Do any of you know of a wheel seller who has a website where I can specify or filter wheel by bore size ?
Rather than selecting a wheel then going into the technical details (very time consuming) I'd rather just filter any wheels by the bore size. Selecting the OE manufacturer does not guarantee the wheel you choose will be the correct centre bore size.
I do not want to use spigot rings if I can avoid.
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I thought they were basically specified by diameter, off-set and PCD (pitch circle diameter). Bore size is a new one one me, although I've not looked at the things for a few years now.
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>> I thought they were basically specified by diameter, off-set and PCD (pitch circle diameter).
Those too, but most wheels are spigot mounted so the 'ole needs to be the right size, or oversize with an annular spacer to fill the gap. Aftermarket wheels are usually supplied for a particular model with the appropriate sized spacer ring and a near-enough offset.
I quite incidentally discovered a few years ago that Land Rover wheels are not spigot mounted - they use quite large diameter studs and conical nuts to centre the wheels up.
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What is the issue with spigot rings, may I ask? They seem pretty much the norm.
Just curious.
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Not an issue as such I would just prefer not to have them on my wheels.
I have them on my winter wheels and find I have to source a new set of rings every 4 years or so. They're made from plastic these days you see.
What I'm really saying in a roundabout way is if I'm going to spend the thick end of £1000+ then I'd rather they were the right size for my car. I think the rings are to enable the manufacturers to offer fewer sizes and the aftermarket shops don't have to carry as much stock.
I have size 9 feet, I could buy size 10, 11 or 12 shoes and pack them for my feet but I'd rather wear a pair of size 9s.
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Plastic? I guess i might try to avoid them too given that.
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Surely it's the studs/bolts/nuts that centre and secure the wheel - the spigot is just an aid to aligning the holes when fitting? Nice to have perhaps, but hardly vital unless you do a lot of pit-stop wheel changes?
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I thought the centre spigot takes part of the loads on the wheel, I don't like the idea of plastic bodge rings.
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>> Surely it's the studs/bolts/nuts that centre and secure the wheel - the spigot is just
>> an aid to aligning the holes when fitting? Nice to have perhaps, but hardly vital
>> unless you do a lot of pit-stop wheel changes?
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That's not my experience.
The winter wheels I have were used on my previous P2 S60. that had a centre bore of 65.7mm, my newer Y20 S60 is 63.4mm. When I first fitted the winter wheels to the newer car I used the spigot rings off the old car. The vibration told me there was something wrong, that's when I found the difference in centre bore sizes.
New rings, vibration has gone away. It kind of explains why I had to replace them on the old car too.
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No, the studs/bolts secure the wheel to the car. The spigot takes the weight of the car.
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>> No, the studs/bolts secure the wheel to the car. The spigot takes the weight of
>> the car.
>>
I'm out of date then. On the Volvo there isn't a spigot - the studs/nuts locate the wheel and take all the weight. Exactly the same as with steel wheels.
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>> I'm out of date then.
Either that or I'm wrong.
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IIRC number cruncher determined that about half the torque is provided for by friction between the wheel to whatever it's mounted to, the rest by the bolts/studs.
I think all the wheels I've dealt with have a conical hole in the wheel and a tapered nut/bolt to fix them. Two fixings and the wheel's accurately located. I've run cars with slightly oversized centre bore without any problems.
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>>IIRC number cruncher determined that about half the torque is provided for by friction between the wheel to whatever it's mounted to, the rest by the bolts/studs.<<
I remember him saying that too.
I miss number_cruncher and wish he's post again.
Pat
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IIRC number cruncher ....
I thought that I remembered that, but a a search did not find it. Perhaps it was on HJ?
Does this mean that you should not use copperease (or whatever) on the wheel-hub interface to stop corrosion issues causing the wheel to stick tight. Similarly some people suggest using a plastic non stick gasket.
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www.meaforensic.com/wheel-separation-investigation-metallurgical-expert-mark-bailey-mea-forensic
This makes for interesting reading, (particularly the text after Fig7) and onwards. Some worrying pictures!
It does however make no reference to applying anti seize compounds to the mating surfaces.
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Alloy wheels by centre bore - Slidingpillar
