hi room, been looking to try and unseize locking nut on the polo,s track rod but to no avail, the nice people at halfords tried and they couldnt budge it. i was thinking of purchasing one of those parasene blow torches and applying some heat to the problem
any advise or tips in this procedure would be very helpful
the other idea i had was to apply washers/spacers between the siezed nut and the outer balll joint hoping that may straighten things up (trial and error)
I dont want to have to replace the lot if i can help it.....thanks zoo
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Impact, leverage (torque), penetrating fluid, heat, or a nut splitter are the only things I know of. tinyurl.com/lf83k8l www.ehow.co.uk/way_5534896_way-remove-seized-bolts.html www.spaco.org/MachineShop/StuckFasteners.html
Last edited by: L'escargot on Sat 15 Jun 13 at 09:08
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>>apply washers/spacers between the siezed nut and the outer balll joint
If it's seized, how are you going to insert anything?
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I assume that at the moment you're using two open ended spanners, and hence using one hand on each. Can you stop the spanner on the track rod end from moving by putting something between it and the ground, and then have both hands free to work on the locking nut? You could then hold the spanner with one hand and hit it with a hammer with the other hand.
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Have you got the track rod end off?
It's a long time since I had this problem, on a Morris Oxford IIRC, but the track rod twists as you apply torque to the nut and you can't really shock it. Holding the track rod with a Stilson might help to concentrate the pressure where it's needed.
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>> Have you got the track rod end off?
>>
>> It's a long time since I had this problem, on a Morris Oxford IIRC, but
>> the track rod twists as you apply torque to the nut and you can't really
>> shock it. Holding the track rod with a Stilson might help to concentrate the pressure
>> where it's needed.
>>
I was assuming that the track rod end had flats on it so that you could put a spanner on it. I don't suppose the problem is something silly like a left-hand thread? Lots of advice if you Google for "undoing a track rod end".
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Just remembered I forwarded a recommendation for a mix of ATF and acetone I'd read about.
Ted was going to try it.
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>> I was assuming that the track rod end had flats on it so that you
>> could put a spanner on it. I don't suppose the problem is something silly like
>> a left-hand thread? Lots of advice if you Google for "undoing a track rod end".
The last one I looked at, on the MX5, had 4 flats on the casting not a hexagon. The Civic has hexagons. Some have no flats at all on the casting, or used not to anyway, but we bodgers have no compunction using water pump pliers (the most useful single bodging tool after the Manchester screwdriver) or Stillsons.
I'm pretty sure the Oxford's had no flats at all.
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This sounds odd - the OP's decription is a bit vague.
Is this the nut which holds the taper pin of the track rod end into the steering knuckle? Is it partly undone and the friction from the nyloc nut making the pin just turn as you apply torque?
If so, you need to push the pin into the taper to lock it - can you get a lever in behind the track rod end?, while you turn the nut?
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If all else fails it's usually better to sacrifice the nut rather than risk damaging something else. Cutting an exaggerated flat with an angle grinder just clear of the threads usually releases any tight nut. If not, make another cut on the other side.
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hi, i can hold the inner tie rod by placing an open ended spanner over the flats and wedging it on the wishbone, its just the locking nut that wont budge....thanks for the advice anyway...im looking at the gas torches on amazon theres one for around 13 quid
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Normally you can 'wind up' the track rod until the ball joint wedges against the hub, this then gives you something to push against. Wire brush the thread, then douse it in plus gas and leave it for a day or so then have another go. If it still won't shift then get some heat on it - watch out for the plus gas though, as it's flammable! If the arm wedges up, then you should be able to assist the spanner with your best lump hammer - just make sure the spanner is a good fit so you don't round the nut off. If it won't go after a heating, then douse it plus gas again when it's hot, then try heating it again (carefully!). Just check when you've brushed the threads that it isn't LH thread....!
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>> Just check when you've brushed the threads that it
>> isn't LH thread....!
>>
That's always a good place to start when you can't undo a nut. tinyurl.com/m5w7p5w
Last edited by: L'escargot on Mon 17 Jun 13 at 07:13
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Volkswagen Polo III - seized locking nut - L'escargot
