A reminder
20 March 2013 lots more things to be checked.
www.theaa.com/motoring_advice/car-servicing-repair/mot-changes-2012.html
The legislation to enable the changes required under Directive 2010/48/EU to the MOT test for Classes 4, 5 & 7, will come into force on 20 March 2013. Plans are now underway to enable the items (added to the inspection manuals in January 2012), which are currently being advised, to become fail items from 20 March 2013 where defects are found.
Last edited by: VxFan on Sun 17 Mar 13 at 00:05
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Thanks Henry a timely reminder.
The old MB goes in Monday for its annual full service and MOT, too old to be affected by many of the changes there though.
And i'm off till next weekend, yes...;)
Last edited by: gordonbennet on Sat 16 Mar 13 at 21:19
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Interestingly the engine malfuntion light (mil) is not included in the new items to be checked.
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I though a non working speedo had always been a fail?
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The speedo just had to be present: www.motuk.co.uk/manual_670a.htm
I've only seen a car taken out of the testing station to check the CVs on full lock - not enough speed to check the speedo.
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>>I've only seen a car taken out of the testing station to check the CVs on full lock
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I was at my favourite MoT place lask week and enquired re testing brakes on my AWD X Type. They take it out of the test bay and use a Tapley meter.
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Reading this I am quite glad I bought a basic car. I don't think my car has any additional features which might fail under the new rules. I thought ABS and airbags have been tested for the past two years or so?
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A little yellow fat guy with a seatbelt on ( airbag warning light I think ) was illuminated on the dash of one of my cars for the 140,000 miles or so I had it. I became quite fond of him. Kept meaning to have him turned off but never got around to it. If the car is still going someone will have to deal him the coup de gras now I suppose. Seems a shame really, he's never knowingly done anyone any harm.
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>> he's never knowingly done anyone any harm.
When that came up on my Nissan, it meant the airbags and seat belt pre-tensioners were inactive - fortunately I didn't have a crash before I got it sorted.
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I decided not crashing was the best strategy too !
:-)
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I need to ask a couple of questions about these new regs.
My wife has the same problem as above, her airbag light has been on for the last two MoTs, it's been looked at by the main dealer on each occasion and was unable to fix it and had no real idea what was causing it to come on after had been reset, so does this mean an instant fail for her X reg Polo?
Now my car has it's exhaust light come on after I accidentally over filled it with oil by about 200mls, the overfill was removed but I guess unless I get the light reset it too will be an instant fail under the new regs even though for my diesel there isn't an emissions test as such (the car is running just fine with no change in performance) so it's effectively being failed for having a light on even though there's nothing actually wrong with it.
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@Rudedog, re your wife's little fat yellow guy, dunno if you'd get away with it but how about a judiciously placed neatly cut circle of black insulating tape ( or any sticker really ) stuck on the dash, purely coincidentally of course, right on top of the LFYG...
What the eye can't see the heart can't grieve or something like that !
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Take the bulb out....do I have to teach you how to suck eggs?
Pat
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>> Take the bulb out....do I have to teach you how to suck eggs?
Doesn't work. As the light has to come on for a few seconds when you turn the ignition on and then go out. What you therefore need is to rewire the light with a timer so it comes on for the correct number of seconds and then goes off.
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>> Take the bulb out....do I have to teach you how to suck eggs?
>>
>> Pat
On both my cars the important lights (airbags, ABS, engine management etc) 'self test' at start up and then go off. I suspect that's universal
If they don't light at all then that will be a fail.
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>> When that came up on my Nissan, it meant the airbags and seat belt pre-tensioners
>> were inactive - fortunately I didn't have a crash before I got it sorted.
>>
Perhaps it varies, but airbags will usually still work if the light is on - indeed in PistonHead's discussion on the new MOT rules there's a picture of a car which had its airbag light on and the airbags did deploy when it crashed.
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Handbook clearly states the SRS (supplementary Restraint System) is inactive if the warning light is illuminated.
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>> Reading this I am quite glad I bought a basic car. I don't think my
>> car has any additional features which might fail under the new rules.
>>
>>
Even really old cars can be caught out by some of them. I don't think there is an actual age cut-off point, it depends whether the car had something as an original fitment.
Thus the seat adjuster on my 1967 Landrover has to work. Earlier models didn't have adjustable seats so they are all right.
I read that door open warning lights have to work. The landrover doesn't have one, but the Triumph (1968) does.
Both cars have choke warning lights. The Triumph's is merely on/off. The landrover's has a thermostat so it only comes on when the engine is warm. A pedantic tester might insist on testing it.
My Volvo is pre-August 1992 so isn't subject to a cat test. But it does have a catalyst. Opinions vary as to whether that means it has to work, or merely be present. It also has a diagnostics warning light. This was removed because it is spuriously affected by the LPG.
No one would know whether it originally had a light or not - some did, some didn't.
Testing speedos - surely that shows when testing brakes on a roller? They don't have to test their accuracy, merely that the needle moves?
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The engine/mil/epc exhaust emission light is not part of the new test regs.The airbag light is.If the airbag light can be reset just before the test and it stays out during the test,then it will pass.What happens after you drive away from the test station does not matter.The mot tests the operation of the warning light,not the system .hth
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>> What happens after you drive away from the test station does not matter.
Apart from the slight problem that the vehicle would probably be considered unroadworthy while it were on.
Just like everything else on an MOT test, the fact that it passes on the day and you have a valid MOT does not absolve you of fixing faults which affect roadworthiness that occur between MOTs.
