Ok, first issue of the new car...
On cold start the car idles badly and clouds of blue smoke if you rev it to clear it but it does then rev evenly.
The turbo seems almost non-existant for the first 5 miles or so, gets much better after that.
On long hills, Cornish style, you get an acrid smell, similar to burning plastic which goes not long after you have gone over the crest - it seems to be long periods of high load cause it.
I am not sure if it is a characteristic but when the turbo starts to wake up at about 1500 rpm there is a loud hissing noise similar to letting air out of a tyre, far louder than any turbo whistle ive ever known and it disappears abruptly at 1900 rpm when the engine seems to pick up. Sometimes it almost sounded like a high frequency heat shield rattle and the exhaust also goes through a very boomy moment around 1700 rpm which made me wonder if maybe a joint is starting to give up.
None of these thinsg were present in the first week I owned the car and it seems a 300 mile shakedown has brought them up.
My only real thought was that a decent injector cleaner might be worth a try as it is a low miles and did alot of cold runs with the previous owner.
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>>On long hills, Cornish style, you get an acrid smell, similar to burning plastic which goes not long after you have gone over the crest - it seems to be long periods of high load cause it.
That would seem like a slipping clutch to me. What happens if you briefly dip the clutch and let it back with a bang whilst it's pulling hard in top gear. If it slurs I'd be looking at clutch adjustment (if possible).
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For the poor running after start up, the first thing I would look at would be leaks in the low pressure fuel pipes, the fuel filter seal, and leaks in any priming bulb / pump. What sort of fuel system does this car have?, is it an electronically controlled injector pump, unit injector, or, common rail?
For the burning smell, look for oil leaks onto the exhaust some way down the pipe - where it only gets hot when the engine is working hard.
For the hissing noise, if there's an intercooler, check it for damage.
Also check the condition of any air pipes which connect to the inlet manifold - particularly if any of them connect to the turbo wastegate.
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It is common rail.
I know the fuel filter was changed recently, I checked extensively for leaks and it is bone dry although I cant see the manifold to check that but the downpipe onwards is ok as far as I can see.
No idea on the intercooler - assuming it has one what would actually cause the noise?
The engine bay is a bit packed, but I checked as many pipes as I could and couldnt find anything that looked amiss, it did have the camblet done when I bought it so they did disturb a fair bit, I read somewhere that air pipes can work loose after being disturbed during cambelt changes but again, nothing obvious.
One thing I did notice is that the coolant level was low but I topped it up and it hasnt dropped in 500 miles.
I cant smell any diesel smells in the engine bay at all so I am hoping no leaks.
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>>I cant smell any diesel smells in the engine bay at all so I am hoping no leaks.
The problem is you're really looking for air getting in rather than diesel getting out. As you might imagine, this isn't always easy-fitting a temporary clear pipe and watching for bubbles is sometimes the only way to find these problems.
BT's clutch suggestion is a good one - is there any free play at the pedal?
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>>BT's clutch suggestion is a good one - is there any free play at the pedal?<<
Well I find the clutch feel a bit strange, it is very abrupt but it did plenty of proper hill starts without slipping. When I first got it there was a bit of judder but since my holiday and the stack of miles that judder has gone completely. Not been aware of any free play.
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If it's a cable operated clutch, then, the pedal shouldn't restrict the clutch release. Traditionally, this meant that here should be a small amount of play.
If the clutch mechanism is hydraulic, ignore all of that, as it will self adjust.
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Surely this is pop it back to the dealer and say "fix it *warranty* " time?
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It is and I am, but I like to be informed and modern diesels are something of a mystery to me.
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Having been castigated elsewhere in this forum for not being an expert, I dare to wonder if it could be the EGR.
Last edited by: Zero on Sun 22 Sep 13 at 18:24
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Could well be, I have seen it mentioned with regards to the symptoms. Modern cars, ugh, too complicated by half.
On the plus side it is still proving stupidly economical so whatever is wrong with it isnt holding it back that much.
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Temp is fine, isnt using any oil, oil is clean and it has done 2000 miles in two weeks which I think would have popped the HG if it was an issue, it worked very hard.
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Guy from Hyundai just collected my car, he immediately said he thought it was most likely injectors at the very least but also that it could be cumulative niggles due to low miles, he agreed it doesnt do them any good. He also said the lack of turbo when stone cold wasnt normal but could be down to the same things.
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Glad you've got that warranty.
Last time i had a set of Diesel car injectors overhauled it cost me £40 for all 4, i doubt that would cover it any more..;)
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Indeed and best to claim early on the warranty, they tend to be more willing to help.
It could be any number of things, that is where the expense will be, investigations.
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This soon after you've bought the car do remember that the Warranty is for the benefit of the dealer, not you.
They are legally liable for such a fault. If they wish to foist it onto the warranty that's up to you/them but...
Don't get caught out by an excess.
Don't get caught out by finding that there is a max total limit for number of, or £value of, claims in a single year and this came out of it, when it should have been the issue of the dealer, not your warranty.
