My current car a Golf 1.6 TDI woul retail at around £8,500 from a dealer.
My first question is how much should I be prepared to sell if for in a private sale. Would £7,500 be reasonable?
My second question is if I sold it privately how much would I be likely to save on buying a new car costing say around £20,000 compared with a trade in deal for the same car
Basically I'm trying to decide if selling privately is worth the hassle.
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Try webuyanycar for a guide price.
Try Evans Halshaw as they say the beat WBAC
£20K discounts - look around the brokers
New model new car that is selling - low discount
Older model will get a big discount especially if in stock & rooted to the showroom floor.
Draw up a short list of suitable cars & try the brokers, see a few dealers sites & see what they are punting...............reserve a good deal of time.
Last year my son bought on a lease a car - £30-£40 / month less than other dealers & £400 down rather £2-£3,500 for the same make & model. Lots of homework & 3 x Saturdays trekking round sites.
Watch out for unnecessary additions hidden in quotes - polishing, Gap Insurance, change of Interest rate sleight of hand etc etc
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When I sold my Hyundai, Evans Halshaw gave me £800 more than the WBAC price.
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In theory, you should be able to achieve from a dealer the same discount as for a cash purchase if they allow you the underlying trade value for your car, so the loss in trading in would be the extent to which the £7,500 (if that is what you could achieve privately) and the trade value.
By trade value I mean what they would get it underwritten for - unless they are confident of of putting their own value on it, a dealer would typically get a pledge from a trader to buy it, whish is as good as cash to the dealer (and may also result in a bung to the salesman).
However - any sensible dealer will try to take a bit more out of the deal by fudging the deal and quoting a trade-in figure assuming no discount, or a simple cost-to-change. The invoice will almost invariably show the underlying discounted figure, and the trade-in value net of the over-allowance (the "discount") because that minimises VAT and maximises profit.
I always split the two sides of the transaction - I want to know what discount they are giving me, and what they are valuing my car at. Then I can take the best discount and decide whether to dispose of my car separately.
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What sort of figur am I going to be offered for a trade in. Retail is around £8,500. Will I get 60% of that?
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If you put the details into the webuyanycar website you'll get a rough idea of what the dealer will offer. If it retails at £8.5k I'd expect trade in/ WBAC to be around £6k. But, I'd imagine that a Golf in good condition is the sort of retail stock that used car dealers look for, and since WBAC own BCA (or one of the auction houses) its possible that auction prices for those might be high, and so you might be offered more. The question from the dealer perspective will whether they can retail it them selves or if it's it's too old for them to retail under their used car scheme.
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Thanks for that. Just trie WBAC who quote £6660 which more than I thought they would offer. That gives me a base line for a trade in value.
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It's worth putting the spec of your new car into one of the broker websites as well - I use either DriveTheDeal or Coast2CoasCars - to see how much you should be paying. Subtract the WBAC price from the broker price and you have a target cost to change number to work with too
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I've got quotes from DTD and CarWow so I now have.I have a bit of clarity on the cost to change.
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Odd isn't it? Well, it isn't really, because nobody thinks of it as odd. But it is odd when you think about it. Thinking about things isn't recommended by the way, too many things are odd if you think about them.
Anyway, let's imagine you bought a pair of shoes three years ago. A nice pair of shoes. You've worn them of course, but you've looked after them, kept them polished, had them heeled when necessary, replaced the laces, you know, generally cherished them. But now you'd like a new pair. The old ones are a bit out of date. You take them to your local shoe shop, you choose a new pair and then ask the assistant how much they'll give you in part exchange for your old shoes against your new shoes...
Or take the same scenario with a freezer, a tent, a bicycle, a sofa, well, you see what I mean.
With a car though, it doesn't seem, indeed isn't, odd.
Odd though, don't you think?
Maybe not.
As you were.
;-)
Last edited by: Runfer D'Hills on Wed 28 Dec 16 at 20:31
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Best not to think about shoes then. Not much of a market for odd shoes I would have thought.
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Well, oddly enough, lots of people have two different sized feet and have to buy shoes to fit the biggest one. Life is odd. Often.
Anyway, what sort of new car are you thinking of?