That strategy could go severely Pete Tong if pulled by the plod and they spot the light.
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That's good news about my emissions light (I will get it looked at but I was hoping to wait until it's next service so the car was off the road for as short a period as possible).
My wife's problem is that it has been looked at twice by the main dealer and although the warning light is reset each time it comes back on, they can't find a problem with the airbags themselves so potentially I'll have an MoT failure for the sake of a light.
I can't see how all of these systems can be 'tested' at the station, to me it seems that they will be failing the fact that a light is on NOT that the system it monitors is actually faulty.
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Bad news for my old Mondeo.
I will have to look at the electric drivers seat switches.
A while back the drivers door got stuck in " double locked". I got a local small Ford specialist to sort it.
I suspect they damaged the switches when getting the door card off of a closed door. I investigated / partially dismantled things and found that the switch block did not have sockets on it but a lump of loom and was over £150 so I left it.
As I am the only driver apart from garage lad it was not a problem til now :-(
I guess it is pushing me to scrap a slightly battered but otherwise a good runner.
It has never used any oil and a rebuilt auto box but ho hum who wants a petrol auto saloon these days ?
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Headlamp washers.
I am not sure how the testing of headlamp washers will go.
I have no idea how they are operated on other vehicles but ,as I showed my MoT station,
switch on the headlamps and operate the washers six times and then the headlamp washers will automatically operate once.
Are they expected to RTFM for every make/model or is there a super database ? :-)
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>> Headlamp washers.
>>
>> I am not sure how the testing of headlamp washers will go.
>> I have no idea how they are operated on other vehicles but ,as I showed
>> my MoT station,
>> switch on the headlamps and operate the washers six times and then the headlamp washers
>> will automatically operate once.
>>
>> Are they expected to RTFM for every make/model or is there a super database ?
>> :-)
Some are designed to wash alternate lamps in turn as well. That will confuses them.
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>> Some are designed to wash alternate lamps in turn as well. That will confuses them.
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>>
Then there's the question of when are they part of the test and when can they be ignored? For HID headlights washers are mandatory, for Halogen's they are optional.
Last edited by: VxFan on Mon 8 Apr 13 at 01:40
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>> For HID headlights washers are mandatory.
No they're not, but if fitted then they have to work.
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>
>> I suspect they damaged the switches when getting the door card off of a
>> closed door. I investigated / partially dismantled things and found that the switch block did
>> not have sockets on it but a lump of loom and was over £150 so
>> I left it.
>> As I am the only driver apart from garage lad it was not a problem
>> til now :-(
>> I guess it is pushing me to scrap a slightly battered but otherwise a good
>> runner.
>> It has never used any oil and a rebuilt auto box but ho hum who
>> wants a petrol auto saloon these days ?
15 quids worth of second hand parts, soldering iron and some heat shrink would fix that.
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>> Testing speedos - surely that shows when testing brakes on a roller? They don't have
>> to test their accuracy, merely that the needle moves?
>>
Sincerely hope so...my old Triumph's speedo flaps about within a rough 20mph radius. That's the best you can narrow it down.
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>> Testing speedos - surely that shows when testing brakes on a roller?
My brakes are not tested on rollers but by Tapley meter on a road test so thespeedo is even more relevant .
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The speedo on the Jowett did the ' Westpig Flap ' when I put her back on the road 20 yrs ago after a small rebuild/respray. I just used to take the average between the limits of the flap and call it correct. There was also a lot of vibration from the transmission on the over-run.
Lots of remedies tried including Jubilee clips on the shafts and drilling holes in them and filling with expanding foam to weight them.
Cured eventually when I changed the 12 half inch BSF castle nuts with split pins which joined the shafts from gearbox to rear diff. I re-fitted with locknuts and the job was done !
I've no worries about the MOT, however. She don't not need one now !
Ted
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>> speedo on the Jowett did the ' Westpig Flap '
A hired Ford Cortina 1500 estate way back when had a speedo needle that veered between 90 and 120 over Salisbury Plain.
I concluded that the car could do a bit over 100. Damn good motor it was.
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I hope the Jowett's in good fettle Ted. A proper classic suppressed by Pressed Steel Fisher, the carphounds.
And there was that flat-twin van-like thing whose name I forget. Got a couple of lifts in those in my hitching days. Not a stormer but I'd like one now...
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My father used to own a Morris 1000 convertible which would happily cruise at "Oil" mph.
I can't remember what the speedo read up to, but the car went rather faster than that, the dial lacked a stop at the end and the needle would sit pointing at the oil pressure warning lamp at the bottom for mile after mile.
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>> I can't remember what the speedo read up to, but the car went rather faster
>> than that, the dial lacked a stop at the end and the needle would sit
>> pointing at the oil pressure warning lamp at the bottom for mile after mile.
I had an MAN artic like that at one time, tachograph would only read to 85 mph, from then on you had to use the rev counter.
My Camaro was similar being an 86 model, though in that case the speedo didn't reach a stop pin it just went round a second time, not really sure what speed it maxed out at but quite quick..;)
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>> >>...my old Triumph's speedo flaps about within a rough 20mph radius. That's the
>> best you can narrow it down.
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1) Cable worn or kinked, causing erratic output at speedo end
2) lack of lubrication in the speedo head, causing binding
3) over lubrication in the speedo head (over-greased cable?) causing intermittant grabbing between the rotating magnet and the aluminium disc on the needle-side.
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Mot additionlal items to be checked - -
