HJ used to complain about cars that sat at traffic lights with their brake lights on. He said they dazzled him.
Today I was stopped behind such a car, and pointed it out to Herself. It wasn't dazzling me exactly - daytime - but I saw what HJ meant of course.
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Easy on a manual car. Handbrake on in neutral. Not so on an auto. This auto-hold does not feel safe enough...I get the feeling the rear of the V40 is overlit in this respect.
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No handbrake? No neutral setting?
Do me a bleeding favour Rob...
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With hill start assist manual cars are just as easy to hold on the footbrake even if in neutral, but I suspect many are in first with the clutch disengaged.
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I was actually taught to drive to stay in 1st at lights but with the hand brake on. I think it is so that learners will set off more quickly at lights. I always just leave it neutral and hand brake on though.
I have also noticed that those stupidly bright headlights seem to be less of an issue these days, I assume people are learning in many cases they are just an MOT failure.
Last edited by: RattleandSmoke on Sat 31 Jan 15 at 13:49
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I was actually taught to drive to stay in 1st at lights but with the hand brake on.
Not that I was going to, but that's you marked as someone who'll never get to drive my three wheeler! Any car with a carbon thrust race will wear the thrust race prematurely, and some engines have internal crankshaft thrust bearings that wear out if you do this too. I think the Triumph 2000 engine is susceptible here.
Traffic lights are a bit of a pain these days as nearly all of them have shrouds to block their view from other directions and as engaging first from neutral takes longer than most cars, I have to watch the other traffic like a hawk
Last edited by: Slidingpillar on Sat 31 Jan 15 at 14:23
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Yes,I thought carbon thrust races went out with the Morris Eight in the Thirties but I stand corrected.Our local police(just round corner from their driving school-HIGHLY TRAINED DRIVERS SIR)have not been trained in this procediure-most sit at lights with foot on brake.
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Hillman Imp is the most recent car with a carbon thrust race that I know of.
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I drive an auto. Very rare for me to sit with foot on brake. Brake lights when stationary annoy me, and I try not to inflict the horror on others. Indicators on when stationary in a queue are also an irritation. Have been known to get out and tell the guy in front to turn it off.
In a queue the other day and noticed the car behind had a faulty light. Got out to tell him and I think he thought I was going to attack him. He was grateful for the comment. I am 73 and don't think I am a physical threat to anyone, unless I fall down on them.
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"Brake lights when stationary annoy me, and I try not to inflict the horror on others. Indicators on when stationary in a queue are also an irritation. "
Same here; I always turns the indicators off when the car comes to a standstill, and indicate again once moving. I thought I was the only person this considerate - I certainly am in Bury St Edmunds!
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>>
>> Same here; I always turns the indicators off when the car comes to a standstill,
>> and indicate again once moving. I thought I was the only person this considerate -
>> I certainly am in Bury St Edmunds!
>>
I indicate when I am the last person in the queue, to warn the next car not to get stuck behind if they want to go straight on. Then I turn off, until we get moving again.
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I'm even more considerate. I never use the things at all ;-)
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>> Same here; I always turns the indicators off when the car comes to a standstill,
>> and indicate again once moving.
You don't have to keep turning them on and off, they do it automatically you know.
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Two, Haywain! I also live in BSE.
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>> as engaging first from neutral takes longer than most cars, I have to watch the other traffic like a hawk
Yes, crash gearboxes (or gearboxes with totally knackered synchromesh, which used to be very common) do take patience and skill. But holding the clutch pedal down, let alone holding the car on a slope by slipping the clutch, will soon muck up your transmission. Waiting for the lights to change, car should be in neutral with handbrake applied if necessary. Nothing else will do. That way, clutch and gearbox will last as long as they are capable of lasting. Seems silly to knacker them before their time through ignorance or erroneous training. But then so many drivers are silly, through no fault of their own poor dears.
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>>Seems silly to knacker them before their time through ignorance or
>> erroneous training. But then so many drivers are silly, through no fault of their own
>> poor dears.
>>
>>
Rubbish, they are lease car drivers who don't give a stuff about the car. :)
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I mostly drive automatics. They come out of "Drive" if I need to maneuver or I'm getting out of them.