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> Or take the same scenario with a freezer,
chap near us does that, px on white goods.
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Odd though Sooty, unless you're in Yorkshire or somewhere like that I suppose. ;-)
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I don't know, is it odd? Odd as pxing your car? He refurbs them and resells. Let me know if you want a cheap freezer.
unless you're in Yorkshire
I wished.
Last edited by: sooty123 on Wed 28 Dec 16 at 21:03
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>> Odd though Sooty, unless you're in Yorkshire or somewhere like that I suppose. ;-)
>>
There's money in them old Yorkshire washing machines, tha' knows.....
tinyurl.com/yorkshirewashingmachine
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You've been in the trade, Manatee? Reads like it!
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The suggestion of splitting the transaction is very wise advice. It gives a transparency to the deal that will not be obvious to a lot of people. 'Cost to change' is a way to allow the salesperson to control you.
The other advice I would give is negotiate with the person who actually can authorise the deal. The only advantage of dealing with a salesperson is that you may be able to make an of the books deal. ( I always insist on a a spare, no can of gunk, but am not willing to pay new wheel costs.)
My last 3 cash new car purchases matched (or bettered) a DtD price - only 1 involved a trade in. I subsequently found how that was disposed of - an au ction sale and the dealer made a £6 profit before costs. The trade in price was given to me before any discount negotiating.
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>>The other advice I would give is negotiate with the person who actually can authorise the deal
That is a very good advise. When I was looking for my first personal car after 30 years the sales person was going back and forth to the dealer principal to check on prices. Its a right pain and I couldn't get any body language hints as to how low he would go.
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I suppose the difference between cars and, say, washing machines is that you don't look at your 3-yo washing machine and think 'wouldn't a nice shiny new washing machine be nice...really impress the neighbours...' etc. You keep it until it goes wrong; wrong to the extent that repairs cost more than a new one.
Our previous washing machine, tumble dryer and dishwasher all lasted over 20 years. All Bosch - a sort of equivalent of Audi, perhaps (Miele being Mercedes - good but overpriced). Peter S above would no doubt agree that there's nothing wrong with old Audis - but most of us don't keep them for 20 years.
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Miele are not overpriced, they are priced based on the quality and the reliability of up to 20 years or more!! My Miele washing machine is 14+ years old and has never missed a beat to date.
Same for Sebo vacuum cleaners, but Bosch is not as good (we've found) around six to 10 years ago....:-( The Bosch fridge lasted just under five years - it replaced a near 30 year old Lec that was still working at the time.
Remember, buy cheap, buy twice (at least).
Last edited by: Stuartli on Thu 29 Dec 16 at 00:49
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>> Miele are not overpriced, they are priced based on the quality and the reliability of
>> up to 20 years or more!!
We bought our Miele tumble drier half price from Currys as an ex demo model. Been perfect for 6 years so far.
LOTS of margin there.
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>> I suppose the difference between cars and, say, washing machines is that you don't look
>> at your 3-yo washing machine and think 'wouldn't a nice shiny new washing machine be
>> nice...really impress the neighbours...' etc. .
>>
And engage in conversations based on "What car do you drive?" or personalise the washing machine's serial number so that it incorporates their name. Or keep it in the drive because its slot under the worktop is full of junk.
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On the last point does putting a car in a garage every night do anything to prolong its life?
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>> On the last point does putting a car in a garage every night do anything
>> to prolong its life?
>>
It keeps it out of the sun if garaged in the day. UV kills seals.
And it stops disks from rusting - if they are garaged with warm or dry brakes.
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But who is going to garage their car during the day? Certainly not anyone who uses it regularly for say commuting unlesss they work nights
Never had problem with discs and less hassle just to replace them surely.
Unless you are going to "mothball" a car putting it in a garage doea little for it in terms of reliability or working life. It might be a good idea in a crime area but that's another thing. For most people a garage has far more utility as a storage area and workshop than a home for a car.
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Well, to stumble off at a tangent, if my mountain bikes are wet when I return from a trip and I put them away in the garage wet, the steel bits rust. If I leave them outside to dry naturally, even if that means waiting a day or two for a dry spell, they don't rust.
So, maybe that applies to cars too. Wouldn't know.
