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Hi all,long time since I have been here,glad to see the forum is still alive.I have a 2013 CRV 2.2 diesel auto and it’s due for it’s first service under my ownership,had it about 14 months.I am struggling to find a service schedule for it,anybody here had one of these?It’s done 79,000...when does it need belt or chain?.Also the A/C has packed in,it was regassed last year,any common issues?...Cheers...Phil.
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>> Also the A/C has packed in,it was regassed last year,any common issues?...Cheers...Phil.
usual things are lack of use through the winter and the seals dry out and leak. Best to use AC all year round to keep the PAG oil circulating the system.
Or something like corrosion or a stone has attacked the condenser and holed it.
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Firstly it's a chain, they all are of that age. The one service reference I could find for the chain servicing said that it did not need to be replaced. That sounds iffy to me, but it's all I could see.
Finding a service manual online for the North American spec is easy, but damned if I can find a UK spec one.
This isn't great, but it's a starting point I guess.
www.honda.co.uk/cars/owners/fixed-price-service-plan.html
Sorry not to be of more help.
Unless you want one for the LatAm spec in Spanish? That I can do.
Last edited by: No FM2R on Tue 16 Jun 20 at 04:51
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I've the same year crv and have been looking for the same thing. I couldn't find it anywhere, all the other shape ones and those used in places like the middle East and the US are available, but for whatever reason UK diesels servicing schedules aren't available online for whatever reason.
I do the servicing myself so I just use a typical gap between changing things like coolant, filters etc.
Last edited by: sooty123 on Tue 16 Jun 20 at 06:05
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www.brayleys.co.uk/honda/servicing/prices
Click on the little green arrows to see what is in each service.
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Thanks very much for that info,on the face of it there doesn't seem a lot to be done actually.Bit puzzling why so little specific info available...Cheers...Phil.
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I have a 2012 CRV EX Auto bought new.
Serviced every 12 months on the dot at Honda franchise for 5 years.
Wheels off brake fettling every 24 months - disassembled, grease, adjust - my Indie charges 1 hour labour.
Honda franchise servicing brakes get a squirt of brake cleaner only - calipers seize / discs corrode if not looked after.
When the car was 6 years old I had the full monty - major service, all fluids changed, all filters. Engine flushed, Auto fluid changed, 4wd rear "diff" changed, coolant replaced, brake fluid changed................
At my Indie prices it was some £540 as he used all Honda parts, fluids & filters (oil was Shell IIRC)
Year 7 was modest service £214 inc MoT or thereabouts inc new Honda pads on front.
Next service should be modest around £180 inc MoT.
No repairs at all in 7.5 years apart from Battery & airbags (foc Honda recall)
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Hi Falkirk Bairn,
Thanks for that.I will be taking it to an Indie I think,the major service you had done,is that as per Hondas service schedule or was it a peace of mind thing?.Mine is the diesel auto,it has been serviced but with it being a used buy I don't know how well.Only thing I have noticed is that the brakes are not very keen?
Do you like the vehicle?
Cheers....Phil.
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I love the car - it has it's problems - asthmatic (engine is asthmatic) and it likes a drink (30mpg at best). 100% reliable - swallows 5 people & all luggage /trip to tip etc etc
The Full Monty SERVICE was my idea in conjunction with my Indie. Brakes every 2 years at say £60 is a lot cheaper than sticking calipers & knackered discs.
If you have a full set of Honda stamps it has not been fully looked after - brakes, back axle drive will not have been looked at.
Look at the colour of your auto fluid - change if not pink.
Handbrake are mini shoes in the disks - auto adjust but the auto adjust gums up if not looked at for 6 years.
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The FRV autobox is very similar to the petrol CRV auto - if you drain the 'box 3 litres comes out but about 5 litres remains inside.
That's why Honda schedule the first "change" at 75k then every 37.5k thereafter.
I've been doing it myself every 20k (changing ~35% of the fluid each time) using Honda ATF.
Dunno if the diesel slushbox is much different.
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>> The FRV autobox is very similar to the petrol CRV auto
>> - if you drain the 'box 3 litres comes out but about 5 litres remains inside.
>>
The same with my X type and NO filter to change. It just has a strainer inside somewhere.
Two changes of ATF at a service is reccommended.
I intend to get 99 per cent of the ATF changed by dialysis when I find a local place that does it.
I wonder why it is not commonly available. It was quite a topic on Land Rover forums.
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>>Two changes of ATF at a service is reccommended.
I did four in quick succession on my Forester [good as a flush?] I did the auto trans filter too while I was at it
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>> >>Two changes of ATF at a service is reccommended.
I should have said " after specified mileage ( from 40K onwards ) it is best to get it done."