At lights or in traffic jams I keep my foot on the brake, as does everybody else as far as I can tell [or care].
My retinas remain unseared, my gearboxes unknackered.
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it's clearly time for a return to trafficators and hand signals. Eliminate all that nasty glare.
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Men walking in front with red flags would fix it.
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You may be on to something. I'll pass on the suggestion to the Department of Transport
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>> some engines have internal crankshaft thrust bearings that wear out if
>> you do this too. I think the Triumph 2000 engine is susceptible here.
>>
That's true. It's a weak point of the design, in all the straight-six range.
There are special bronze bearings available, which are much more robust than the standard white-metal faced kind.
If the end float becomes too great the bearings can fall out into the sump, with dire consequences for the crankshaft and bearing blocks.
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Why signal right when in right turn lane but people do.
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>> Why signal right when in right turn lane but people do.
>>
So that other drivers using the junction have some idea where you are going, they may not be aware that it is a right turn lane. I do not claim to know every turn lane in the UK.
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>> Why signal right when in right turn lane but people do.
The rule about signalling is if it is helpful to another road user, you do it. Better overdone than underdone IMO.
In traffic it's also often harder to pick out the correct lane, road markings are obscured for example.
And those dual purpose lanes at traffic light controlled crossroads, ahead or right - you pull up behind somebody who isn't signalling, to go straight ahead, and when the lights go green the prat switches the right indicator on and blocks your progress...
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Yeh, yeah... the burden of this thread is that you can't win them all, nothing's perfect.
There are other elements: for example with age you are more dazzled by flashing or bright lights. People often have maladjusted headlights.
I would slightly take issue with FMR: he is definitely punishing his transmission fluid and risks overheating the transmission by never moving the lever out of Drive. Obviously the difference it makes is quite small and FMR knows he can afford any extra costs, so doesn't give a toss. Similarly he is young, bright-eyed and bushy-tailed so copes well with all the lights and signals (I do too but I slightly mind having to).
Nevertheless if I were he I would do what I always do in autos at a red light: select Neutral until the light is green or about to be. I'm a bit fussy like that, only cruel to machines in emergency situations.
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I won't say I agonised about that AC, but I did give it some thought when I first had an auto.
In terms of wear, you have a choice between releasing/engaging brake bands in the box, or continuing to stir the fluid at a tickover for a minute or two - is that really going to generate material heat?
Maybe I came to the wrong conclusion - I always leave it in D, and put the handbrake on, if more than a momentary stop.
The trouble with putting it in neutral is the hiatus when you go back to D before the bands clutch in and you can press the gas pedal, to avoid setting off with the snatching that will undo your earlier consideration for the muckyanicals.
Last edited by: Manatee on Sat 31 Jan 15 at 18:24
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Yeah, if you go into neutral you have to get the timing right when you re-engage drive. You're probably right, dirtying the transmission fluid may well be better for the system all round than punishing the differential with all those clunks and clonks... ever engaged Park while the car was moving? Not a thing you'll willingly do again if it's your car.
I had a midsize Chrysler slant six in the US with slushpump 3-speed auto. Very robust and relaxing piece of kit, and remarkably economical driven gently.
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>> And those dual purpose lanes at traffic light controlled crossroads, ahead or right - you
>> pull up behind somebody who isn't signalling, to go straight ahead, and when the lights
>> go green the prat switches the right indicator on and blocks your progress...
>>
At least we now know who the pratt is. :)
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I thought my LED rear lights and brake lights were bright, a laser fog light is in a different league. I wonder if they could be wired up to the brake lights, that would give brake light haters something to moan about. :)
Last edited by: Old Navy on Sat 31 Jan 15 at 19:36
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Have you seen on Youtube the front-firing lasers at CES 2015 (an annual technology show in Las Vegas)? It is the next step after active matrix LED headlights that supplements them with lasers that pick out pedestrians!
www.youtube.com/watch?v=-WvK5WC4ns0
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Km7YDM4VDSc
Last edited by: Shiny Tailpipes on Sun 1 Feb 15 at 09:46
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>> them with lasers that pick out pedestrians!
