My father in law has an 09 reg Nissan Qashqai 1.5 dCi, which he recently booked in to the dealer service department under warranty because he felt the heater (climate control) wasn't getting properly warm.
The dealer had it for the day, and when he went to pick it up, they said that it was normal for a diesel because of the way the heat is drawn from the engine (that's a new one!) and that they'd 'got it up by a couple of degrees, but that's how it is'.
I've just driven the car tonight for the first time, as he wanted my opinion, and frankly this dealership must have been going for 'fob off of the year' award. The heater is pathetic, as in 1970's BMC Mini pathetic. After setting the temperatures on both sides to "HI" and taking the car for a 20 minute fast A-road drive, getting the temperature gauge up to its normal half way point, the air coming out of the vents could best be described as lukewarm. You can turn the temperature dials down to 17°C before the air cools noticeably.
Clearly the dealer needs a word with, and this will happen on Monday, but as they are clearly clueless / incompetent, has anyone else come across this before? Any ideas?
Googling would suggest this fault is very rare.
The heater during last winter, incidentally, was toasty warm, which again the dealer didn't seem to take on board.
Cheers
DP
Last edited by: DP on Fri 10 Dec 10 at 19:17
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Thermostat sounds the simplest thing to change.
-15c at beginning of week - 20/30 mins to defrost car with 12 inch snow cover, then drove about 6 miles before the temp gauge registered as normal.
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>> After setting the temperatures on both sides to "HI" and taking the car for a 20 minute fast A-road drive, getting the temperature gauge up to its normal half way point, the air coming out of the vents could best be described as lukewarm.
What is it like if you give the engine chance to warm up before demanding heat in the cabin? I keep my CC fan speed low as well as the temperature setting (18 deg c) until the temperature gauge is indicating ¼ then turn up temperature to 21 deg c and put the CC on auto. I find this lets the engine warm up quicker, and thus the heating inside the cabin follows suit. If you demand instant heat from the heater then the engine is going to take longer to warm up, along with the heater.
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In this weather, I find my Yaris diesel takes 10 miles to give really hot air... and when it was -11C just a little bit more...
But as it's a Renault engine, anything is possible like the thermostat jammed open.
" After setting the temperatures on both sides to "HI" and taking the car for a 20 minute fast A-road drive"
A method of maximum engine cooling and minimal distance driving I suspect..
Last edited by: madf on Mon 13 Dec 10 at 16:36
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Hello there,
Did you get to the bottom of this problem, as I have this same problem again with the 2009 model diesel.
Many thanks
Linda
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Hi Linda,
No, they never managed to fix it. The dealer had the car for a full day, during which time they changed the thermostat and the control panel, neither of which made any real difference. After that, they started to fob my father in law off with the "they're all like that" line every time he took it in. Their way of dealing with it seemed to be to deny there was anything wrong with it.
After this, and a list of other problems that had no rightful place on a on a car that was barely a year /10,000 miles old, they reached the end of their tether and chopped it in for a Ford C-Max.
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Sounds like a bit of experimenting with the trusted old method of a cardboard, or if you feel flash tinfoil, sheet cut to size and blanking off most of the rad could be on the cards here, if that works then some form of roller blind could be the permanent winter cure..
The cooling fan isn't running full time or too soon is it in your case Linda.
Indeed i don't know what these cars are like but does the aircon come on automatically and does it have a fan that is drawing air through the engine rad from cold?
Sounds like the end of the French connection in the DP family..;)
Last edited by: gordonbennet on Sat 24 Dec 11 at 11:39
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It sounds to me as if the blender flaps in the air distribution box aren't working properly. They may have stuck in the cool position. I don't know the Qashqai system in any detail but most car heater systems work on air blending rather than water valve opening. The problem is that it probably needs half the fascia dismantled to access it and the dealer doesn't want the costs involved.
It may also be worth checking to see if the pollen filter is not blocked, but if you have good airflow from the vents then this is unlikely.
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I would agree with the blending flap stuck theory, could be one of the servo motors which drive them has packed up. I also suspect the dealer is trying to avoid removing the dashboard to access the heater.
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could be one of the servo motors which drive them has packed up.^^
Please tell me thats a wind up Navy, have we got to the stage that run of the mill cars have hidden motors opening airflow flaps now, i give up, back to pick ups.
i thought the silly opening vent routine on XF's was bad enough, still maybe it impresses small boys.
Last edited by: gordonbennet on Sat 24 Dec 11 at 15:28
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How do you think the air direction and temperature control flaps move in a car fitted with climate control, magic? :-)
Last edited by: Old Navy on Sat 24 Dec 11 at 15:33
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The lancer is fitted with the fastest. most sensitive, adaptable intelligent climate control ever
Me.
I operate the buttons and dials far better than any system.
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For what it's worth, the control panel for the heater / climate control on the dash of my Qashqai had to be replaced under warranty as it wasn't working properly. doesn't sound like the same symptoms but might be the same ailment. In my case it randomly selected the directions of airflow, fan speed and temperatures and wouldn't allow a manual over-ride. That all started happening about this time last year in the really cold spell so wasn't really funny on long runs. New control panel fixed it.