>> I did four in quick succession on my Forester [good as a flush?]
My understandind is that the majority of the fluid stays in the torque converter so the dilution approach should help but the dalysis way is the "dogs whatsits"
Mega flush was the brand but Wynns and others now have similar machines.
The process is simple and uses the cars normal fluid circulation to swap the old fluid out and the new in. this ensures that no external pump is employed so no over pressure possible.
The extensive youtube item has been zapped.
Another type.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=f237578_sos
>> the auto trans filter too while I was at it
Well worth it if your car has one / you can access it.
X types do not have one. Just one of the cheap aspects of the car like other transmisiion items " sealed for life":-(
It pays to read the forums on the specific model to learn the truth.
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>>It pays to read the forums on the specific model to learn the truth.
Absolutely, I've gleaned lots of info from the various Subaru forums over the years.
I changed the ATF in my old Forester 4 times mainly because it was discoloured and there was a rubbing noise (brake bands?) when selecting drive.
It never gave me any trouble though, and was still going strong when I part exed it for a CRV.
My XV (CVT) doesn't have a dipstick (apart from me) but that goes to the main dealer in Devon whom I trust, and doesn't charge like the light brigade!
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Hi all,I had the aircon tested and re-gassed again,no leakage was measured so fingers crossed on that.This is the first time I have had the car serviced so no idea what it needed,turns out it needs discs/pads all round and full service.A decent local indie has quoted me about £730 for this work,as much as it hurts spending this kind of money on servicing I have accepted it,does this seem reasonable??...Cheers...Phil.
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I would ask for his list of what a "full service" actually is, including parts, before agreeing to pay anything.
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It’s called a premium service ????...apparently it includes all filters,engine flush,0-30 oil,strip down and inspect all brakes..£260.The rest is for the discs and pads.
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I'd go through it line by line.
e.g. You're being charged for a brake strip down and inspection when they've already said they're going to replace them? Paying for two strip downs?
Also, whilst I am no longer familiar with UK labour rates, £500 Parts & labour does seem rather a lot.
Can you telephone someone and ask for a quote? If it's in the same ballpark then fair enough, but if it's wildly different?
Having said that, if you're going to keep the car and this particularly indie makes you comfortable,then perhaps it's worth it for peace of mind.
Last edited by: No FM2R on Fri 26 Jun 20 at 20:43
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I would respectfully suggest that you have a look at Eurocarparts. Pop your reg number /make model in and have a look for yourself at the price of the brake parts to get an idea.
As a benchmark I generally use Pagid (there are a lot cheaper alternatives on the site) due to quality and they come coated in a silver paint finish which looks better through alloys - for a while.
Don't take the first price. ECP regularly (more often than DFS sales) have offers of up to 50% discount,
current one is 45%, on brake parts which makes a big hole in the final tally.
GSF car parts do something similar.
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Carpart4less, same company are even cheaper but have less choice and are delivery only.
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I had rear discs and pads done on my Ampera earlier this year at an indy and it came to about £190 which was in the right ballpark for this area (Berkshire) but I know my daughter didn't pay that much in Birmingham.
I usually get the other cars I am responsible for serviced and MOTd at Halfords at a package price and the most expensive is major 24m service and MOT for £275. I've not found fault with them but there are probably cheaper indies. (I had a sorry tale with an indy with daughter's Fiesta documented elsewhere here which cost me many hundreds of £££s - actually through using pattern parts - though that wouldn't stop me doing it again)
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>> It’s called a premium service ????...apparently it includes all filters,engine flush,0-30 oil,strip down and inspect
>> all brakes..£260.The rest is for the discs and pads.
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The total for al those bits (pads, disks, filters, oil is 330 quid MAX
400 quid labour is a lot.
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2 yrs ago I paid £500+ to my Indie for full service, all fluids, all filters, wheels off brake fettling.
£180 parts IIRC and £250 is labour (4+ hours) +VAT. All Honda parts, fluids etc apart from the Shell Oil.
I thought it was good value - I have paid Franchised dealers £250 for little more than an oil change & a squirt of brake fluid cleaner - waited for the car - under 2 hours - it seemed sometimes waiting for the invoice was longer than the service!
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Hi Zero,I couldn’t agree more.
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Thanks for all your comments,I don’t know if it’s me being out of touch with how much stuff costs these days but I have to agree with Zero,it seems excessive.However I did get a few quotes and the one I have mentioned is kinda in the middle,I notice Honda themselves want over £600 pounds just for the brakes!
My impression of garages recently is that a lot of them rely heavily on social media advertising with all the nice reviews and when you visit them they are basically just fast small fast fit centres.This kind of service work my car needs must be really straight forward and with a high mark up which irks me a bit,but when you cannot do the work yourself you are kinda stuck.