>>
>> www.youtube.com/watch?v=-WvK5WC4ns0
>> www.youtube.com/watch?v=Km7YDM4VDSc
They need considerably more megawatts than that to pick out the pedestrians I have in mind.
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"Lasers on Stun, Mr Spock"
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I thought I did a major upgrade by fitting sealed beam units to the Jowett !
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Sealed beam units are usually horrid. Is it 7" units on the Jowett? If so, units that take H4 bulbs are pretty easy to get. Not as easy as when I started motoring as everyone was converting sealed beams to H4 units and loads of manufacturers made them.
But the Wipac Quadoptics are still available, as they are original fitment to Landrover Defenders. This firm sell handy kits as well:
www.s-v-c.co.uk/product/classic-mini-headlight-upgrade-kit/
No connection with SVC other than being a satisfied customer.
edited for amusing spelling
Last edited by: Slidingpillar on Sun 1 Feb 15 at 11:17
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My main reason for fitting them was not really because of the eye frying light output. I fitted Mini ones so I could transfer the side lights into the sealed beam, a la Mini and use the original side lights underneath as indicators.
The side lights had a 5 watt small bayonet ' pea ' bulb and I needed more to get more to make them flash. I sourced some modern bulb rated at 21watt at the local auto leccie shop. These fit the bulb holders and work fine. The front indicators are clear, not amber but this is ok for the year.
My ' flippers ' on the B post are also reliable. Controlled by a clockwork switch to self cancel..... ain't technology great ?
I'm not too bothered about headlight brightness...I don't even drive my ' modern ' in the dark now.
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I'd hardly use the term "eye frying output" for 60/55w H4 bulb headlights. With good reflectors and lenses, one drive at 70 mph safely, but I would regard sealed beams as only good for 55 or 60 at a pinch. That was the reason I first used Quadoptics in about 1981.
My headlights only have 35/35w scooter bulbs fitted (cheaper and easier to get than the H4 standard, but are easily converted with a pair of tinsnips). Before anyone goes "yuck, how dim" they are actually far brighter than the wattage would suggest and much brighter than original headlights anyway.
Smaller side light bulbs are quite easy to get in both 9 and 15mm diameter fittings and my pre-war rear lights take 15mm bulbs. I rather suspect someone fitted more modern holders to enable this, but the basic bulbholders are quite easy to get, and being brass, dead easy to further modify with bits of brass sheet and a soldering iron.
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Now I try to be environmentally aware occasionally. My W204 C-Class auto has stop-start, which only does its thing if I keep my foot on the brakes. If I knock it into neutral and apply the (mechanical) parking brake the engine will start running. Not so good for the environment if I'm merely trying to spare the next driver's retinas...
I've also recently discovered* that if I give the footbrake an extra-firm shove after I've stopped, the word "HOLD" appears in the instrument panel, I can release the pedal and the brakes stay on until I press the accelerator. It's like an EPB auto-hold function, except that once again the brake lights remain lit throughout the stop.
I'm with Mark - why expend the effort to reduce glare for the next driver when 99% of them won't even notice?
*I have a long-held aversion to pressing the footbrake any harder than absolutely necessary; probably due to all the old bangers I've owned where there was a reasonable chance of bursting a hose or a slave cylinder seal if the pressure applied was too great.
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>> Now I try to be environmentally aware occasionally. My W204 C-Class auto has stop-start, which
>> only does its thing if I keep my foot on the brakes. If I knock
>> it into neutral and apply the (mechanical) parking brake the engine will start running.
I don't know why some work like that, last SS I drove you stopped normally put the clutch down into neutral and the engine cut out, then when set off by engaging 1st it restarted. Simple and straight forward, not sure why they aren't all like that?
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I'm guessing that Dave's MB is an auto. Stop start in mine works when in 'drive', but as soon as you take it out of drive it re starts, presumably so you don't get out of the car with the engine 'off' for it to restart at some point!
Last edited by: PeterS on Mon 2 Feb 15 at 06:33
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>> aversion to pressing the footbrake any harder than absolutely necessary; probably due to all the old bangers I've owned where there was a reasonable chance of bursting a hose or a slave cylinder seal if the pressure applied was too great.
Do stop it Dave. I'm getting nightmare flashbacks.
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Brake lights - R.P.