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ouldn't allow a manual over-ride
"What are you doing Dave ?"
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Yeah,yeah, and the Lancer uses steam bled from the coal fired radio for heating. :-)
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>> Yeah,yeah, and the Lancer uses steam bled from the coal fired radio for heating. :-)
>>
And you can use the steam to make the tea.
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>climate control, magic? :-)
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Ah well now see i've managed so far to avoid carp like that, and have every intention of doing so for the forseeable unless its a Toyota, not as they are better than anyone else at making them its just they don't abandon their customers the day the warranty runs out.
Never had a moments problem in adjusting the standard three dials to suit or pressing the on/off button for the aircon if fitted, still manage to turn me own lights and wipers on when needed so not quite gaga yet..;)
Don't they love poncy terms, climate control my aerosol.
Last edited by: gordonbennet on Sun 25 Dec 11 at 00:19
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>> How do you think the air direction and temperature control flaps move in a car
>> fitted with climate control, magic? :-)
>>
On an old Talbot Alpine I had, the heater control flaps were all vacuum operated via a myriad of small pipes and valves. Guess how reliable that was?
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>> On an old Talbot Alpine I had, the heater control flaps were all vacuum operated via a >> myriad of small pipes and valves. Guess how reliable that was?
Sweet Jesus in a chariot driven sidecar, I had one of those.
In addition to that, the heater matrix had both the input and output pipes at the same end of the matrix's side tanks and it was mounted at a shallow angle with the edge having the pipework uppermost.
No prizes for guessing what effect that little pig's ear has.
The thing was so ruddy difficult to get at (remove seats, remove console, unbolt dash, disconnect heater box, remove and dismantle to access matrix) that I didn't even bother trying to flush it out and just fitted a new one.
I have to say that I never had any problems with the vacuum flappery, just the silted up matrix giving a wide choice of cold, cold, cold or very nearly cold.
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>> Sounds like a bit of experimenting with the trusted old method of a cardboard....
An offcut of lino works better as it's waterproof.
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>> >> Sounds like a bit of experimenting with the trusted old method of a cardboard....
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>> An offcut of lino works better as it's waterproof.
>>
If the thermostat is working why do you need to blank the radiator? Coolant is not circulated through it if the engine is not up to its normal operating temperature.
An old wives tale from the days of thermo syphon cooling systems without pumps and thermostats.
Last edited by: Old Navy on Sat 24 Dec 11 at 18:25
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I know this is a silly question but has anyone checked the coolant level? If it's low it might only be partially filling the heater matrix. Of course if it has been to a dealer they'll have checked that...won't they?
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>> If the thermostat is working why do you need to blank the radiator?
In the case of the Astra-G, one radiator fitted all engines. Some of the engines were overcooled because of it. Only way to get any heat was to block off the lower part of the radiator in winter - even with a correctly operating thermostat. If the thermostat was goosed though it made matters even worse. To change the thermostat on some engines involved removing the cambelt. Not cheap, and a right PITA. The lino trick was far simpler and cheaper.
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>> In the case of the Astra-G, one radiator fitted all engines. Some of the engines
>> were overcooled because of it.
I just knew there was a good reason why I only ever owned one Vauxhall, poorly designed and built rubbish. One lesson learned rapidly.
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>> I just knew there was a good reason why I only ever owned one Vauxhall,
If you've never owned one, how can you comment on the design and build?
Bit like saying you've never eaten brusels sprouts because you don't like the taste.
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I had a Zafira A until recently, much the same.
Thermostat lasts two years before getting "tired". Warmth is restored by changing it.
The offical part is expensive as they only sell the housing, thermostat and temperature sender as a complete unit. The usual suspects will happily sell you just the thermostat part and that's all I used to change.
Regardless of the rad size, if the engine is overcooled the thermostat is not doing its job.
Last edited by: TeeCee on Wed 27 Mar 13 at 13:59
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Cars used to have water valves for the heater circuit. I'm guessing that all now have a permanently hot heater matrix and just blend hot and cold air.
It should be fairly easy to tell whether the coolant is getting hot, which it will be if the thermostat has been replaced. If the car's still cold with the controls set for heat and the fan's going, then the flaps aren't in the right place. I had a Scorpio with this problem and a reset of the CC system fixed it a couple of times, there was a button pressing routine to do it.
www.fordscorpio.co.uk/ccreset.htm
There might be something similar for the Squashy, it might need plugging in to the diagnostic system to do it, but you'd expect a dealer to do that.
If it's not the control system then a physical jamming of the flap or a motor problem could be to blame. With CC you have a few more bits going on as well with inside and outside temp sensors, air output temp sensors sun sensors etc. If one of those fails it might take somebody with a brain and a bit of patience who can properly interpret fault codes to fix it.