I do know of a real old school,hole in the wall type outfit,I might try them lol!
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What you consider as 'service work' more often these days is bare minimum. Cars are pretty reliable and generally parts run until they break.
Preventative maintenance is an 'old skool' concept where we ran old cars and kept them going by fixing stuff cheap. A lot of us learned basic maintenance skills that way.
As an example I have one of the the daughters Picanto on the drive where it has been since Shielding lockdown - 63 plate, 50K miles. The windscreen has cracked in the heat we have been having which eminated from a chip right behind a parked wiper. But that's a separate issue.
I'm currently giving it the once over in the brake dept which I fully refurbished about 4 years ago. The discs are a bit corroded. They would probably clean up but I wanted nicely silver painted Pagid discs behind the recently refurbished wheels.
As all the caliper mounting brackets are off I file all the rusty crud out of the grooves which cause the pads to stick. Pistons have been extended, the dust covers pulled back where it can be seen that corrosion is starting slowly to eat backward under the covers. Get the rust off, treat with rust cure and assemble with the correct grease. This will both extend the life of those items and maintain efficiency.
Thing is that's home fettling for you not something a normal garage will undertake. I've spent a good day on this and is probably not what you would wish to pay someone for at garage rates.
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>> Pistons have been extended, the dust
>> covers pulled back where it can be seen that corrosion is starting slowly to eat
>> backward under the covers. Get the rust off, treat with rust cure and assemble with
>> the correct grease.
You used rust cure on the pistons? I'd have expected the surface to be to messed up.
>> Thing is that's home fettling for you not something a normal garage will undertake. I've
>> spent a good day on this and is probably not what you would wish to
>> pay someone for at garage rates.
>>
I've aksed both a dealer and indie and they wouldn't service the brakes on a Merc I don't use much - I think the indie would have done it if I'd insisted, but he made it clear enough he didn't want to. I reckon it's because the profit on the parts is as much as the labour charge and there's less cleaning when fitting new parts.
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Hi Bill Payer,I think you are spot on there.As I mentioned before,it seems like all garages large or small are basically fast fit centres now.
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No Bill. The rust was not actually on the working part of the piston. That would render it US.
The rust was in the groove where the rubber boot sits on the piston but given time and lack of cleaning and protective lube creep it would up onto that surface.
The other parts that are neglected are the sliders. Its common for these to seize causing the pads not to release or cause them to wear prematurely at a strange angle. All cured with some cleaning, emery/wire brush and lube.
As I say preventative maintenance. All those components are subject to a very harsh environment.
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>> The other parts that are neglected are the sliders. Its common for these to seize
>> causing the pads not to release or cause them to wear prematurely at a strange
>> angle.
Yes, exactly that happened on daughter's Jazz - inside rear pad wore until the acoustic wear indicator alerted us there was a problem. It was going into the dealer anyway for airbag replacement and they did a visual health check and said it was fine.
Quite why the acoustic indicator wasn't noticeable to them was baffling to me, and the service manager when the car was taken back.
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For some reason rear brakes seem to be more susceptible to these issues.
Last edited by: Fullchat on Tue 30 Jun 20 at 12:51
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>> For some reason rear brakes seem to be more susceptible to these issues.
Not so much brake effort up rear, the pads don't wear so move less in sliders,, rear brakes dont get warm and dried out, front wheels flex ever so slightly during steering pushing pads out away from disks. Lazy b*****s those rear pads, get stuck in their armchairs.
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Which is why I do a 'hard stop' from 50MPH or so every now and then (after checking the mirror).
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>> Which is why I do a 'hard stop' from 50MPH or so every now and
>> then (after checking the mirror).
Might have been a Citroen thing associated with hydropneumatic suspension but the thinking with the BX etc was that if you mostly drove 'solo' you might want some ballast in the boot so the brake system delivered pressure to the rears.
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>> Not so much brake effort up rear, the pads don't wear so move less in
>> sliders,, rear brakes dont get warm and dried out, front wheels flex ever so slightly
>> during steering pushing pads out away from disks. Lazy b*****s those rear pads, get stuck
>> in their armchairs.
We had exactly that about a year ago with the Berlingo. Neither of us noticed any burning smell or the disproportionate amount of brake dust on the alloys. Only apparent after it made a noise.
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Dealer told me to get the jet wash behind the rear wheels and give the calipers a good blast. Hmmm...
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Wheels off fettling the brakes every 2 years seems to work for me.
My 2 youngest sons have another solution - changing cars every 18 months/ 2 years.
An expensive habit.
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Honda CR-V III - Service schedule? - VxFan