Or it may all be fine, but optimism and faith can be expensive on occasion.
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>>Don't get caught out by an excess.
Don't get caught out by finding that there is a max total limit for number of, or £value of, claims in a single year and this came out of it, when it should have been the issue of the dealer, not your warranty.<<
It is a Hyundai backed manufacturer approved scheme rather than an off the shelf scheme so I am not too worried. I have looked in the policy booklet and I dont think I have much to worry about, the workshop foreman who collected my car said that this soon after purchase there was no question about whether they would fix it regardless of the issue.
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Maybe it wasn't the best of ideas to purchase a 9 year old common rail turbo diesel.
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>>Maybe it wasn't the best of ideas to purchase a 9 year old common rail turbo diesel.<<
Well maybe but you only live once. My strong feeling is that the problems are due to the car having previously been a cold run, low miles car, something the foreman agreed could well be the cause.
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Good luck with it anyway, you seem pleased with the car other than the (hopefully) minor probs.
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Yeah I am, even with its issues it wasnt bad to drive, it has the comfort I was after and with the toy count it is far posher than what I usually buy. It has that likeability factor, nothing complicated, just functional.
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You didn't put any of that Cornish fuel in it by any chance I suppose.
:)
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Just heard back from Hyundai. Apparently it needs new glowplugs and the clutch plate has a fault - she was going to quote me on price until I said 'dont they check these things before sale, it is only 3 weeks since I took delivery' to which she replied ' I am so sorry, there wont be any charge, I will contact sales to discuss it'. I expect sales will wimper at more expense on the car but if it is a naff clutch it wont be a new problem and I reported it only two weeks after delivery.
Not sure about the rest though, the foreman is driving it back as we speak, it has to go back in at a later date as parts not in stock.
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Oh dear. To quote you, FoR, when you found my Laguna thread: "Cant believe ive been missing this comedy show."
;-)
Hope it gets sorted out, I'm sure it will.
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:-)
I dont mind, the ones who really arent laughing are the ones paying for it and I will fight tooth and nail to make sure it isnt me, I have been around the trade too long to carry much sympathy, most dealers will empty your bank account given half a chance.
When you sound like you know what you are talking about they tend not to fob you off, even if I blag my way through on the technical stuff, asking alot of questions always spooks them abit.
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Right just spoke to foreman, he said clutch itself is fine but he said he things some springs on the clutch plate have weakened and they will sort that. The blue smoke is due to two glowplugs being completely shot and they will be replacing the whole set, all FOC. Good stuff.
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Nice to have bought from a dealer who'll play ball.
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>> Right just spoke to foreman, he said clutch itself is fine but he said he
>> things some springs on the clutch plate have weakened and they will sort that. The
>> blue smoke is due to two glowplugs being completely shot and they will be replacing
>> the whole set, all FOC. Good stuff.
Its a common rail, its summer, it does not really need the glow plugs and if it does only to start. It in no way goes to explaining the lack of turbo feel - Other stuff is lurking in there somewhere.
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Glowplugs? - I am with Zero on that.
>>>Right just spoke to foreman, he said clutch itself is fine but he said he things some springs on the clutch plate have weakened and they will sort that<<<
Assuming that it was a gearbox out job, seems a false economy not to do the clutch - even if you have to fund it. If ' springs on the cluch plate have weakened' the clutch is not fine! I think he has been talking to sales who presumably pick up the tab? Perhaps the workshop has no work and are willing to some labour only jobs?
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My feeling is that they will prob do the clutch, as you say, it would be odd not to as it is mainly labour rather than parts. What he meant was that the clutch was not about to fail but he also said it 'wasnt right'. No telling what they will find when they crack it open, they will have it for two days though.
They ran a diagnostic on it, checked everything and it is all within normal ranges, I will bung some fuel cleaner through to see if that makes a difference - any recommendations?
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I know that I am about to get shouted down by the "all fuel is the same" brigade, but if it was mine I would be running it on shell v power nitro (or whatever it is called now) for the next few tankfulls to help un-gum anything the low mileage & short cold runs may have bunged up.
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>> I know that I am about to get shouted down by the "all fuel is
>> the same" brigade, but if it was mine I would be running it on shell
>> v power nitro (or whatever it is called now) for the next few tankfulls to
>> help un-gum anything the low mileage & short cold runs may have bunged up.
Yes so would I, along with some other stuff. Wouldn't expect it to fix something as obviously amiss as this tho.
Last edited by: Zero on Thu 26 Sep 13 at 14:15
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This is good stuff, but you may want to get the garage to do the job:
www.forteuk.co.uk/product.php?id=64/Diesel_IMV_Cleaner
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They are doing the clutch and glowplugs, all booked in, the sales dept said that they would cover any costs that the warranty didnt cover so good on them, they could have tried a wriggle on a clutch and they chose not to.
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Hyundai Elantra - 04 2.0 Rough running when cold etc - bathtub tom
