with engine revs rather than road speed and present when idling.
Got back home, popped bonnet....
Lots of oil sitting on the engine bay undertray just behind the radiator.
Not red, so could rule out ATF, and engine dipstick still on maximum (changed the oil 500 miles ago with Petronas 0W-20 - only 20 quid for 5 litres...)
Had me bamboozled for 10 minutes until I saw the PAS reservoir looking lower than low.
Failure was a metal hose that runs from the reservoir, in front of the radiator, and back up to the reservoir - never noticed a PAS fluid cooler before on any of my cars.
( tinyurl.com/yxcothhm )
Anyhoos the hose was rusty AF and now I have the front bumper, grille and undertray off with the car on ramps in my drive waiting for a new hose to arrive tomorrow (Cox Motors - a shade under £70 delivered)
Oh, and 2 litres of Honda PAS fluid at £17/litre (ouch)
Last edited by: Lygonos on Sun 23 Jun 19 at 22:55
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