I am part way through helping daughter replace 20m run of feather edge fencing. The easy bit has been done, with existing concrete posts, brackets and all arris rails in place. I have conflicting advice from builder friends on the use of a nail gun for fixing the overlapping boards. I have the opportunity to borrow for a short period a Paslode 1st fix nail gun, and use 51mm or 63mm) galvanised nails .
However builder friend, owner of nail gun thinks it will be too powerful for the job. He regularly uses it for loft extensions. framing, and tile battens, so his reservations have to be respected, but he thinks a 2nd fix brad nailer most suitable, or just use galvanised nails and a hammer. Other people think a 1st fix nailer is more suited the task.
Anybody here used either or both?
PS1 FE boards will be overlapped by about 15mm with the single nailing through the overlap section.
PS2 It adds up to about 950 nails so manual hammering risks RSI. At least CV restrictions suggest working in the outdoors should be ok:)
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Hammerring will shake everything up.
I would use self drilling screws, with a power screwdriver.
8o)
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I too am with Neil.
Builders use nail guns for speed, Time is money and nails is cheap. If you are not doing it for a living, I would use screws.
Done some fencing repairs after the last two storms, hammering would have loosened up an older fence. Screwed it.
Last edited by: Zero on Mon 16 Mar 20 at 09:02
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Many years ago I used to sell Hilti nail guns. These guided the nail in by captive piston, not by firing them as projectiles. The shock from the right nail gun is less than manual hammering. While screws will be low impact it would be slow and I don't recall seeing a professional fencer use anything other than nails.
I think Sherlock is right it's a question of getting the right gun. My own knowledge is way out of date but if the one he can borrow is too powerful it would be worth getting advice from a good hire shop.
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If the nail is fired in too deep then it tears the wood surface which leaves the it open to water and potential rot, might mean you'll have to go over with a splash of preservative.
Hopefully you can turn down the power of the gun to match the job in hand, obviously good quality galvanized nails are a must.
Yes screws allow for future repairs but I would have thought to cost will be higher I would for the number to cover a decent fence run.
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You can buy screw guns, I own one. Not that mine is much use to you this far away, but anyway.
Damned good it is. I bought it from Screwfix a few years ago. The screws come on a long strip and feed through pretty easily. Bit fiddly to get used to, but really great once you do.
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>> You can buy screw guns, I own one. Not that mine is much use to
>> you this far away, but anyway.
>>
>> Damned good it is. I bought it from Screwfix a few years ago. The screws
>> come on a long strip and feed through pretty easily. Bit fiddly to get used
>> to, but really great once you do.
Does that smack them in or screw them in?
When we eventually start getting this house built, I plan to put a lot of extra noggins into the frame before the plasterboard goes up.
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>>Does that smack them in or screw them in?
Screws them in. With enthusiasm. So much enthusiasm that the first few tend to go too far in. Took me about 10 or 12 screws to get the hang of it and then you just take it steady and rhythmically. More haste leads to less speed, or whatever the saying is.
b***** quick it is, and strong. A massive labour saver; a couple of seconds of zero effort as opposed to the pain of the manual approach.
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>> When we eventually start getting this house built, I plan to put a lot of
>> extra noggins into the frame before the plasterboard goes up.
>>
Essential for ceilings.
Drywall screws self drill, and magnetic chuck gives you a free hand. Set the torque on the screwdriver and it stops without damaging the board.
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As daughters do - she went her own way, using a first fix style electric nail gun, which a neighbour had offered, complete with a stock of free consumables. Using brad nail/pins that were thinner and shorter than I would have chosen. Only split one board out about 300!
Having looked at the screw gun route, I think I would have gone that way. Never mind when it all needs re-doing, I will do it with screws and 'told you so'.
Thanks for the advice.
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>> Never mind when it all needs re-doing, I will do it with screws and 'told you so'.
If it falls apart in the wind the wood will split/break.
Now it is all "fixed in place" why not take the screw gun and screw it when it is in place.
It should not take that long.
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DIY Query - Fencing - neiltoo