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I think that in the days when cars rusted garaging them made them last longer. I sense that these days it makes no difference. I'm not really sure what kills cars these days - probably a broken aircon compressor, usually.
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It's prolongs my life. An extra ten minutes in bed instead of scraping the ice off it before an early start.
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If given the choice I would have a car port for the car and a decent brick built insulated double glazed store/workroom instead of a dark and drafty garage.
A car port gives shade in the summer keeping the car cool and keeps off the snow and most of the frost in winter and is a lot less faffing about than putting a car in a garage every night.
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That sounds like a good compromise. Problem being most houses are on a small plot. Although I know a few people that have converted their integrated garages into another bedroom or store room. Those with them garages don't use them for cars. I wonder if home builders might
change their plans, haven't seen much evidence of it.
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I think planners have to have an amount of off road parking per house, certainly there was something like that round here when neighbour wanted to move his detached garage. ISTR he had to factor in a second off road parking space.
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Yeah I think that's in the planning guidelines. I suppose they'd have to get that changed first.
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For many people the cost to change is the deciding factor in a car purchase. I usually have a budget in mind and really it matters not a jot what the prices of the intended purchase, or the P/X allowance are - if the budget figure is within my grasp and the car to be bought is what I want - that's fine.
People get far too fixated about their perception of the value of their car is, that's why silly inflated P/X allowances were created!
(I used to do it when I was in the trade, as well as offering a £1000 minimum P/X , cunningly available by putting a few non-factory extras onto a new car and hiking the price enough to allow for dull customers price perception fantasies)
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Yes but how on earth do you work out what a reasonable "price to change" is if you have no idea of either the value of the car you are buying or the one you are selling. Just concentrating on your budget seems a quick way to be relieved of your money and being left with a heap of junk by your friendly car dealer.
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A typical research problem; not lack of information but far too much of it, and that requiring considerable tweaking. You could further bedevil yourself with Auto Trader, British Car Auctions, HJ Used Car prices, Parker's Guide and WiseBuyer's Guide.
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What car you interested in CGN?
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Not quite sure. Actually quite happy with the Golf. It does nearly everything I want really.I quite like it's understated style.
The real issue is one of access. A dodgy hip for me and arthritis problems for my wife means it can be awkward to get in and out at times.
Was going to have a look at the Golf SV and my wife quite likes the Yeti - we almost bought one when we bought the Golf.
Any suggestions welcome.
Last edited by: CGNorwich on Sat 31 Dec 16 at 20:07
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Is it just a higher car that you get into rather than drop into that you need?
Might you or your wife benefit from extra leverage from a handle when getting in and out. And maybe a rotating seat pad?
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A higher seat and a door where you don't need to duck your head would be good.
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>>maybe a rotating seat pad?
A cheaper solution is a plastic shopping bag. It works well for a very heavy, semi-disabled friend of the wife.
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I think the yeti is a good choice, their owners rate them highly. Maybe look at a c max?
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Getting the car serviced next week so will have a look in the VW showroom and the nearby Skoda deals.
Had the original CMax which had great access but was the most unreliable car I have ever owned so a bit loathe to repeat the experience. When you have stood behind a crash barrier on th M11 in rain of biblical proportions waiting for a breakdown truck and sworn you would never buy a Ford again you are reluctant to break your oath!
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A Suzuki Splash or a Vauxhall Agila B (same car) take a lot of beating for access. You don't have to crouch to get in one and the tall body means you don't have to bend your head much either. They're small cars and no longer made, but it would probably be useful to sit in one and use it as a yardstick to find something else.
Last edited by: John Boy on Sat 31 Dec 16 at 20:52
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Have a look at a Macan S. easy access and egress for those stiff of limb. Good residuals y'know!
I'm all in favour of redistribution of wealth
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Our 8 year old ( actually nearly 9 year old come to think ) Qashqai has been utterly and totally reliable for the 6 years we've owned it and is still a pleasant drive. Not "sporty" as such, but a very comfortable and relaxing thing to potter about in. Can't fault it.
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So is a Macan. I'd buy one because it's easier to spell.
The base model has the 2.0 Gti engine, which I suppose is acceptable if you just want to potter.
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Cost to change - Falkirk Bairn