Last edited by: Manatee on Sun 25 Dec 11 at 09:22
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Hi, I see that it's a while since this topic was dicussed but wanted to see if there had been any further developments on the heater issue. I have 1.5 diesel 2007 qashqai and the heater has been poor for some time. Lukewarn air. Then recently there has been a sound of gurgling water moving through pipes in the engine and the heater would intermittently not work at all (would only omit cold air). Main dealer replaced the thermostat but this did not resolve issue. Instead we noticed the temperature guage was showing that the engine was getting really hot and would have boiled if we continued to drive. Returned to main dealer and they no believe the issue is with the head gasket (really expensive to resolve). Just wanted to give you the "heads up" .
Last edited by: VxFan on Thu 8 Mar 12 at 20:47
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>> recently there has been a sound of gurgling water moving through pipes in the engine
>> and the heater would intermittently not work at all (would only omit cold air).
>>
That's a different issue and sounds very much like it is the head gasket.
The orginal problem stated is almost certainly the known and frequently observed downside (dreadfully long time to warm up from cold) to the oft-mentioned "plus" of diesels[1] being more thermally efficient.
[1] Although the worst I ever had was a 2.0 petrol Mk 1 Ford Galaxy. Truly awful in the winter it was. That, in combination with a few other things, give that car my "worst car I ever owned" award.
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Just purchased 2009 Qashqai Tekna 1.5 dci found the heater to be inadequate barely lukewarm after 20 mile journey! been to 2 Nissan main agents and they say "thats the way they are" how has this model been so succesful with an underperforming heater? Hard to believe a 20K+ car would be so poor>
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I would ask them to change the thermostat and see if it improves things.
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Having experienced a weak heater output where the pollen filter had not been changed for four years, I'd try this fix first.
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When a car's engine burns fuel the energy/heat produced goes mainly three ways ~ (a) producing power to move the car, (b) out of the exhaust pipe, and (c) into the coolant. If you want the car to consume a small amount of fuel for the same performance (as in a diesel) then you can expect (b) and (c) to receive only a small amount of energy/heat.
Last edited by: L'escargot on Wed 27 Mar 13 at 07:10
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This happened to the Lexus. It suddenly wouldn't warm up the cabin when I let the engine warm every morning on the driveway. Very irritating when it's well below zero - my fingers were frozen holding the steering wheel. But I noticed that if you rev the engine around 2000, the heater started and it got warm, but back at tickover it was freezing again. I asked a garage bloke. "Top up the damned radiator with water, idiot" he said. And I did, about three cm. And lo and behold, that's what it was. It's back to toasty again. Something to do with it having another radiator in there somewhere and needs to get pressure up - that happens if you rev the engine but needs more water to get the pressure correct. I didn't understand the gubbins either but it worked.
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Hi all, my first time here but I just wanted to post a reply to the original problem. My wife's car had the same issue, nissan quashqai that would only give lukewarm cabin air. I read this forum among others for advice and combined all the replies to fix the problem. For some context, she is Brazilian living in cold old Ireland so no heat in the car was a big issue.
Firstly some tech details. 11 model, 1.5 dci with air con rather than old style heating.
Engine has a priority routing of the coolant to the heater core, the little radiator in the dash that heats the cabin, this engine coolant heats up very fast but the actual main radiator temp. does not get hot for quite a while.
Having eliminated the coolant level as a issue I focused on the heater core. Found it to be blocked by disconnecting the two hoses at the bulkhead and putting two 19 mm hoses onto the ports. I put the garden hose onto the 19 mm hose and had very poor flow on the outlet, next tried compressed air in the reverse flow direction but no good. Finally I filled the core with a mild caustic solution and left for 20 mins and bingo, now she's complaining that it's too hot. I have no idea what was blocking it but it's working now. Hope this helps someone and keep up the posts. Many thanks to you all.
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Welcome to C4P. Good work that man for getting the problem solved; many owners of modern cars wouldn't know where to start. Please stick around!
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Welcome.
Nice to see an old thread resurrected!
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The Vectra cdti takes about 5 miles before it starts to register when real low temps as the heater is the same it gets the heat before the engine.
But when at temp it's fine, on warmer days it's a bit quicker but not by much.
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I find turning down the blower fan and temperature settings until the gauge starts to move improves engine warm up time quite significantly.
What's the point in demanding warmth from the heating system until it's warmed up? It just slows down the process.
edit - just seen this is an old thread, and I made pretty much the same comment further up
Last edited by: VxFan on Thu 19 Mar 15 at 13:52
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My 1995 Pajero will be kicking out warm air in under a mile and very very warm air in 2.5 max'.
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Old thread, but what the heck;
The Landcruiser I use for the school run blows fully hot air in the winter in about 1/2 mile at most.
Ok its not real winter winter, but its cold - 5 to 10 degrees early in the morning.
When I'm up in the Mountains, where it can be properly cold, it still barely makes it out of the village (about 8,000ft up) before its blowing hot.
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>> blows fully hot air in the winter in about 1/2 mile at most.
Has it got some kind of pre heater fitted?
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Not as far as I know. Bog standard 4.0litre ish V6 Petrol.
Reverse down drive, hold on a minute while gates close, drive about 1/2 mile, everything blowing hot.
Last edited by: No FM2R on Wed 15 Apr 15 at 01:04
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Nissan Qashqai - 09 1.5 heater not getting beyond lukewarm - Falkirk Bairn
